


JIlIBRARY OF CONGRESS J! 



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For Sale, by the Publisher of this Work, 

ELEGANT MINIATURE EDITIONS OF THE FOLLOWING 
WORKS. 

(Price One Dollar.) 

R O K E B Y, 

A POEM— By Walter Scott, Esq. 
(Price 4 Dollars 50 Cents in boards) 

SCOTT'S POETICAL WORKS, 

Five Volwnes — "jjith Plates. 

(Price 624: Cents in boards.) 
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Including THE LADY OF THE WRECK, and BROAD GRINS. 

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LIBER FACETIARUM, 

Being a Collection of Curious and Interesting" Anecrlotes. 



JUST PUBLISHED, 

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HERIOT'S TRAVELS IN CANADA, 



" We turned to the volume which professes to give very ample 
information concerning such a country as this, with no ordinary 
degree of interest. The author possessed considerable advanta- 
ges for the execution of his task; having resided in the country 
for several years in an official situation; and, being endowed 
with a talent for drawing, and consequently with habits of obser- 
ving and admiring the picturesque scenery of natiu-e. This vo- 
lume contains much less than we desired, or, perhaps expected, 
of original matter; but, it presents us with at least, a tolerable 
summary of the present state of knowledge, enriched with some 
additional facts respecting the British possessions in Canada. 

His apparent respect for religious truth, desei-ves honourable 
mention; his remarks generally indicate a sensible and benevo- 
lent mind. His descriptions, and delineations, are tolerably, 
though not always minutely accurate." Eclectic Review. 

*' Mr. Heriot has divided his work into two parts. The first 
contains the result of his personal observations on the picturesque 
scenery of the St. Lawrence; to this he has added some account 
of the climate, productions, and commerce of the counti-y: the 
manners and characters of the inhabitants of the domiciliated In- 
dians, and of those tribes which occupy or frequent situations oa 
the borders of the great lakes. This part is distinguished by a 
geogi aphical minuteness, which one rarely finds in a book of Tra- 
vels; no mountain raises its head unnoticed, every bend of the 
river is marked, every enlargement and conti'action measured. 

On the whole, we certainly think respectably of Mr. Heriot's 
Work: a considerable portion of the matter it contains is collect- 
ed from extraneous sources, some of them very accessible and 
well known; still, however, a mass of information is presented to 
the reader, which will hardly fail to interest and amuse him." 

Aikin's Review. 

" Another work of merit will be found in Mr. Heriot's * Tra- 
vels through the Canadas;' a residence in which, for a series of 
years, afforded the author opportunities, not only of entering mi- 
nutely into the civil and-domestic history of the provinces, but of 
viewing nature in her wildest forms, and of witnessing the modes 
of life pursued by many of the tribes which are so ^numerously 
scattered through the extensive regions of America. 

*' Altogether we deem it one of the most curious publications 
that has of late appeai-ed.'* Monthly Magazine. 



TRAVELS 



THROUGH 



THE CANADAS, 



CONTAINING 

A DESCRIPTION OF THE PICTURESQUE SCENERY 

ON SOME OF THE RIVERS AND LAKE3; 

with an account of the 

PRODUCTIOJVS, COMMERCE, A^B IJYffJBlTJJSTTS 
OF THOSE PROVIJ\rCES. 



y 



BY GEORGE HERIOT, ESQ. 

Depicty Post Master General of British North America. 






PHILADELPmA: 
PUBLISHED BY M. Gi^'IRJE.Y 

NO. 122, MARKET STREET. 
1813. 

U6 




,H54 



Si • 






PREFACE. 



The first part of the following work was writ- 
ten with the design of conveying an idea of some 
of the picturesque scenery of the Saint Law- 
rence, at once the largest and most wonderful 
body of fresh waters on this globe. 

Numbers of tributary streams, some of which 
are of immense magnitude, disembogue them- 
selves into this gigantic flood, which, from 
its principal source, Lake Superior, to its 
junction with the ocean, parts with none of its 
waters, but rolls thither all that it receives. 

The restless impetuosity of many of these 
streams has furrowed up the surface of the land, 
and produced objects of stupendous grandeur. 
Several of these awful and sublime operations of 
nature, have hitherto been visited by a small por- 
tion only of civilized men. Her most wild fea- 
tures, her most striking and attractive charms, 
are frequently concealed in the midst of unfre- 
quented deserts. 

A2 



VIII CONTENTS. 

employed in the commerce: produce of that 
branch. Island of Newibundland: Eskimaux,the 
only natives seen there: account of that race of 
men. Original discovery of Newfoundland: har- 
bour of Saint John: scaffolds: the town: sterility of 
soil: uninviting climate: colonization prohibited: 
importance in a political view: islands of ice: 
Saint Pierre and Miquelon: Cape Breton. 27 

CHAPTER III. 

Gulph of Saint Lawrence, Prince Edward's is- 
land. Bird isles. Chaleur's bay: its commerce, 
and that of Gaspe: state of agriculture: route 
to the capital: perforated rock: the Ganet: 
mouth of the great river: Anticostl: wild as- 
pect presented by the coasts on either side the 
river. River Saguenay: waterfall: boldness of 
shores: immense depth: king's posts: account 
of the mountaineers; Malbay: Coudres. Saint 
Paul's bay: Camourasca: Island of Orleans. 48 

CHAPTER IV. 

Quebec: description of that city: romantic situa- 
tion: natural strength: religious orders, and 
their establishments: ship-building: interesting 
scene displayed from point Levi: extensive and 
grand landscape presented from the heights to 
the westward of the garrison. River Mont- 
morenci: natural steps: sublime waterfall: basin, 
and its strata: description of the fall as seen 
from the coast of the Saint Lawrence. 74. 



CONTENTS, IX 

CHAPTER V. 

Jeune Lorette: domiciliated natives: mode of 
dancing. The Saint Charles: cascades on that 
river. The Chaudiere: description of its fall: 
appearance in winter. Island of Orleans: views 
from thence: soil. North coast of the Saint 
Lawrence, Cape Tourment. River Saint Anne: 
its waterfalls: lower fall described. La Puce: 
romantic falls of that little river: various land- 
scapes. Lake Saint Charles: picturesque com- 
binations. 92 

CHAPTER VI. 

Country to the westward of Quebec. Lake Cal- 
viere. The Jacques Cartier : romantic scenery 
which it displays. Town of three rivers. Lake 
Saint Peter. Town of William Henry. River 
Chambly. Island of Montreal: religious or- 
ders, and their establishments: view from the 
summit of the mountain. Indian village of the 
Sault Saint Louis: La Chine: Lake St. Louis: 
cascades: rapids of the Cedars: of the coteau 
Du Lac: Lake Saint Francis: cascades of the 
Long Sault: multitude of isles. 1Q9 

CHAPTER YII. 

Description of Kingston in Upper Canada: lake 
Ontario: bay of Quinte: excellence of its soil: 



X CONTENTS. 

Toronto, or York, the capital: Burlington bay: 
river Onondago: romantic cascades: Genesee 
river: waterfall: forts and town of Niagara: su- 
perior advantages enjoyed by Settlers on the 
banks of the Saint Lawrence: rapid increase of 
population, and prosperous state of the pro- 
vince: Queenstown: the whirlpool: stupen- 
dous majesty of the falls of Niagara: cascades: 
village of Chippawa. 142 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Sublime subject of the falls further pursued. Lake 
Erie: Amherstburg: the Detroit: Sandwich: old 
town of Detroit: beauty and fertility of the 
country. River and lake of St. Claire: La 
Tranche, or Thames: settlements on its borders. 
Lake Huron: Bay of Thunder: Michilimakinac: 
Lake Michigan: Green Bay: inhabitants: Saint 
Joseph: cascades of Saint Mary. Address of 
the Indians: ancient Hurons, and other native 
Tribes. Lake Superior: remarkable transpa- 
rency of its waters: grand portage; new estab- 
lishment on the Kamanistigua. 181 

CHAPTER IX. 

Commerce of Canada: fur trade: paper money: 
seigneuries: rights of their proprietors: mode- 
rate appointments of colonial officers: mal-admi- 
nistration of finance during the French govern- 
ment: state of Canada at its conquest: progres- 



CONTENTS. XI 

sive improvement: revenue: yearly equipment 
and transport in the fur trade: voyageurs: har- 
diness and mode of life: difficulties of naviga- 
tion on the Outaouas river: romantic waterfalls: 
portages. 220 

CHAPTER X. 

Former state of colonial government. Introduc- 
tion of the criminal code of England. Quebec 
Bill. New constitution: sketch of that system. 
Division of Canada into two provinces; and of 
these into counties: advantages of Canadian 
settlers: state of society: manners: character of 
the habitants, or landholders: mode of clearing- 
lands: acquisition of property: seigneuries: pro- 
duce of soils: agriculture. Upper Canada: cold, 
and causes of its long domination: travelling in 
f winter: roads: houses. 256 



TRAVELS, 



<jXC, 



CHAPTER I. 

j^zores—'Origlnal discovery — romantic appearance-^** 
island of Saint Michael — Ponta del Gada — valley of 
Furno — cavern of Boca de Inferno — gulph of Sete 
Cidades — Culture — Productions of the country-^ 
Amenity of situation— Island of Pico — View from 
the summit of the Peak — Influence produced on the 
mind by positions of extraordinary elevation-^^ 
Height of the Peak — State of thermorneter — Gran^ 
-deur of that mountain when viewed from the sea* 

IN compliance with a promise which the au- 
thor made to some friends, previous to his de- 
parture from England, he has been induced to 
write an aqcount of his travels. As a detailed 
journal of the occurrences of a vo} age would ' e 
no less tedious than uninteresting, he has confined 
himself to a description of such islands, and parts 
of the continent of North America, as have ialien 
iviihin the limits of his observation. 

The ship, in which he sailed, having touched 
B 



14 THE AZORES. 

at the Azores on her passage to Canada, an op- 
portunity was afforded him of visiting the islands 
of St. Michael and Pico. 

The Azores are situated in the Atlantic Ocean, 
nearly at an equal distance from Europe and A- 
merica, extending between twenty- five and thir- 
ty two degrees of west longitude, and thirty-se- 
ven and forty degrees of north latitude. 

They were discovered by the Portuguese, who 
still continue to possess them, in 1449, at a peri» 
od, w^hen the spirit of adventure in search of new 
regions, patronized and directed by Henry duke 
of Vizeo, had incited the navigators of his coun- 
try boldly to launch into the ocean, and to pur- 
sue their course far beyond the utmost limits of 
former geographic.il knowledge. 

They are said to have received the appellation 
©f Azores from the number of falcons which in- 
h-^bit the mountains. The atmosphere enjoys a 
great portion of clear and serene weather, and the 
mildness of the climate is highly favourable to 
human health. 

The rugged precipices and mountains varying 
in degrees of elevation, as well as in form and ex- 
tent of bases, many of whose summits arc coni- 
cal, exhibit no doubtful indication of the violent 
ei iiptions and convulsions, by which, at several 
distant periods, the country must have been agi- 
tated. 

The tops of the most lofty of these mountains 



THE AZORES. 15^ 

are usually discoverable above the clouds, which 
rest or float upon their sides ; and which their 
stupendous height attracts amid the cooler re- 
gions of the atmosphere. The acclivities, in 
proportion to their distance from the sea, in- 
crease in magnitude and elevation ; and, in many 
situations, abruptly rise into enormous piles, 
crowned with naked and barren cliffs, except 
'W' here the sides are sparingly shagged with stunt- 
ed trees and brushwood. 

The soil is in general fertile, abounding in 
corn, grapes, oranges, lemons, and a variety of 
other fruits ; and is likewise fivourabie for breed- 
ing of catlle, sheep, and other animals. Fish of 
various kinds are found, in great abundance, all 
around the coasts : and the woods and high lands 
.present a multitude of birds of different descrip- 
tions. Animals of a noxious nature are said to 
be here unknow^i. 

Saint Michael, Santa Maria, Tercera, Saint 
George, Graciosa, Fjyal, Pico, Fiores, and Cor- 
vo, are the several names by which these islands 
are distinguished. • * 

The first is by far the most extensive ; and 
lies in a direction from south-east to north-west. 
It is about fifty. four miles in length, but of an ir- 
regular breadth, not exceeding fifteen miles, and 
being at the centre not wider than six miles. 
The number of inhabitants is estimated at nearly 
eighty thousand. 



iG 'i'HE AZOREii'. 

Ponta del Gada, the priiicipai town, is s^^itat- 
ed on the south side, and contains about twelve 
thousand inhabitants. The streets are regular, 
and of convenient \\idih : and the churches Ui.d 
religious houses, as well as other public edifices, 
may be termed rather elegant. Convents and 
nunneries are placed in various situations, 
throughout the country. The town is built a- 
long the sea-coast. The land behind it rises at 
iirst uith gradual ascent, and afterwards moreab- 
ruptly, the view terminating by a congeries of 
conical hills. A mountain on the Vvcst towers 
above these, and is of a handsome form, its sum- 
mit having a table appearance. In this is an an- 
cient crater filled with water, whose depth has 
not yet been ascertained. 

There is no harbour in the vicinity of thetown^ 
and vessels are usually anchored at a considera- 
ble distance from shore, in an open and unshel- 
tered road. 

That part of the island, in which the capital is 
placed, forming a gentle acclivity of considerable 
extent, is well cultivated, and divided, with no 
small degree of taste, into spacious fields planted 
with Indian corn, wheat, barley, and pulse. Two 
srops of these are produced annually. Country 
houses are frequently interspersed with orchards 
of orange trees, whose fruit is superior to that 
which growls in the southern parts of Europe. 

Ribeira Grande, the second town in point cf 



THE AZORES. 17 

tnagnitude, is placed on the north side of the 
island, and contains nearly as many inhabitants as 
the chief city. In it are two convents ; one of 
Franciscan friars, another of nuns. 

Villa Franca, about eighteen miles east of Pon- 
ta del Gada, on the south side of the island, forms 
the third town. It likewise contains a convent 
of Franciscan friars, and one with about three 
himdred nuns. A small island opposite to this 
place, and about half a mile from the shore, pos- 
sesses a basin, with a narrow entrance, where fifty- 
vessels might anchor in security. 

Smaller towns, and a variety of hamlets, are 
scattered throughout the country. The surf of 
the sea breaks with considerable violence, and 
with unceasing agitation, all around the coast. 

The hot baths are situated in the eastern part 
of the island; and the road, leading from the 
capital thither, is by Villa Franca : from thence 
it rises by a gradual ascent for about twelve miles, 
until it attains the summit of the elevated lands 
by which these baths are environed. The de- 
scent into the valley is by a steep, narrow, and 
winding path. This extraordinary gulph is about 
twelve miles in circumference, surrounded by 
loity and abrupt precipices, and accessible only 
by three ways, cut with labour out of the cliffs* 
The soil below is fertile and well cultivated, pro- 
ducing copious harvests of wheat and Indian corn. 
The iaclosures are adorned wuh hedge-rows of 
b2 



18 THE AZORES. 

Lombardy poplars, which rise in pyramidal shapes, 
apd exhibit a pleasing appearance. The gloomy 
faces of the surrounding rocks are shaded imd 
varied by evergreens, consistirg of laurels, myr- 
tles, fayas, pao-sanguintro, tamujas, uvce de ser- 
ra, and a number of other shrubs and vines. 

Streams of crystaliine water, interrupted iix 
their downward course, dash with impetuosity 
and foaming fury from rock to rock; and, col- 
lecting in deep, stony basins beneath, thence is- 
sue in serpentine rivulets, which intersect the 
valley in a variety of directions ; in some situa- 
tions, rushing on with murmuring sound ; in o- 
thers, creeping along with a smooth and silv^er 
surface. These, together with the appearance 
of the boiling fountains, from whence clouds of 
steam are continually thrown up ; a lake, well 
stocked with water-fowl ; blackbirds, and other 
feathered songsters of the grove, enlivening by 
their melody ; fruits, and aromatic plants, yieid=. 
ing the most grateful odours, contribute to form 
a combination of objects, highly pleasing, and 
ivildly picturesque. 

The valley, which is named Furno, contains a 
number of boiling fountains ; the most remarka- 
ble of these, the Cauldron. is situated upon a small 
eminence, being a circular basin of thirty feet in 
diameter, whose water, boiling with ceaseless agi- 
tation, emits a quantity of vapour. At a itw pa- 
ces (Jjstant from heiice is tiie cavern Boca de In^ 



THE AZORES. 19 

il^rno, throwing out, for a cousiderable way from 
its mouth, quantities of water mixed with mud, 
accompanied by a noi^e like thunder. Around 
this spot, and within the com[):iss of an acre of 
land, there are upwards of a hu;:dred fountains of 
the same kind ; and even in the midst of a rivu- 
let which runs b) it, are seveial of these springs, 
so hot as to be insupportable to the touch. In 
other places the sulphureous vapours issue with 
such force, from a number of apertures in the 
overhanging cliffs, as to suggest to the iancy an 
idea of the place being inhabited by a thousand 
fabled Cyclops, occupied, with their bellow^s and 
forges, in fabricating thunder. 

The surface of the ground is covered, in many 
places, with pure sulphur, which has been con- 
dciised from the steam; and which, like hoar frost, 
is arranged in sharp-pointed, stellated figures* 

Not far distant from these hot springs, there 
are others of a nature extremely cold, particular- 
ly two, whose waters possess a strong mineral 
quality, accompanied by a sharp, acid taste. A- 
bout half a mile to the westward of this place, and 
close by the side of a river, there are likewise se- 
veral sulphureous fountains, whose waters have 
been used with eminent success, by persons af- 
flicted with scrophulous disorders Under the de- 
clivity of a hill, westward from Saint Ai;n's 
church are fcund springs of a similar kind, w^hich 
are much used by the neighbounng inhabitants* 



20 TI?E AZORES. 

These flow in currents from a precipice ; and arc 
some of allot, others of a cold temperature, al. 
though only a few feet asunder. 

To the westward of these is placed the lake, 
whose circumference is only three miles, and 
\\ hose water is of a greenish colour, being pow- 
erfully impregnated with sulphur. On its north 
side there is a small plain, where the earth, perio- 
rated in a thousand places, incessantly emits sul- 
phureous exhalations. Thither, during the heat 
of. the day, the cattle repair to avoid being tortur- 
ed by flies. 

The united waters of the springs produce a 
considerable river, called Ribeira Quente, run- 
ning, for a course of nine miles, through a deep 
rent in a mountain, and discharging itself into the 
sea, on the south side of the island. Along the 
precipices, which coniine it on either side, several 
spots emit smoke ; and in the sea, at some dis- 
tance from its mouth, there are springs which boil 
up so strongly, that their heat is sensibly felt at 
the suriace 

The Furno contains two parishes, and about a 
thousand inhabitants, whom necessity compelled 
to pass the mountains, and to cultivate a spot 
which was formerly believed to be inhabited by 
daemons. Many years elapsed before the other 
inhabitants of the island began to visit it : but, 
since the healing quuuties oi the waters have been 
discovered, ruuny mvuiids, as weii as others, have 



THE AZORES. 21 

resorted thither : and notable effects have been 
produced, by their use, upon those afflicted by 
the gout, scrophula, and other cutaneous mala- 
dies. 

The eastern and western parts of the island rise 
into lofty mountains : but the centre, which is low- 
er, is interspersed with a variety of conical hills, 
tvery one cf which discovers evident tokens of 
volcanic eruptions. Their summits are hollowed 
into basins, containing a quantity of water. On 
the west side of the island another gulph is to be 
viewed, not less singular and extraordinary than 
that already described, Vv^hich h known by the ap* 
pellation of Sete Cidades, or the seven cities ; and 
whose extent is double that of the Furno. It'is 
surrounded by steep precipices ; and contains a 
fine lake of considerable depth, and two leagues 
in circumference. No hot springs have been dis- 
covered in its vicinity : nor do the waters possess 
any mineral quality. It has no visible discharge ; 
and is on a level with the sea. The mountains, 
which form the boundaries of the valley, appear to 
have experienced the most violent and uncom- 
mon changes. They are composed entirely of 
white pumice-stone, unmixed v>'ith black lava, af- 
fording unquestionable indications of the opera- 
tion of a volcano, and of its more elevated parts 
having subsided into the centre of the mountain. 
There are two hills placed in the bottom of the 
valley^ whose craters are yet open, although al- 
most overgrown by shrubs. 



22 THE AZORES. 

The lower parts of the island are very fertile, 
and in a state of high cultivation. The soil in 
general consists of decomposed pumice-stone, 
which is easily worked ; and it usually yields t^vQ 
crops every year. 

A vegetable called tr-emosa, or blue lupin, sup- 
plies the deficiency of animal manure. It is sown 
on the fields Vvith the first rains m September, and 
from the effects of moisture and warmth, growing 
to a very rank state. About the end of November 
it is mowed down, left for a few days to fiag, and 
is afterwards plowed into the ground. 

Oranges and lemons abound throughout the 
country. The first are of an excellent quality^ 
ripen earlier than those produced in Portu- 
gal, and are brought sooner to market. The best 
kind of orange is raised by layers. Water me- 
lons grow abundantly in the fields. The farms 
produce wheat, Indian corn, and calavances. 
Vines are also cultivated on tracts of black lava 
bordering on the sea coast ; but their juice is thin 
and feeble, soon acquiring an acid taste. 

The convents and other religious establish- 
ments, placed in various situations along the bor- 
ders of the island, and constructed of a white cc* 
loured stone, produce a pleasing eflect, when 
viewed from the sea. 

The aromatic herbs, trees, and fruits, perfume 
the atmosphere with their sweets : and the breeze 
tiius impregnated, becomesj when blowing from 



THE AZORES. 25 

the land, highly grateful to the traveller in sailing 
along tlie shore. After having been three weeks 
at sea, we became sensibly impressed by its en- 
livening influence, which suggested to recollec- 
tion the following lines in Buchanan's Ode to 
May : 

*' Talis beatis incubit insulis, 

*' Aurse felicis perpetuus tepor; 

*' Et nesciis campis senectie 

*' Difficilis, quserulique niorbi.'* 

The island of Pico, from the superior altitude 
of one of its mountains, is the most remarkable of 
all the Azores. 

From the village of Guindaste to the summit of 
the peak, the distance is stated to be nine miles. 
The road passes through a wild, rugged, and dif- 
ficult country, which is entirely covered \^ ith 
brushwood. When, at seven o'clock in the 
morning, we arrived at the skirts of the mountain, 
which form the region of the clouds, the wind be- 
came extremely cold, attended by a thick mist;, 
the thermometer failing to forty-eight degrees, 
and at eight o'clock to forty- seven. In alluding 
to the degrees of cold, 1 must be understood to 
speak relatively, and only with respect to its iniiu- 
ence on the human frame, which a sudden change 
of twenty-two degrees of temperature cannot fail 
to auect. About ten we arrived at the boundary 
of the ancient crater : and the sun then acquirijig 
power, the thermometer rose to forty -eight de- 



24 'fHE AZORES. 

grces. This appears to have been more than a 
mile in circumference. The southern and wes- 
tern boundaries yet remain : but those of the 
north and east have given way, and have tum- 
bled down the side of the mountain* In the cen- 
tre of the old crater, a cone of three hundred feet 
in perpendicular height is thrown up, on the sum- 
mit of whicli is the present mouth. The ascent 
of this is very steep and difficult : and it contains 
several apertures from which smoke is emitted. 
It is formed of a crust of lava, of the consistence 
of iron that has once been in a state of fusion. 

At the hour of half past ten we gained the top 
of the peak, which is singularly sharp and pointed; 
being about seven paces in length, and about five 
in breadth. The crater is on the north side, and 
below the summit, is about twenty paces in dia- 
meter, and is continually emitting smoke. It is 
almost filled with burnt rocks. 

From hence several of the neighbouring islands 
are presented to the viev/- Pico, seen from the 
peak, exhibits an appearance no less singular 
than romantic : the eastern part rises into a nar- 
row ndge, along which are many ancient volca- 
iios w^iich have long ceased to emit smoke, and 
several of whose craters are now almost conceal- 
ed by woods which have sprung up around them. 
The basis of the peak presents likewise some re- 
mains of smaller voicanos, whohe fires are now ex- 
tinguished. Tne last ei uption oi the peak , V; iiich 



T^E AZORES. 2.^ 

happened in 1718, burst forth from its side, and 
destroyed a great part of the viiieyards. 

It is on elevated situations hke this, that is felt 
t/iat influence which the vast and unbounded thea- 
tre, at once laid open to contemplation, is capa- 
ble of exciting, — Those inspirations of nature, so 
eloquent and so animated— ^that attractive impulse 
which attunes the soul to harmony with her 
w^orks—- -that distinctive character ^^hich the Crea- 
tor hath imprinted on the heart— innate traces of 
which peculiar minds are delighted in feeling, 
amid the rude and sublime masses produced by 
explosions of the globe, or amid the less stupen- 
dous ruins of the monuments of human grandeur. 

The whole of the lower grounds of this island 
are planted with vines ; and, having been entire- 
ly covered with black lava, the labour in digging 
and clearing it away must have been considera- 
ble. When the vines are planted, the surface of 
the soil is again thinly strewed with lava, over 
which the young shoots are suffered to run. 

The height of die peak from the surface of the 
water, is about eight thousand ^perpendicular feet. 
Upon a comparison of observations made at the 
same periods with the thermometer on the peak., 
and at Fayal, they were found to be as follows : 

Fahrenheit's Thermometer. 

Fayal. On the Peak, 

f Eight o'clock — 69« 47® 

^Twelve. — — n 50 



<26 THE AZORES. 

When viewed from the sea, the peak assumes 
the appearance of a cone, almost regular, of im- 
mense magnitude, having a smaller cone rising 
from one side cf its summit, which is that alrea- 
dy described. This mountain rears its elevated 
head far above the clouds, which float around its 
craggy sides, and is visible to the extent of many 
leagues. 



NEWFOUNDLAND. ''^i 



CHAPTER 11. 



Banks cf Newfoundland — uncommon appearance of ves- 
sels engaged in the fishery — great bank — cause cf 
the fogs — cod-fish — mode of catching and preparing 
'2t~—'of drying and packing — vessels employed in the 
commerce — produce cf that branch — island of New- 
foundland — Eskimaux^ the only natives seen there — • 
account cf that race of men — original discovery of 
Neivfoundland — harbour of Saint J ohn— scaffolds-^ 
the town — sterility of soil — uninviting climate — co- 
lonization prohibited — importance in a political vie-iv 
— islands of ice — Saint Pierre and Mlquclon — Cap" 
Breton, 

HAVING taken our departure from the A^ 
zores, vre proceeded on the voyage to North A- 
tnerica ; and on arriving at the banks of New- 
foundland, a number of vessels, stationed at va- 
rious distances, and seemingly at anchor, occur- 
red to our view. These we soon understood to 
be engaged in the cod fishery. They are, in ge- 
neral, from eighty to one liundred and fifty tons 
burden, fitted out from several places in England. 
particularly from the western counties, and from 
the islands of Jersey and Guernsey.' There are, 
besides, vessels, be'onging to the fishermen vrho 
winter in Newfoundland, and at the settlements 
In the neighbouring parts of the continent. 

The Great Bank, which is about forty leagues 



^8 NEWF0UJ7DIA!s^n. 

distant from llie island, is an enormous mountain 
formed beneath the surface of the sea. Its extent 
is about a hundred and sixty leagues, and its 
breadth about sixt}^, the extremities termuiating 
in points. On the eastern side, towards the 
eentre, akind of bay is formed, called the Ditch/ 
The depth of water varies much throughout the 
whole, being, in some situations sixty, in others 
only five fathoms. Daring the hottest Vveather, 
liie fish do not frequent either the great or the 
smaller banks ; but retire to the deep waters. It 
has been remarked by many people, that on ap- 
proaching the banks, the noise of the billows of 
the ocean become more shrill and loud ; an effect 
which is probably produced by the shallowness 
of the waters. 

The thick fogs, w^hich are here more prevalent 
than m any other part of the Atlantic, exhibit a 
singular phenomenon ; and may be presumed to 
owe their origin to the stream from the gulph of 
Mexico, the discharge of waters incessantly accu- 
mulating there by the pressure of the trade winds. 

The system of philosophy introduced by Sir 
Isaac Newton, maintains, that the combined at- 
tractive influence of the sun and moon* and the 
centrifugal force of the water arising from the 
diurnal motion of the earth around its axis, ele- 
vate that liquid element at the equator to a much 
greater height than at the poles; and that the de- 
gree of elevation is ia pj^oportion to die alternate 



, FEWFOUNBtAN-ii. i^i; 

advancement, or decline, of the power of these 
luminaries. This immense collection of waters, 
impelled by its own gravitation, by the attraction 
of the earth, and by the force of the winds operat- 
ing with tliose causes, moves onwards in a wes - 
tern direction ; flows through the chain of Carib> 
bean islands ; and enters the Mexican gulph be- 
tween the island of Cuba and the promontory of 
Yucatan. Opposed by the surrounding coasts^. 
it pursues its way out of the gulph, between Flo* 
rida and the Bahama islands ; assumes a course 
to the northwards ; and thus runs in the direc- 
tion of the coast of North America, being at the 
nearest seventy-five miles distant from it, and re- 
ceding still further, in proportion to its progress. 
Its breadth is about forty- five miles : and its ra- 
pidity is about four miles in an hour. The banks 
of Newfoundland appear to form the limits of its 
advancement towards the north : and it diverges 
from thence, passing through the Azores to the 
southward, until its impulse be<iomes gradual! v 
lost. Retaining a great portion of the heat which 
it imbibed in the tropical climate, on its arrival at 
the banks of Newfoundland, it is from fifteen to 
twenty degrees of Fahrenheit, warmer, than the. 
water on each side of k, from which it differs not 
only in this respect, but in darkness of colour 
and greater depth of soundings* Whenever, 
therefore, the degree of temperature in the atmos* 
pherc b^coaicb colder than that oi Uio^e waters, s; • 
c~2 



30 NEWFOUNDLAND. • 

vapour will necessarily arise from them, which 
is condensed, and frequently covers these situa- 
tions with a moist and thick air. 

The cod-fish, whose abundance in these lati- 
tudes has afforded for a series of years an essen- 
tial object of commercial enterprise, is esteemed 
much more delicate than that found in the nor- 
thern seas of Europe, although inferior to it in 
whiteness. The length of this fish usually ex- 
ceeds not three feet : and the conformation of its 
organs is such, as to render it indifferent with re- 
gard to the selection of its aliment. The voraci- 
ty of its appetite prompts it indiscriminately to 
swallow every substance which it is capable of 
gorging : and even glass and iron have been 
found in the stomach of this fish, which, by in- 
verting itself, has the power of becoming disbur- 
thened of its indigestible contents. 

The fishermen arrange themselves along the 
stde of the vessel, each person being provided with 
lines and hooks. When a fish is caught, its 
tongue is immediately cut out : and it is delivered 
to a person, in whose hands having undergone a 
certain degree of preparation, it is dropped 
through a hatchway between decks, where part 
of the back bone is taken out : and the cod is 
thrown, in this state, through a second hatchway 
into the hold, to be salted. When a quantity of 
fish, sufficient to fill one of the vessels, is caught 
and salted, she sails from the banks to the island, 
;. ;> 



NE'WFOtTNDLAND. 51 

where, discharging her cargo, she returns to her 
station : and, in the course of the season, thus re- 
new^ four or five different freights. 

The cod-fish is dried on the island, and larger 
vessels arrive from England, to convey it from 
thence to the European markets. In packing 
the fish in bulk, in the hold of the vessel, much 
care and attention are requisite : and the greatest 
precautions are used in loading, to preserve them 
from exposure to the moisture of the atmosphere, 
by spreading sails and cloths over the boats in 
which they are contained, and over those fish al- 
ready in the vessel, if the smallest degree of damp- 
ness in the air be observable. A person, denomi- 
nated culler^ or inspector, attends the loading of 
each vessel, in order to see that no fish which is 
not perfectly cured, be introduced into the car- 
go, which otherwise might soon become dama- 
ged. 

The price of fish cured at Newfoundland, is 
generally fifteen shillings the quintal : and it nets 
in Europe about twenty shillings. The expence 
of its freight to the coast of Spain, is two shillings 
and sixpence, and to Leghorn three shillings, the 
quintal. 

The dried fish sent to the West Indies, is pack* 
^d in casks ; and is inferior in quality to that car- 
ried to Europe. The fish which is salted without 
being dried, is termed Core-fish, or green cod» 
A vessel with twelve men^ from the middle of 



S2 IffEWFOUNDLAND-. 

April to July, must catch, salt, and bring into 
port- ten thousand fish, otherwise the owners will 
be excluded from all claim to the established 
bounty The same crew% how-ever, usually 
procures, during the season, more tlian double 
that quantity. 

I'he merchants of England who are concerned 
in these fisheries, supply the fishermen upon cre- 
dit with every article of w^hich they may be in 
want ; and are repaid at the fall of the year, with 
the produce of their industry. Several hundred 
thousand pounds arc thus annually advanced, in 
speculation, on an object of commerce, before it 
is extracted from the bosom of the ocean. 

About four hundred ships, amounting to thirty- 
six thousand tons burden ; two thousand fishing 
shallops, of twenty thousand tons ; and twenty 
thousand men, are, in times of tranquillity, usu- 
ally employed every year in this fishery. About 
six hundred thousand quintals offish are annually 
taken, which, upon an average of seven years, are 
worth, at the island, fifteen shillings per quintal. 
These, w ith the other amounts, consisting of sal- 
mon, cod-oil, seal-oil, and furs, exceed annually 
half a million sterling. Of tw enty thousand men 
from Great Britain and Ireland, employed in 
that fishery, eight thousand necessarily continued, 
when their country was not at war, on the island 
all the winter. Several thousand still remain there 
during that season, and are occupied in repairing^ 



NEWFOUNDLAND. 3S 

or building boats and small vessels, or in erecting 
the scafFolds for drying fish. These are not pro- 
perly seafaring men ; and are distinguished by the 
denomination of planters, 

Newfoundland, which, in point of magnitude, 
may be classed among islands of the first extent, is, 
in fertility of soil, as far as it has hitherto been ex- 
plored, much inferior to any of similar dimensions. 
Whether it ever had native inhabitants has not been 
fuliy ascertained : and its sterility, were it even as 
real as is supposed, is not a sufficient reason for as- 
serting that it never had any ; as the natives of 
America, in general, derive their subsistence, not 
from the vegetable productions of the soil, but 
from fishing and the chase. The Eskimaux are 
the only people who have been found there : and 
iliey are by no means to be accounted aborigines 
of the country. The neighbouring territory of 
Labrador is their native land, where they pass the 
greatest part of the year ; and, unattached to any 
particular spot, v/ander over an immense tract of 
desert and inhospitable v/ilds, although their num- 
bers, if collected, would scarcely people two or 
three villages. Throughout this prodigious and 
dreary expanse of region, called by the Spaniards 
Labrador, and by the French, New Brittany, 
which is bounded by the river Saint Lawrence 
and the North Sea, and also by the coasts of New- 
foundland, no savages, the Eskimaux excepted, 
are to be met with. They are likewise iov^:^^-^^ 



34 N£WFOUNDLAIv''D. 

a considerable distance from Hudson's Bay, on 
rivers which How from the westward. 

^ Their name is said to be derived from a word 
in the Abinaquis language, Esqiiimaiitsic^ import- 
ing, an eater of raw flesh ; they bei.ig the only 
people known in North America, who use their 
food in that state. They are likewise the only 
savages v, ho permit their beards to grow. They 
assume the appellation of Keral'itCy or men. They 
are of a middling stature, generally robust, lusty, 
and of a brown colour. The oil of the whale, and 
that of the sea-cow and porpus, constitutes the 
most essential part of their food, contributing to 
defend the stomach from i^^r.t penetrating eifects 
of cold. 

The nature of their aliment imparts to their con- 
stitution that fulness, and to their complexion that 
greasy sallowness for which they are remarked. 
Their head is large in proportion, and thefr face 
round and fiat ; their lips are thick ; their eyes 
dark, small and sparkling, but inexpressive ; their 
nose is flat ; their hair black, long, and lank ; their 
shoulders are large ; and their feet uncommonly 
small. They are disposed to be lively ; are subtile, 
cunning, addicted to theft, irritable, but easily inti- 
midated ; and incapable of long entertaining, or con- 
cealing, sentiments of hatred or revenge . They are 
the only people on the continent of America, who, 
in character or appearance, exhibit the smallest re- 
semblance to th-C inhabitants of the northern p^irts 
of Europe, 



NEWFOUNDLAiVD. 55 

Their covering is made of the skins of seals, or 
of wild animals, or of those of the hind and sea: 
fowls which frequent their territory, and which 
they have acquired the art of sewing together. A 
species of capuchin, or coat with a hood, fitted 
closely to the body, and descending to the middle 
of the thigh, forms a principal part of their dress. 
They also wear trowsers of the same materials, 
drawn together before and behind with a cord. 
Several pairs of socks, with boots, are worn by 
both sexes, to defend the legs and feet from the 
penetrating cold. The dress of the women is dis- 
tinguished from that of the men by a tail, which 
falls a considerable w^ay down; by their capuchins 
being much larger tow^ards the shoulders, in order 
to cover their children, when they wish to carry 
them on their backs ; and by their boots being 
much wider, and ornamented with whalebone. In 
these they frequently place their infants for safety, 
and for warmth. Some of the men wear shirts 
made of bladders oi the sea-calf, sewed together 
with a needle of bone ; the thread being formed of 
the nerves of animals, minutely divided. 

They are averse to industry or exertion ; and 
seldom give themselves the trouble of construct- 
ing wigwams, or huts. The warmth of their sto- 
mach, and the nature of their cloathing, producing 
a sufficient degree of heat, they are satisfied with 
the sheiter afforded b} tents made of hides loosely 
thrown together, by the rocky caverns of the sea^ 



3-6 ^TEWFOUNDLAi^Dj 

coast, or by placing themselves to the leeward of a 
)bank of sno\^ In the caverns they sometimes 
make use of a lamp, formed of a large hollow bone, 
containing a quantity of oil ; but this is only for 
the coRvenience-of procuring light, as they appear 
to be ignorant of the application of fire to culinary 
purposes. The air proceeding from their hmgs 
is so mephitical and offensive, that two or more 
of them shut up in a small and close apart- 
ment, and thus excluded from free air, would pro- 
bably not long survive. It is only of late years 
that spirituous liquors have been introduced a- 
mong them: and, notwithstanding the severe 
cold of their chmate, a quantity of rum remained 
for a considerable time in the possession of one of 
their chiefs, before any of these natives would 
hazard an experiment of its effects. Fortunate 
had it been for them if they still continued in ig- 
norance of that liquor, which has proved so bane- 
ful to a great portion of the uncivilized inhabitants 
of America] 

The instruments which they use for the chase, 
and in fishing, are constructed with much neat- 
ness and ingenui:y. Their bows are composed 
of three pieces of pine, or larch-tree, which being 
neither strong nor very elastic, these defects are 
remedied by fortifying them behind with a band 
of deer's tendons, which, when wetted, contract, 
and at once communicate elasticity and force- 
Ever since they have been visited by Europeans^ 



iJ E VV P O U N D L A N 13 « J 7 

they have given a preference to the fusee : and 
whenever that instrument can be procured, the 
bow falls into disuse. 

Like all other men in the savage state, they treat 
their wives with great coldness and neglect : but 
their affection towards their oiispring is lively and 
tender. Their language is guttural, and contains 
but few words : so that they express new ideas, 
or give names to novel objects, by a combinatiou 
of terms, indicative of the qualities of the tilings 
which they wish to describe. 

Their ideas of religion are obscure and contract- 
ed. They acknowledge two invisible essences ; 
the one, they represent as the origin of good , the 
other, to whom they pay the most frequent ho- 
mage, as that of every species of evil. 

Their canoes are formed with no inconsiderable 
degree of art : and much industry appears to be 
bestowed on their construction. They are point- 
ed at each extremity ; and are covered with the 
skins of sea-animals. In the upper part, or deck, 
is an aperture Vvith a bag affixed to it, through 
which the savage introduces his body ; and, tying 
its mouth around his waist, and taking in his 
hands, a paddle which he uses alternately on each 
side, he shoots through the waves, by which he 
is tossed and buifeted, while the water is uni'blc 
to penetrate the slender vessel in which he rides. 

Nevt'foundland extends in the form of a trian* 
gle, about a hundred leagues from east to west, 

D 



38 NEWFOUNDLAND* 

and a hundred and twenty -five from north to 
south ; being situated between forty-^ix and nity- 
two degrees of north huitude. John Giibato, a 
Venetian, was its first discoverer, under the pa- 
tronage of king Henry the Seventh of England. 
No advantage was derived irom thence, until the 
lapse of a period of near forty years Cape Race, 
and Cape Ray, are the two promontories which 
present themselves to mariners sailing or the river 
Suint Lawrence* Eighteen leagues to the west- 
w.axl of the first, appears Cape Saint Mary, which 
forms the entrance of the bay of Piacentia towards 
the east. This bay is sixteen leagues in breadth, 
and twenty in depth Towards its head is the 
harbour, capable of containing in safety one hun- 
dred and fifty vessels, and defended by a ibrt call- 
ed Saint Louis The French were the first Eu- 
ropeans who frequented this situation. Between 
Piacentia and Cape Ray, the western point of the 
island, two other bays, of considerable extent, 
penetrate some distance into the country. Thty 
are distinguished by the appellations of Fortune 
and Despair. No settlements have yet been niude 
on iheir coasts : and they are but little frequented. 
Cape Ray, together with the island of Saint Paul, 
about fifteen leagues distant from it, form the en- 
trance into the gulph of Saint Lav/rence : and 
vessels sailing thither, must pass, m clear u cather, 
in sight of the one, or of the other. BcsK'ts rhe 
bays already noticed, this island contains a \ ariety 



NEWFOUNDLAND. 39 

of Others, particularly on the eastern coast, among 
which two are remarkable for their extent ; those 
of Trinity and Conception. Near the latter is 
the harbour of Saint John, which is secure and 
well fortified. 

Bordered by dark and gloomy rocks, vv^hich 
exhibit a barren, inhospitable appearance, the 
couatry, on a nearer view of its soil, belies not the 
character of its rude uninviting features, which, 
amid their nakedness, display neither grandeur nor 
sublimity. At a league distant from the entnmce 
of Saint John's harbour, no opening in the cor.st is 
discernible. A v/hite tower, raised on a precipit- 
ous eminence, seems rather intended as a m irk 
to warn vessels of the danger of approaching the 
rocky shore, than as a beacon to conduct them to 
a place of safety. On a nearer examination of it^ 
its strength becomes apparent, and no hostile ves- 
sel can enter, with impunity, the narrow chasm 
beneath. This structure, situated on a part of 
the precipice, on the south side of the entrance of 
Saint John, is named Fort Amherst. The inlet, 
called the Narrows, exceeds not five hundred feet 
in width. On each side, towards the north, the 
rocks rise to the altitude of four hundred feet : 
but on the south shore, they are of less eleva- 
tion. 

Heath, juniper, and wild spruce, the offspring 
of sterility, sparingly cover the rocky surface. 
The appearance ol the harbour and its environs^ 



40 NEWT CXI NBLA-ND. 

is, nevertheless wild and picturesque. In pre- 
ceeding further up the hilet, a battery, called 
Soutli Fort, is placed on the left ; and another, 
named Cliain-rock, on the right. At a consider- 
able elevation above these, several little forts are 
$een. A rock, in the form of a cone, is crowned 
with a battery, constructed under the direction of 
tl\Q late Sir James Wallace, who, in 1756, \^■as 
vice-admiral on the station, and governor of the 
island; and with a lifty-gun ship, two frigates, 
and two sloops of sixteen guns each, made a gal- 
lant and successful defence against the attacks of 
Adijniral Richery, whose force consisted of seven 
ships of the line, and three frigates. 

Viewed from the summit of this eminence, the 
tovv'n and the scaffolds on which the fish are placed 
to dry, present a singular appearance. These 
scaffolds are generally forty feet high, and con- 
siot of several stages, on the rafters of each of which 
a quantity of brush-wood is placed. They are 
sufficiently strong to support the weight of the 
green fish, and also, occasionally, of one or 
two men. These are erected in every situation, 
as well in th.e yallies, as on the margins of the 
perpendicular rocks. 

The tov/n of Saint John borders on the basin : 
and its situation affords no attractions, except to 
those wliom interest or necessity induces to con- 
suit the advantage, rather than the pleasure, aris- 
ing from diversity of local situation. It contains 



NEWFOU>rr)LANO. 41 

a church and two chapels ; one for the catholic 
religion ; the others for persons of the methodist- 
persuasion ; also a court-house, and a custom- 
house. 

An officer of the customs was, until lately, plac- 
ed at the head of the law department, and decid-- 
ed not only in civil, but in criminal causes A 
gentleman who has been bred to the bar, at pre- 
' sent fills the situation of judge of the island* 
The buildings are mean, and the streets narrow 
and dirty. Fort Townshend is placed above the 
to^vn ; and contains the house allotted for the go- 
vernor, with the store-houses and magazines, 
which form a square. From hence, the entrance^, 
the harbour, the narrows sunk between elevated 
precipices; and the water, covered with small 
vessels, passing and re-passing, form a lively and 
busy scene These, together with the town, and 
the adjacent country, diversified by lakes with ver» 
dant borders, exhibit, in the midst of a barren 
wild, a combination which may, for a short peri^ 
od, afford tiie charms of novelty. 

Over a place called the barrens, is a road which 
leads from Fort Townshend to Fort William^ 
commanding the narrows and the harbour With 
the latter, Signai-hill from whence the approach 
of ships is an. ivjunced, communicates. Its j:er'. 
pendicular height from the sea, is iour hundred 
and four feet: and it contahis, or. is summit.. 
two pondb,-afForaing exceileut waicFo 



42 ' NEWrOUNDLANI^' * 

The bay of Bulls lies about twenty-eight miles 
from Saint John's. The internal parts of the is- 
iap;d have never yet been explored by the Eng- 
lish. A very small portion of land is at present 
cultivated ; as neither the soil nor climate are fa- 
vourable to productions necessary for the sup- 
port of life. The duration of summer is too 
short : and no kind of grain has sufficient time 
to arrive at maturity. The winter breaks up in 
May : and, until the end of September, the air is 
temperate, during which the progress of vegeta- 
tion is sufficiently rapid. Hay and grass are here 
of a very indiffi^rent quality. The land is so spa- 
ringly covered with soil, that much labour and 
ex peace are necessary to produce a crop, which 
but poorly recompences the industry of the hus- 
bandman. The quantity of ground used for the 
purposes of cultivation, is therefore very small : 
and the prohibition of the parent state against at- 
tempts to colonize, are, by the sterile nature of the 
country, rendered almost unnecessary. The 
fishiCrmen are, in times of u^arfare, enjoined to re- 
turn to England : and the merchant is authorized, 
to retain from the w^ages of each person in his em- 
ploy, a certain proportion as a provision, in case of 
incapacity from poverty or sickness, for any indi- 
vidual to return to his country. By this prudent 
regulation, no seaman, thus engaged, can be lost 
to the service of the stite. 

The English and French long shared between 



NEWFOUNDLANB. 43 

them, the privilege of dryiiig their fish cn the 
coasts of this island; tlie latter occupying the 
southern and northern parts, and the former the 
eastern shores. The interior is composed of 
mountains, covered with woods of an indifferent 
quality. The animals found here, are foxes, por- 
cupines, hares, squirrels, lynxes, otters, beavers, 
wolves, and bears. The chace is difficult, and 
unattended with profit. The land and water» 
fowl are, partridges, snipes, woodcocks, falcons, 
geese, ducks, and penguins. In the bays and ri- 
vers are found fish of various kinds, such as sal- 
mon, eels, herring, mackarel, plaice, trout, and al- 
most every description of shell-fish. 

The territory which was requisite to prepare 
the cod-fish, belonged at first, to any person who 
took possession : and from this inconvenience, a 
source of frequent discord arose. The property 
of that part of the coast, of which he made choice, 
was at length, by the interference of government, 
secured to each fisherman. By this judicious ar- 
rangement, expeditions thither v/ere multiplied 
so greatly, that in 1615, vessels from the British 
dominions, equal in all to fifteen thousand tons, 
were employed in the fishery. The value of this 
island soon became apparent, not only as a source 
of national wealth, arising from the exchange of 
fish for the various productions and luxuries, 
which the southern parts of Europe afford, but 



44 .. NEWI"0UNt)LANI5, 

what is still of greater importance, as a principal 
nursery for the navy. 

The property of this island was, by the peace of 
Utrecht, confirmed to Great Britain ; and the sub- 
jects of France preserved only the right of fishing 
from cape Bonavista northwards, and to cape 
Rich on the opposite side. This line of demar- 
cation was afterwards altered, and placed at cape 
Ray, on the v/estern side of the island. 

The floating masses of ice, which pass in the 
vicinity of the eastern coast, and sometimes enter 
the straits of Belisle, in the summer montlis. ex- 
hibit to mariners an awful and singular spectacle. 
These enormous mounds, the accumulated ope- 
ration of cold for a series of years, in the arctic 
regions, are detached from the coasts near Hud- 
son's Bay, and Davis's Straits, by storms, and o- 
ther causes- They sometimes exceed an hun- 
dred and forty feet in altitude ; and their basis 
beneath the sea usually doubles those dimensions. 
Rivulets of fresh water, produced by their gradu- 
al dissolution, distil from their summits. We 
had an opportunity of viewing three of these stu- 
pei idous piles by the light of the raKJon, whose 
ra^s, leflccted in various directions, from their 
{glassy surface, produced an effect no less pleasing 
than novel. They become either stranded in 
shallow water, until they are melted down, or 
grow s<) porous, that they subside under the sur- 
face of the ocean. la fogs, ^id evenin the gloom 



NEWFOUNDLAND. 45 

of night, they are discoverable at some distance, by 
the cold which they emit, and by their whiteness 
and effulgence. 

The islands of Saint Peter's and of Miquelon, 
are nothing else than barren rocks, not far from 
the southern coast of Newfoundland. They were 
ceded to the French by the treaty of 1763, on 
condition that no fortifications should be erected, 
nor more than fifty soldiers kept on them to en- 
force the police. The former possesses a harbour, 
capable of containing thirty small vessels. They 
were inhabited, in times of peace, by a few French- 
men, for the purpose of carrying on the fisherj-. 

The geographical position of Cape Breton j 
was, many years ago, ascertained with tolerable 
accuracy. A narrow passage of about four leagues 
in length, and scarcely half a league in breadth, 
named the gut of Canso, separates it from the 
eastern extremity of the peninsula of Halifax or 
Nova Scotia. It forms, with the islands of New- 
foundland and Saint Paul, the boundaries of the 
entrance 'into the gulph of Saint Lawrence. Its 
figure is very irregular : and it is so intersected 
by bays and small riv^ers, that the two principal 
parts join, only by a neck of not more than eigiit 
hundred paces wide. The soil, in man) places 
swampy, and covered with light moss, is, gene- 
rally, ill adapted for cultivation. On the lands 
-towards the south side, corn, hemp, and fiax, are 



4,6 NEWFOUNDLAND. 

raised. Coal-'ni les, and like wise plaster of Pa- 
ris, are here found 

All the harbours are, on the east, open to the 
sea. The north coast is elevated, and almost in- 
accessible. The harbour of Louisbourg, once 
among the finest in North America, is on the east- 
ern coast ; and extends into the country four 
leagues, in a vviiidhig direction, containing good 
anchorage, and every where at least seven fa- 
thoms of water. The entrance, between two 
small islands, is four hundred yards wide ; and 
by means of Cape Lorembec in its vicinity, is 
discoverable at sea for a considerable distance. 
On the fortifications of this harbour, the French 
expended neai' a million and a half pounds ster- 
ling. . 

This island, denominated by the French lie 
Roy ale, contained, while in their possession, up- 
w-ards of four thousand inliabitants, whose indus- 
try V* as almost whollv applied to the fisheries ; as, 
from the sterility of the soil, neither agriculture 
nor breeding of cattle could succeed to any ex- 
tent : and from the paucity of wild animals, peL 
try could never become an object of commerce. 
The island is about thirty-six leagues in length, 
and twenty- two in its greatest breadth. It is en- 
vironed by rocks : and the climate, although suf- 
ficiently healthy, is not agreeable, being subject to 
frcjuent and thick fogs. It was conquered in 
1758, by the British forces under General VVoifca 



27EWrOI7Nr>LANB, 47 

The inhabitants are at present not numerous; 
and the officer who commands the troops, usual- 
ly a brigadier-general, in time of war, is invest- 
ed also with the powers of civil governor. His 
residence is at Sidney, the capital. 

The subjects upon which 1 have now so long 
dv^elt, are, I am afraid, from their barrenness, 
but little interesting ; nor can I, at present, in- 
dulge the hope of affording information, or cnter- 
taiiiment which will appear much more gratifying. 
Of rude, uncultivated regions, there can be tew 
descriptions but sach as are merely geographical, 
or relating to natives, equally unimproved with 
the wilds and forests which they traverse or in^ 
habit. 

Canada presents few objects which can occupy 
the enquiries of an antiquarian ; and it contains, 
perhaps, in less \'ariety than many other portions 
of the globe, productions which can recompence 
the researches oi' the naturalist. Its lakes and ri- 
vers, it is true, are the vast and principal objects 
which are calculated to inspire wonder and grati- 
fication The immense volumes, the irresisti- 
ble weight and velocity of the latter, tearing 
througii and overpowering the obstacles opposed 
to their course, by the rugged and unequal terri- 
tories amid v.'hich they roil, produce ilUls and 
cataracts of singular sublimity, and of comm.and- 
ing beauty ; these, although in some degree si- 
milar in edect, arc*, notwithstanding, iiiexhausti- 
bie in variety. 



48 GULPH 0? SAINT LAWRENCE. 

CHAPTER III. 

Giilph of Saint Lawrence — Prince Edward'* s inland-^ 
Bird isles — Bay of Chaleurs ; its commerce, and 
that of Gaspe — state of agriculture — route to the 
capital — perforated rock — the Ganet — mouth of the 
great river— Anticosti — wild aspect presented hij 
the coasts on either side the river — river Saguenaij 
"^wa^erfall — boldness of shores — imijiense depth — 
king'^s posts — account of the inoiintaineers — Malbaij 
--^Coudres^^Saint PauVs hay — Camoiirasca — island 
sf Orleans. 

THE Gulph of Saint Lawrence, as well as 
the great river which there* disembogues its wa- 
ters, received its name from Jacques Cartier, who 
in 1535 ascended as far as Montreal. Its boun- 
daries are the coasts of Labrador, Nova Scotia, 
Cape Breton, and Newfoundland. The island of 
Saint John, whose name is now changed to that of 
Prince Edward's island, was first settled by Aca- 
dians, in 1749 : and their number soon amount- 
ed to three thousand. When the English took 
possession of it, the former people retired to the 
continent. Its present condition is flourishing : 
and its inhabitants amount to about seven thou- 
.sand. The soil, which is level, is in general fer^ 
tile , is watered by rivulets and springs ; is di* 
versified with meadow s for pasture, and with si^ 



eULPIi GF SAINT.LAXV'EENCE, 4^ 

tuations which would be w^U adapted for the cul- 
ture of grain, were it not, that from the frequen- 
cy of fogs, that article is liable to be destroyed by 
mildew. The climate is likcw^ise subject to drx'' 
v/eather, when insects and vermin, hostile to ve- 
getable productions, are abundantly propagated. 
The island is upwards of an hundred and ten 
miles in length ; and its greatest breadth does 
not much exceed nine. It bends in the form oS 
a crescent, each extremity terminating in a sharp 
point. The harbours are commodious and safe. 
Cod-fish is found in g-reat plenty all around it* 
coasts. A channel, five leagues in width, sepa- 
rates it from the continent : and Green Bay, near- 
ly opposite the center of the island, enters the 
country more than four leagues, forming, with 
the bay of Fundy, the isthmus, whose breadth is 
about five leagues, that connects the peninsula of 
Nova Scotia with the main land. At the bottom 
of Green-bay the French had some settlements^ 
and a small fort. Several families are now estab- 
lished on that part of the coast, and a road of com- 
munication from Pictou to Halifax, has lately 
been opened. 

Not far from the entrance of the gulph, and 
somewhat to the northward, the Magdalen isles, 
which are seven in number, and of small extent, 
present themselves in a cluster. They are inha- 
bited by a few families, whose principal support 

E 



50 GULPH OF SAINT LAWRENCE. 

js derived from fishing. Tiie Bird isles, situated 
in the gulph, consist of two rocks, elevated above 
the water, upwards of an hundred feet ; their flat- 
tened summits, whose circumference exceeds 
not, each, three hundred paces, exhibit a resplen- 
dent whiteness, produced by the quantities of or- 
dure, with which tl:iey are covered, from immense 
ilocks of birds ; which, in summer, take posses- 
sion of the apertures in their perpendicular cliffs, 
where they form their nests and produce their 
young. When alarmed, they hover above the 
^ocks, and overshadow their tops by their num- 
bers. The abundance of their eggs affords to 
the inhabitants of the neiglibouring coast, a ma- 
terial supply of food. 

A vast inlet, penetrating into the country for a 
f reat many leagues to the westward, is called the 
bay of Chaleurs, which being advantageously pla- 
ced tor carrying on fisheries, has on its borders, a 
considerable number of inhabitants. Jacques 
Cartier, in 1534, sailed into tliis bay ; and from 
tlie heat which he there experienced in the mid- 
dle of summer, gave it the name which it still re. 
tains. Notwithstanding the more northerly situa- 
tion of this bay, the cold is not so intense here as 
at Quebec, being moderated by the sea air. The 
depth of snow in the woods, during the winter 
season, is from six to eight feet ; but varying ac- 
cording to the different situations, and the degrees 
of severity in the weather. It is not before the be^ 



GULPH OF SAINT LAWREICCE. 51 

ainnin!^ of May, that the iniiueriGe of the sun up- 
on vegetation is here materia-iy feit ; nor is it be- 
fore that time, that the woods are entirely ckar^ 
ed of snow. 

It may be ol)served as a curious circumstance.^ 
that for six, eight, and ten leagues from the shores 
of tliis buy, in proceeding into tiie woods, tr;n-eU 
Icrs and huntsmen frequently meet with spots of 
about tvvo or three acres in surface, entirely bure, 
and yet surrounded with seven or eight ftet depth 
of snow; Vv-hich, in times of bad v/eather, melts 
ns it fliUs, both on those situations, and on the 
trees, to which they aflbrd grow^th. Those spots., 
in their relative position to the head of the bay, 
extend from east to west, being usually found in 
that direction ; and their denudation cf snovv may 
probably be occasioned hj subterraneous heat, 
w^hich approaching nearer to the surilice of the 
ground, produces the e^ect whicl! has been dc 
scribed. 

Neither *iminerals, nor mineral waters, ha^'c yet 
been discovered in this district. The timber 
wliich grows here consists of spruce, fir, white and 
black birch, beech, elm, and oak, which, being 
porouSj is of little value. 

The island of Bonaventure, is about a league 
from the nohh shore of the entrance into the bay : 
and a small number of persons Winter on it, for 
no other purpose than to retain possesion of their 
fisheries. About twenty-one leagues up t'le bay, 



52 GULPH OF SAINT LAWREKCE. 

there is a parish of the same name with the is- 
land. 

Cod-fish, salmon, and herrings are the only pro- 
ductions of commerce derived I'rom the bays of 
Gaspe and Chaleurs. Ship-building has of late 
years been here tried with success : but whether 
or not it will answer in time of peace, is uncer- 
tain. There are about three hundred families 
settled all along the coast of the district of Gaspe, 
who are chiefly of the Roman Catholic religion, 
and whose sole occupation is fishing. The pro^ 
duce of their industry is transported to foreign 
markets, in from eight to ten square-rigged ves^ 
r-els, besides smnller craft. 

The liutlvco of this district are of the Micmao 
tribe. A few Malicites come thither at times, 
from the river Saint John and Madawaska. Up- 
on the banks of the river Ristigouche, which emp- 
lies itself into die bay of Chaleurs, and about eight 
leagues from its mquth, there is a church, and an 
Indian village. At Tracadigash, and at the set- 
tlement of Bonaventure, there are likewise church- 
es, besides some chapels in the smaller settle- 
ments, where the ecclesiastical functions are per- 
formed by two, and sometimes by three mission- 
aries. 

Agriculture is uncommonly neglected, and in 
an entire state of infancy. It has of late years 
been somewhat more attended to than formerly ; 
because the want of salt, an article ever scarce in 



GULPH OF SAIA'T LAWkENCE. 5S 

those parts in time of war, and oti"ier causes, ga^'e 
to the fisheries a temporary check, and obliged 
fhe inhabitants to secure the means of subsisting 
their families, by tillage and husbandry. But, it 
is probable they will, as they have ever done, re= 
same the hook and line, as soon as they have a 
prospect of encouragement in that their fa\ ourite 
pursuit. 

The roads of intercourse betw^een the adjoining 
settlements are very indifferent. But^ wherever 
there is any interruption, by extensive, unsettled 
parts of the coast, the traveller must have recourse 
to v\-ater communication. 

Three different routes are pursued by tliose 
whom business obliges to travel to Quebec, hi 
the winter season. One of these is by the coast 
of the Saint Lawrence, the other t^\ o by the river 
Ristigouche. In adopting the second, the travel- 
ler ascends that river about twelve leagues, until 
he reaches the Matapediach, which empties itself 
therein, and whose course he traces upwards to a 
lake of the same name, from whence it derives its 
source ; hence he continues in the same direction, 
about ten leagues, along an Indian path, to the ri- 
ver Mitis, flowing into the S^int Lavrence The 
third route is, by ascending the Ristigouche, to 
near its source, as far as a brook, called by the 
natives Wagancitz; and from thence, by' crossing 
the land to the Saint John, about eight lecgues 
above the great falls ; b}- [ollowmg diis ri\'er, un= 

k2 



54 GULPH OF SAINT LAWRENCE. 

til its junction with the Madawaska, and the latter 
river to lake Tamiscuata ; and by proceeding 
alone that lake to the gronde portage^ or road 
opened by the late General Haldimand, through 
Tvhich, after walking about thirty miles, the tra- 
veller gains the ri\^er Saint Lawrence, near the 
riviere des Caps, two leagues and a half below the 
parish of Camourasca. The first of these routes 
is the longest ; and may be computed, from the 
middle of the bay of Chaleurs, at about one hun- 
dred and forty leagues to Quebec. The two lat- 
ter must be nearly equal. It would appear, how- 
ever, from the courses, that the road by Matape- 
diach, must be somewhat shorter than the other. 
The distance of either, from Carlisle, in the mid- 
dle of the bay, to Quebec, does not exceed one 
hundred and twenty leagues. 

The only object in this part of the country^ 
which may be considered as a natural curiosity, 
is the rock called Perce, perforated in three places 
in the form of arches, through the central and 
largest of which, a boat Vvith sails set, may pass 
with great facility. This rock, which, at a dis- 
tance exhibits the appearance of an aqueduct in. 
ruins. rises to the height of nearly two hundred 
feet. Its length, which is at present four hundred 
yards, must have been once much greater ; as it 
has evidently been wasted by the sea, and by the 
frequent impulse of storms. 

The shell- fish procuicd, in the month of Au- 



(iULPH OF SAINT LAWRENCE. OJ 

gust, from the rivers, and from their mouths near 
the coast, in the vicinity of the bay of Chaleurs, 
are so highly impregnated with a poisonous qua- 
lity, as to occasion ahuost instantaneous death to 
those who eat them. The cause of this circum- 
stance remains yet to be ascertained. Not only 
in the district of Gaspe, but in most settlements 
on the Gulph of Saint Lawrence, similar effects 
have been experienced. The period of the year 
has apparently no other share in producing them, 
than by the reduction of the quantity of waters 
which generally takes place in summer. The 
greater the diminution of waters, the stronger, of 
course, becomes the proportion of poisonous mat= 
ter with which these waters are endowed : and 
this being imbibed, especially during ebb tides^ 
by the shell-fish, they are thus productive of con» 
sequences, fatal to those who use them as an arti= 
ele of food. 

Not only the Bird isles, already described, but 
the island of Bonaventure, and Perce rock, abound 
in summer with ganets, which, in prodigious 
flocks, arrive early in May from the southward. 
They lay and hatch their ego:s, not only on those 
islands, but on various parts of the coast, where 
adventurous sportsmen, often with considerable 
risque, ascend and plunder their nests, amid the 
steep and threatening cliffs. These birds, at that 
period very fierce, will sometimes, by the seve^ 



56 RIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 

rity of their bite, directed chiefly at the eyes of 
the despoiler, force him to retreat. 

The bay of Gaspe is more than t\\o leagues m 
depth : and its coasts are inhabited by settlers en-" 
gaged in the fisheries. 

The Gulph of Saint Lawrence is about eighty- 
leagues in length : and when the winds and cur,- 
reats are favourable, its passage does not usually 
exceed twenty -four hours. The Saint Lawrence 
is one of the greatest, most noble, and beautiful 
rivers, and, at the same time, the furthest naviga- 
ble for vessels of a large size, of any in the uni- 
verse. From its mouth to the harbour of QuebeCy 
the distance is one hundred and twenty leagues : 
and vessels from Europe ascend to Montreal, 
%vhich is sixty leagues higher up its course. 

Cape Rosiers, at a small distance to the north= 
ward of the point of Gaspe, is properly the place 
which limits the farthest extent of this gigantic 
river : and it is from thence that the breadth of 
its mouth, which is ninety miles, must be estima= 
ted. They who pretend that its width is one hun- 
dred and twenty miles, measure it apparently from 
the eastern extremity of Gaspe. The mouth of 
the Saint Lawrence is separated into two chan» 
nels, by the island of Aniicosti, extending from 
south east to north west, about a hundred and 
twenty miles, and in its utmost breadth about 
thirty miles. The north channel is little frequent- ^ 
cdp although safe and of great depth. It is much 



RIVER SAINT LAWRENCff. 5T 

narrower than the south channel, which is near 
sixteen leagues wide at its entrance. The island 
is of little value. The wood which growls upon 
it is small : the soil is barren : and it possesses 
not a single harbour where a vessel may with safe- 
ty enter. The country is flat tow^ards the coasts^ 
rising a little in the centre, but no where into hills. 
Flat rocks extend at each e-xtremity, to a consi- 
derable distance from the shores, rendering the 
approach hazardous. A few savages sometimes 
^vinter there, for the purpose of the chace. On 
passing this island, the land becomes visible on 
both sides of the river. 

The mountains of Notre Dame and Mont 
Louis, behind which the former are placed, are part 
of a chain on the south side of the river, the vallies 
between which are occasionally frequented by sa» 
vages. The environs of Mont Louis afford lands 
fit for cultivation : and some families are there 
settled. On the northern and opposite coast of 
the river, the bayof seven islands is placed, where 
a fleet under the com.mand of Admiral Walker 
was, in 1711, lost on an expedition against Que- 
bec. An eminence, named La pointe de Mont Pe- 
lee^ is situated seventeen leagues to the south west 
of these islands. Along the extent of the north 
coast, the river 3Ioisie, and several other conside- 
rable streams, roll down to the Saint Lawrence^ 
the tribute or their waters. 

Cape Chatte, on the south shore, exhibits a 



jS RlVZTi SAiXT LAWR£:;CE. 

bold appearance : between this and a point oii 
the north coast, which terminates the bald moun- 
tains, the channel Oi the river becomes considera 
bly contracted. 

Two conical elevations, upon a mountain, call 
cd Les Alammelles de Matane^ about two league: 
distant from the coast, pi'esent themselves to view. 
No coantrj^ can exhibit a more wild aspect than 
that which here extends on eidier side the river. 
Stunted trees, rocks, and sand, compose the in 
hospitable and desolate tcrrkor}'-, which cannot 
boast of an acre of soil capable of yielding any 
useful production. Birds and wild animals are, 
indeed, here to be found. But the chace is prac- 
ticable only to savages. 

The shoal of Maniagoagan advances from the 
north shore, upwards of two leagues into the ri- 
ver. It receives its appellation from a stream 
which has its source in the territory of Labrador, 
and here discharges itself into the Saint Lawrence. 
This considerable body of water is also called the 
Bitick-'river. Towards the east there is a bayx)' 
the same name as- the shoal, and on *J^" vv<-^ +• 
b;.y of Outardes. 

The small island of Saint Barnaby is placed 
near the south shore, opposite to an inconside- 
rable river, upon the banks of which is a settle 
ment called Rimouski. From Mont Louis to 
this island, the distance is forty leagues, through- 
out whicli, tiiere is neither on the south or the 



TvIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 59 

north shore any station which can have the merit 
of being termed a harbour ; and some anchoring 
places only present themselves. These are prin- 
cipally on the north shore ; and are distinguished 
by the names of port La Croix, the river Saint 
Marguerite, the cove of Trinity, the port of Saint 
Nicholas, and the bay of Maniagoagan, already 
mentioned In proceeding further up Cape Ori- 
ginal a promontory of a rugged and singular form, 
attracts the eye ; in whose vicinity is the isle of 
Bique, ^vell known to navigators for its excellent 
harbour, and as being the place at which pilots- 
are landed from vessels proceeding down the river. 
To the southward of the cape, the stream of Trois 
Pistoles empties itself into the Saint Lawrence : 
and the isle of Basque lies opposite to its mouth. 
A considerable number of rivers flowing 
through long channels from the northward, pour 
their waters into the Saint Lawrence. The chief 
of these is the Saguenay , drawing its source from 
lake Saint John, and running to the eastward 
through a mountainous and barren region. The 
lake is about thirty leagues in circuit : and its 
borders, as well as the surrounding country, are 
covered with pine trees of a small grov/th. The 
Saguenay, which sweeps along a prodigious body 
of waters, is interrupted in its course by abrupt 
precipices, over which it dashes its foaming cur- 
rent ; and, being bounded by banks of great ele- 
vation, is remarkable for the depth and impetuosi- 



^0 RIVER SAGUENAV, 

ty of its Rood, long before it mingles with tlie 
§reat river. The fall, which is about fifty feet in 
altitude, is ninety miles distant from the mouth of 
the river; and is chiefly striking, for the immense 
sheet of water, which is perpetually broken in its 
rugged course, and assumes a resplendent white- 
ness. When viewed from below, the scene is 
stupendous and terrific. The incessant and deaf- 
ening roar of the rolling torrents of foam, and the 
irresistible violence and fury with which the river 
hastens down its descent, tend to produce on the 
mind of the spectator an impression awfully 
grand. The picturesque and rudely wild forms 
of the lofty banks, exhibit a gloomy contrast t© 
the lively splendour of the cataract. 

The impetuous torrent of the Sanguenay, whei> 
the tide is low, is sensibly felt in the Saint Law- 
rence, which, for a distance of many miles, is 
obliged to yield to its impulse ; and vessels ap- 
parently going their course, have thereby been 
carried sidelong in a different direction. 

Besides the fall now described, this river is 
broken into several rapids or cataracts of lesser 
height. In many places the banks are rugged and 
steep ; and at intervals, consist of almost perpen- 
dicular cliffs of astonishing elevation, some rising 
to a thousand, and some to six or seven hundred 
feet. The length of the course of this river is a 
hundred and fifty miles. Its breadth is generally 
near three miles, except near its mouth, where it 



IlIVER SAGtTENAi. ^1 

Contracts to one-third of that extent. An attempt 
bus been made in the centre of its mouth, to sound 
the depth with five hundred fathoms of line : but 
no bottom was found. A mile and an half higher 
up from thence, the depth has been ascertained at 
one hundred and thirty-eight fathoms : and sixty 
miles further, in ascending the course of the ri- 
ver, the depth is near sixty fathoms. 

Notwithstanding its immense breadth, and the 
stupendous elevation of its rocky shores, the 
course of this river is rendered extremely crook- 
ed, by points of land which appear to interlock 
each other; and thus prolong its navigation. 
The tide ascends to the peninsula of Chicoutami, 
and, intercepted in its retreat, by these frequent 
promontories, is much later in its ebb, than that 
of the Saint Lav^rence. The level of the former 
river, becomes thus, many feet higher than tliat 
of the latter, into whose bosom it rushes, with the 
boundless impetuosity already remarked. 

On the north side of the mouth of the Sague- 
nay, is the harbour of Tadoussac, capable of af- 
fording shelter and anchorage, for a number of 
vessels of a large size. Previous to the establish- 
ment of a colony in Canada, this place was fre- 
quented, for the purpose of carrying on the fur 
trade. Several'smali settlements belonging to go- 
vernment, are placed along the northern coast of 
the Saint Lawrence. These are usually known 
by the appellation of the King's Posts; and are 

F 



62 RIVER SAGUENAY. 

let, for a term of 5^ears, to commercial people, 
for the design of conducting a traffic for peitry 
with the savages, and also for the salmon, whale, 
seal, and porpus fisheries. Their several names 
are, Tadoussac, Chicoutami, seventy -five miles 
up the Saguenay ; a post on Lake Saint John, 
Ashuabmanchuan, Mistashni, les Isles de Jere- 
mie on the sea, Seven Islands, and Point De 
Monts. At these various situations, previous to 
the year 1802, about eighty Canadians were 
employed in hunting, and purchasing furs from 
the Indians in winter, and during summer, in the 
salmon fishery, for which the river Moisie, eigh- 
teen miles below Seven Islands, affords a most 
productive field. 

Chicoutami is the only situation on the Sague- 
nay, where the soil is fertile, and abounds with 
timber of an excellent growth. It has been found 
by experiment, that grain will ripen much sooner 
there than at Quebec, although placed considera- 
bly to the northward of that city. The vicinity of 
the sea, to the former, disarms the winter of a por- 
tion of its severity, and produces an earlier spring. 

The natives in possession of the tract of coun- 
try around Lake Saint John, and on the borders 
of the Saguenay, are named Mountaineers, and 
arv descended from the Algonqums. They are 
neither so tall, nor so well lormed, as the savages 
thi't riLiige tliroughout the north- v» est country; 
and are also strangers to that sanguinary icrocitVj 



RIVER SAGUENAY. 63 

by which many of the Indian tribes are characte- 
rized. They are remarkable for the mildness and 
gentleness of their manners; and are never known 
to use an offensive weapon against each other, or 
to kill or wound, any person whatever. Nor can 
the effects of spirituous liquors, so baneful to ether 
natives, excite them to cruelty, or vindictive pas- 
sion. Their behaviour is uniformly orderly and 
decent. Their mode of dress is the same as that 
which now prevails, among the other savages v ho 
have intercourse with Europeans : and the stuiTs, 
and silks, for which thev exchansre their furs, are 
often rich and costly. 

Their vrhole number is about thirteen hun- 
dred ; nearly one half being converted to the 
Christian faith, and the other half being Pagans. 
A missionary sent from Quebec, resides among 
them : and chapels, where divine service is per- 
formed, are erected at the principal posts. Re- 
peated efforts, and much persuasion have been 
used, to prevail on these savages to cultivate the 
lands, and to plant Indian corn, or potatoes. 
They have not, however, been able to overcome 
their propensity to indolence, or their utter aver- 
sion and abhorrence to that species of labour. 
Thvy appeared to relish these articles of food, 
when offered ; and would eat them with avidity, 
if accompanied with a little grease. Yet, even 
the incitement of revrard. superadded to the pros- 
pect of a constant and wholesome supply of nou- 



64 mVEit SAINT LAWRENCE. 

rishment, failed in producing any inclination for 
industry. 

Although, like other tribes in a barbarous state, 
each individual is solely dependent, for support 
and defence, on the strength of his own arm, and 
the resolution of his mind ; they are, notwithstand- 
ing, so pusillanimous, that at the appearance of an 
enemy, however small in riumbers, they betake 
themselves to flight, and retire for safety into ihe 
woods. 

The furs procured in this quarter, are, in ge- 
neral, of a superior quality : and great attention j 
is bestow ed by the hunters, in scraping and clean- 
ing the parchments. These posts, which pro-, j 
duced to government a rent of no more than ! 
four hundred pounds a year, have lately been let, 
on a lease of thirty years, to the North-w est Com- 
pany, a society of merchants at Montreal, for the 
yearly rent of one thousand and twenty-five 
pounds. 

Near the island of Bique, the settlements on 
the south coast of the Saint Lawrence may be 
said to commence. Green Island, about seven 
leagues higher in ascending the river, exhibits a 
pleasing appearance ; and affords luxuriant pas- 
turage for a number of cattle. Some of the low 
grounds on the island, and on . the continental 
shore, being frequently, during high tides, over- 
flowed by the salt water, are clothed with herb» 
agcr The river in this part, abounding in shoals. 



illVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 65 

there is a channel, or traverse on the north side 
of Green Island, where, at low tide, the current 
descends with rapidity, and through which ves- 
sels hold their course. The coast on the south 
shore, from hence, upwards, assumes a flat ap- 
pearance, the hills rising at some distance from 
the river. I'he north coast, although of no great 
elevation, is abrupt, rocky and sterile, for an ex- 
tent of several leagues : and the islands towards 
that side, exhibit a like desolate character. 

Between Point a /' Aigle^ a mountainous pro- 
montory on the north coast, and a congeries of 
other eminences called les Eboulements, there is 
a considerable settlement situated at the bottom, 
of an inlet, which recedes about three miles from 
the great river ; and is called Mal-bay. Here 
the land is cultivated and inhabited for an extent 
of six miles, in a rich and romantic valley, through 
which a river, abounding in salmon and trout, 
winds its course into the bay. The soil which 
consists of a black mould upon sand, is fertile : 
and the inhabitants, whose communication with 
other settled parts of the country is not frequent, 
possess, within their own limits, an abundance of 
the necessaries of life. 

Cattle, sheep, some horses, wheat, oats, and 
boards, are exported from hence to Quebec. This 
bay is frequented by porpuses of a milk-white 
colour, which in some seasons yield a handsome 
profitj to thos^ concerned in the fisheries. Whales 
I 2 



66 RIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 

seldom ascend higher than the mouth of the 
Saguenay. 

The entrance to this bay, presents to the eye, a 
landscape at once singularly romantic and beauti- 
ful ; being terminated by mountains, whose va- 
ried and elevated summits, sharpen into cones of 
different magnitudes. 

In ascending the Saint Lawrence, the country 
on either side affords pleasure and amusement to 
the traveller, by the exhibition of a profusion of 
grand objects. Amid the combination of islands, 
promontories, and hills clothed with forests, some 
scenes more strikingly than others, attract the at- 
tention. On the north side, after passing MaU 
bay, a bold and interesting scene is formed, by 
huge masses of rock, interspersed with shrubs, 
and by the east side of the hills, called les E- 
boulements, which, with majestic elevation, pro» 
ject into the river. The settlement of Camou- 
rasca, with the mountains beyond it, forms the 
opposite coast. 

The island of Coudres, situated at the distance 
of about a league from the north sliore, rises gra- 
dually from the water, except in a few places, 
where its borders, although of no great height, 
«re almost perpendicular, and covered with small 
trees. It contains one parish, and about thirty 
families, each of which derives its support from its 
own lands. The extent of this island, is about 
seven miles in length, and about thi'ee in extreme 



RIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 67 

breadth. Its name arose from the quantity of 
hazel-trees, which Jacques Cartier, in his voyage 
to Quebec, found growing in its woods. 

The river, on the south side of the island, is of 
no great depth ; and forms a winding channel of 
about two miles in width, deeper than any other 
part of its bed in this situation, and known by 
the appellation of the Traverse. When the wind 
is unfavourable, the navigation is here difficult : 
and the breadth of the river from Coudres to the 
south shore, being fourteen miles, great attention 
is necessary, in order to steer within the Traverse ; 
for, if it be overshot by a large vessel, she will 
inevitably be set aground. But, as the bottom 
consists of mud, or sand, damage is, in that event, 
seldom sustained, any further than the delay in 
waiting for a high tide. 

The channel between Coudres and the north 
shore, is upwards of a league in breadth, and of 
considerable depth. But as the anchorage there 
is by no means good, tlie bottom being rocky, a 
vessel in endeavouring to pass through it, would 
not be in full security, should the wdnd and tide 
cease to operate in her favour. For this reason,^ 
the southern passage is preferred by pilots. 

The Eboulements, already noticed, consist of 
a small chain of mountains, suddenly rising from 
the water ; and, towards the east, bounding the 
entrance into Saint Paul's bay. On their sides, 
are several cultivated spots : and the settlement? 



63 RIVER SAINT LAWREJiTCE* 

appear one above another, at different stages of 
heio;ht. The houses, corn-fields, and woods, 
irreofularlv scattered over the brow of the hills, 
produce an effect, luxuriant and novel. 

Saint Paul's bay is formed by mountains, 
•which, on either side, recede from the coast of the 
river, towards the north, inclosmg a valley of nme 
miles in extent, through which, two small rivers 
pursue their serpentine courses. The mountains 
are heaped upon each other : and their rugged 
and pointed summits, boldly terminate the view. 
The valley is well cultivated, and thickly inha- 
bited. A great proportion of the soil is rocky 
and uneven : and some spots, on the sides of 
the hills, are so precipitous, that they are unfit 
for the purpose of pasturage. The inhabitants, 
however, cultivate those spots by manual labour ; 
and sow them with wheat or oats. The dwell- 
ing-houses are, in general large; are built of 
stone ; and show an external neatness, which is^ 
indeed, common to almost the whole of the ha- 
bitations of the peasantry in Canada, the roofs and 
walls being washed with lime. 

A number of rivulets, rolling down the sides 
of declivities, tlirough gullies and ravines formed 
by their waters, afford situations convenient ior 
saw-mills, several of which are here erected : and 
a o) vsiderahle quantity of lumber * is exported 

* Lumbei-, in a commercial sense, imports boards,, plank, cr 
squared timber* ^ 



RIVER SAINT LAWRENCE, 69 

from hence, every summer. This settlement also 
supplies grain, and cattle, for exportation ; and 
comprehends, throughout its whole extent, about 
two hundred houses, and a neat church. The se- 
minary of Quebec possesses the seignorial right 
over the lands of this establishment, which has 
been peopled upwards of a hundred and ten years. 

The further extremity of the valley affords a 
scene of wild and picturesque beauty. A small 
river hastens, over a stony channel, its broken 
andv interrupted waves. Acclivities on each side 
rear aloft their pointed summits : and the sight 
is abruptly bounded by a chain of elevated hiils. 
The rocks, composing the mountains in this vici- 
aity, are of a hard, grey contexture, intermixed 
with grains of shining, garnet-coloured quartz, 
which is sometimes united in entire stripes. 

This pait of the country, as well as Mai- bay, 
is subject to earthquakes, particularly in the win- 
ter season, when they are sometimes so alarming, 
as to threaten destruction to the buildings. No 
serious accident has, however, of late years oc- 
curred ; although apprehension frequently com- 
pels the inhabitants to forsake their dwellings du- 
ring the reiteration of the shocks. 

The breadth of the Saint Lawrence from Mai- 
bay to Camourasca on the south shore, is about 
twenty miles : and a cluster of rocky islands is 
situiited about a league from the coast of that set- 
tlemeiit. Between these islands and the shore^. 



70 raVER SAIXT LAWr.ENCE. 

the inhabitants place, every spring, a fence, form- 
ed '>f the straight and slender boughs of trees, 
firmly stuck ii.to the sandy bottom, at about two 
fet^t distance from each other. When the tide 
ascends, the white porpuses, with which the ri- 
ver abounds, enters those snares : and the vio- 
lence of the ciirrent, causing a tremulous motion 
in t]:ie branches, they are afraid to repass the fences. 
When the tide has retired, they are left upon the 
dry beach. 

These fishes, which are of a sno^vy whiteness, 
are to be seen playing, in great numbers, near the 
•surface of the water, from the mouth of the river, 
as high up as the island of Orleans, and frequent- 
ly in the basin of Quebec. They often follow, in 
multitudes, vessels sailing in the river : and many 
of them are twelve, or even fifteen feet in length. 
One of the smallest will yield upwards of a barrel 
of oil. The fisheries of seals and sea-cows, are 
likewise profitable. 

The vicinity of Camourasca presents a scene, 
wdld and romantic, being varied by islands, by 
level lands, and by rocky acclivities. The sul- 
phureous springs found here, and the immicnse 
masses of broken rock, which appear to have been 
thrown together by some violent and uncommon 
effort of nature, afford grounds for supposing, 
that this part of the country has undergone ma- 
terial changes. 

From this setdement, in ascending the coast of 



HIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 71 

the great river, the country is fertile, and thickly 
inhabited ; being, in some places, settled to the 
depth of several concessions. The cultivated 
lands are level, and watered by a variety of line 
streams; among Vvhich the Quelle, the Saint Ann, 
and the Saint Thomas, are the chief The latter 
falls into the Saint Lawrence in a beautiful man- 
ner, over a perpendicular rock, whose altitude is 
twenty-five feet. Great quantities of grain are 
produced in the parishes of the same names as 
these rivers : and the soil surpasses in fertility, 
any of the settlements around Quebec. The coasts 
of the great river afford excellent meadow lands. 
The churches, and settlements which are placed 
thickly together, produce an agreeable contrast, 
with the forests and distant mountains. The face 
of the country on the north is elevated and bold, 
being composed of a succession of hills, rising 
abruptly from the water, and terminating towards 
tlie west, by cape Tourment, \\ hose perpendicu- 
lar altitude is two thousand feet. Between Saint 
Paul's bay and that cape, at the basis of one of the 
mountains, stands the parish cf la Pitlte Riviere, 
The centre of the river is diversified by clusters 
of small islands, some of which are settled, and 
partly cleared of their native woods. They sup- 
ply good pasturage for cattle, and great quantities 
of hay. On approaching the island of Orleans, a 
rich and interesting view displays itself. It is 
composed by the eastern extremity of that island. 



'?2 BIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 

clc ''ed with trecb, Uit isle de Madame^ the Cape, 
and the a^ountains which recede Irom it towards 
the west and north, with the cultivated meadows 
which spread themselves under its rocky basis. 
When the atmosphere is varied by clouds, which 
frequently envelope the summits of those moun- 
tains, and which, by suddenly bursting open, 
present them partially to the eye, the spectator 
becomes impressed with the sublimity and gran- 
deur of the scene. 

Cape Tourment is three hundred and thirty 
miles distant from the mouth of the river. After 
passing the island of Coudres, the water assumes 
a whitish hue, and is brackish to the taste, the 
mixture of salt continuing to diminish, until the 
tide reaches the lower extremity of Orleans, where 
it becomes perfectly fresh. 

The latter island, rises in gradation, from its 
steep banks on the coast, towards its centre, pre^ 
Sf nting a pleasing and fertile appearance. Beyond 
it, the mountains of the north coast exalt their 
towering summits Its circumference is about 
forty-eight miles. It was, in 1676, erected into 
an Earldom, under the title of Saint Laurent, 
which has long been extinct. Of the two channels 
formed by this island, that of the south, possess- 
ing much greater depth and breadth, is tlie course 
through which all vessels of burden are navigated. 
About the center of this island is an anchoring 
ground, called Patrick's hole, protected by loity 



illVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 75 

banks, and affording shelter, when necessary, for 
a great number of ships. The channel on the north, 
is navigable for sloops and schooners only ; and 
appears to be gradually diminishing in depth. 

Wild vines are found in the woods of Orleans, 
which induced Jacques Cartier, on his first landiiig 
there, to bestow on it the appellation of the Isle de 
Bacchus, Considerable quantities of grain are 
here produced ; and in several situations, there are 
orchards afibrding apples of a good quality. ..At 
the lov/er extremity of the island, the river is six- 
teen miles in breadth : and at the upper extremi- 
ty, a basin extending in every direction, about six 
miles, is formed. At the approach to this basin, a 
number of objects combine to produce a lively and 
interesting prospect. The foaming clouds of the 
Montmorenci, pjDuring over a gloomy precipice, 
suddenly open on the eye. The rocks of Point Le- 
vi, and the elevated promontory, on whose sides 
the city of Quebec is placed, seem to bound the 
channel of the great river. The north side of the 
town is terminated by the Saint Charles. The set- 
tlement of Beauport, in extent about seven miies^ 
intervenes bet\veen the Montmorenci and Que- 
bec; and is situated on a declivity, extending 
from the hills to the Saint Lawrence, whose banks 
gradually slope towards the little river of Beau- 
port, from whose western borders the land be- 
comes level. A chain of mountains towards the 
north intercepts the view. 

G 



qUlEBEC. 



CHAPTER IV. 

:^iebeC'-'descrzption of that city — romantic situation"-^ 
natural strength — religious orders^ and their es*a- 
blishments — ship-building — interesting scene dis- 
played from Point Levi — extensive and grand land- 
scape presented from the heights to the westward 
cf the garrison — River Montmorenci — natural steps 
"-^sublime "waterfall — basin^ and its strata — descrip- 
tion of the Fall as seen from the coast of the Sai?it 
Lawrence. 

FROM the period at which Jacques Cartier 
visited and explored the river Saint Lawrence, 
until the year 1603, no serious efforts were made 
by Europeans for tlie formation of a settlement in 
Canada. A space of nearly a century was suffer- 
ed to elapse, without any other advantage having 
been derived from the discovery of this part of 
the continent of Nordi America, than that of the 
precarious profits which accrued to some adven- 
tuiers, by carrying on ^ith the native inhabitants, 
^vho frequented the coasts of the gieat river, an 
inconsiderable traffic in peltry. 

At length, in the rera mentioned above, Samuel 
de Champiain, a man of enterprize and talent, ac- 
tuated by liberal sentiments, and by patriotic^ 
more than by interested views, arter having sur- 
ve) ed tlie borders of the river, for the choice of a 



qufiBEc. 75 

situation presenting the greatest conveniences for 
a settlement, gave the preference to an elevated 
promontory, between the Saint Lawrence and the 
small river Saint Charles. It is asserted, that some 
of his attendants, having pronounced at first view 
of this point of land, the words " Quel bee !" 
Champlain bestowed that name on his projected 
town. After erecting some huts for the shelter 
of his people, he began to clear the environs, from 
the woods with which they Vvcre covered. 

The spot which Champlain designed as a foun- 
dation of a future city, did no less credit to his 
judgment than to his taste. Its superior altitude 
and natural strength, afforded the advantage of its 
being in time rendered, by the labours of engi- 
neers, a respectable and formidable fortress. 

Cape Diamond, the summit of the promonto- 
ry, rises abruptly on the south, to the height of 
three hundred and fifty perpendicular feet above 
the river; advances from the line of the banks on 
the west ; and forms tlic Ajice de Ma\ a small 
harbour, occupied for the purpose of ship-build- 
ing. Some uneven ground subsides into a valley, 
between the works and tlie heights of Abraham ; 
on the latter there are natural elevations, which 
are higher by a few feet, than any of the grounds 
included v/ithin the fortifications. 

In 1690, Quebec was first fortified with eleven 
stone redoubts, v/hich served as bastions, com- 
municating with each others by curtains composec? 



76 quEBEC. 

ofpallisades ten feet in height, strengthened in the 
interior with earth. No other defence was, for 
many years, provided against the hostile attempts ^ 
of the Iroquois, and other savage tribes who were I 
inimical to the French settlers. The ruins of fivo 
of these redoubts are yet extant. 

The citadal is now constructed on the highest 
part of Cape Diamond, composed of a Vv hole bas- 
tion, a curtain and half-bastion, from whence it 
extends along the summit of the bank towards the 
north-east ; tliis part being adapted v/ith flanks, 
agreeably to the situation of the ground. There 
are, towards the south-west, a ditch, counter- 
guard, and covered-way, with glacis. The works 
have, of late years, been in a great measure re- 
built, and raised to a pitch calculated to command 
the high grounds in the vicinity. 

. When viewed from a small distance, they ex- 
hibit a handsome appearance. A steep and rug- 
ged bank, about fifty feet in height, terminates the 
ditch and glacis, on the north, tov/ards which the 
ground slopes downwards from Cape Diamond, 
nearly three hundred feet, in a distance of about 
nine hundred yards. Along the summit of the 
bank a strong wall of stone, nearly forty feet high, 
having a half and a whole flat bastion with small 
flanks, occupies a space of two hundred yards, to 
Palace- gate, at which there is a guard-house. 
From hence to the new works at Hope- gate, is a 
distance of about three hundred yards. The rocky 



eininence increases in steepness and elevation as 
far as the bishop's palace ; near which there is a 
strong battery of heavy cannon, extending a con- 
considerable way along the brow of the precipice, 
and commanding the basin, and part of the river. 
Between the edifice now mentioned, and the low- 
er town, a steep passage, partly formed by nature, 
intervenes ; over which there is a barrier, with a 
gate- way of stone, surmounted by a guard-house: 
and this communication is otherwise defended by 
powerful w^orks of stone, under the palace on one 
side, and on the other stretching upwards towards 
the government-house, where the bank becomes 
considerably more elevated. This buildingv 
which is dignified with the appellation qS. chateau ^ 
or casde of St. Louis, is placed on the brink of a 
precipice, inaccessible, and whose altitude ex- 
ceeds tv/o hundred feet. The building is sup- 
ported by counterforts, rising to half its height, 
and sustaining a gallery I'he apdrtments are 
occupied as offices for the civil and m.ilitary branch- 
es, acting immediately under the orders of the 
governor 'general of British America, v^^ho 
likewise commands tht troops, and whose resi- 
dence is in a building of more modern construc- 
tion, forming the opposite side oia square. The 
apartments are spacious and piam : but the struc- 
ture has nothing external to recommend it. Up- 
Qn the brmk of the precipitous rock, a stone wail 
G 2 



78 qUEBEC. 

is extended from the old chateau, for a distance 
of about thi^e hundred yards to the westward, 
which forms a line of defence ; and serves as a 
boundary to the garden, within which are two 
small batteries, one rising above the other. 

Cape Diamond, nearly tw^o hundred feet high- 
crthan the ground on which the upper town is 
siiuated, presents itself to the westward. From 
the garrison there are five gates, or outlets to the 
neighbouring country : the highest. Port Saint 
Louis, opens to the westv/ard, and towards the 
heights of x^braham ; Port Saint John, towards 
Saint Foix, through v. hich is the road to Mon- 
treal ; Palace and Hope-gate open towards the ri- 
ver Saint Charles and the north ; and Prescott- 
gate affords a communication to the lower town 
on the south-east. 

In most of the public buildings, no great 
degree of taste or elegance can be discovered, al- 
though much labour and expence must have been 
bestowed on their construction. The architects 
seem principally to have had in view, strength 
and durability, and not to have paid much regard 
to those rules of their art, which combine sym- 
ii:etry with utility. 

The cathedral church of the catholics, is a long, 
elevated, and plain building of stone, with the 
spire on one side of its front. The internal ap- 
pearance is neat and spacious : and it is capable 



qUEBEC. 79 

df containing about three thousand persons* A 
good organ has here lately been introduced. 

The Jesuits' college, originally founded at 
Quebec in 1635, Kas been, since that period, re- 
built ; and is a large stone edifice, three stories 
high, of nearly a square figure, containing an a- 
rca in its centre. The garden is of some extent ; 
and has, at one end, a grove of trees, part of which 
is a remain of the original woods, with which 
the promontory was once covered. 

The society of Jesuits which became establish- 
ed in Canada, formerly composed a numerous 
body : and their college was considered as the 
first iristitution, on the continent of North Ame- 
rica, for the instruction of young men. The ad- 
vantages derived from it, were not limited to the 
better classes of Canadians ; but were extended 
to all whose inclination it was to participate in 
them : and many students came thither, from 
the West Indies. From the period of the expul- 
sion of the Jesuits from the states of Europe, and 
the consequent abolition of their order on that 
continent, this establishment, although protected 
b}' the British government, began rapidly to de- 
cline. The last member of that fraternity died a 
few years ago : and the buildings, as well as lands, 
v/hich form an extensive domain, devolved to the 
crown. 

^rhe landed property was designed by the so- 
vereigu as a reeompence for the services of the 



80 ^ (QUEBEC. 

late Lord Amherst, who commanded the troops 
in North America, at the time of the conquest of 
Canada, and who completed the reduction of 
that province, under the British goverrmient. 
The claim to these estates has been rehnquished 
by his successor, for a pension. The revenue 
arising from them, has been appropriated by the 
legislature of Lower Canada, for the purpose of 
establishing in the different parishes, schools for 
the education of children, I'he Jesuits' college 
is now converted into a commodious barrack for 
the troops. 

The seminary, a building of some extent, 
forming three sides of a square open towards the 
north-west, contains a variety of apartments^ 
suited for the accommodation of a certain num- 
ber of ecclesiastics, and of young students, who 
are of the Roman Catholic religion. This insti- 
tution owes its foundation to M. de Petre, who, 
in 1663, obtained from the King of France, let- 
ters patent for that purpose. Tythes were enjoin- 
ed to be paid by the inhabitants, to the directors 
of the seminary, for its support : and a thirteenth^ 
in addition to what was already the right of the 
church, was levied. This regulation being 
found too oppressive, was altered to a twenty- 
sixth part of the ])roduce, to be paid in grain p 
from which tax newly cleared lands were exempt- 
ed, for a space ot five yeai s. 

'iiie laenioers ot the seminary are composed 



QUEBEC. 81 

of a superior, three directors, and six or seven 
masters, who are appointed to instruct young 
men in the different branches of education, pro- 
fessed by each. Since the dechne and extinc- 
tion of the order of Jesuits, the seminary, which 
Was at first exclusively designed for the educa- 
tion of priests ; and, excepting the college of 
Montreal, is the only public establishment of the 
kind in the province, is now open to all young 
men of the catholic faith, although they may not 
be destined for the sacerdotal function. The 
north-east aspect of this building is agreeable in 
summer, having uixier it a spacious garden, 
which extends to near the precipice on the east, 
and overlooks the lower town. 

The monastery, with the church and garden 
of the RecoUets, which occupied the western side 
of the spot called Place d' Armes, are now rased 
to the foundation ; the buildings having been 
destroyed by fire in 1 796> and the order to which 
they were appropriated, having since that period, 
become extinct. 

Two new edifices have lately been erected, 
upon that site ; the one, a protestant metropoii- 
taa church, the other a house for the courts of 
law. They are both constructed with the best 
materials, which this part of the country affords, 
and executed in a neat and handsome style. 
The church, although not much ornamented, 
may be pronounced elegant, the rules of archi- 



^2 (QUEBEC. * ' 

tecture having been adhered to in its structure. 
Considered as ornaments to the city oi Quebec, 
it is to be regretted, that separate situations have 
not been allotted for them ; and that in a country 
where pubhc buildings capable of attracting notice 
are rarely to be met with, two edifices of such 
eonsequence should have been placed so near 
to each other. 

The Hotel Dieu, with its gardens, occupies a 
large extent of ground. It was founded in 1638 
by the Duchess d'Aiguillon, who sent from the 
hospital at Dieppe three nuns, for the purpose of 
commencing this charitable and useful institulrion. 
It consists of a superior, and tw enty-seven sis- 
ters, v/hose principal occupation is to assist, and 
to administer medicines and food to invalids of 
both sexes, who may be sent to the hospital, and 
who are lodged in wards, where much regard is 
paid to cleanliness. 

The convent of the Ursulines was instituted in 
1639, by Madame de la Peltrie,,a young widow 
of condition, in France, It is possessed by a su- 
perior, and thirty-six nuns, who are chiefiy en- 
gaged in the instruction of young vromen. The 
building is spacious, and has extensive gardens 
annexed to it 

The bishop's palace, already mentioned, situa- 
ted near the communication with the lower to^^'u^ 
has been, f>r several years, occupied for public 
offices, and for a library. The Ciiapei has been 



cenverfed into a rogiu, ior the meeting of the pro^ 
Tiiiciai asserr.bly of representatives. 

Another edifice on the north side of the town, 
extending in length from Palace-gate to the ram- 
parts on the west, upwards of five Jiundred feet 
in length, contains a number of vau: ted apart- 
ments ; and is occupied for the office oi ordn^ince, 
for barracks for the royal artillery, for an armou- 
ry, store-houses and Avork-shops, and for a pub- 
lic goal, which forms the east end ol the building. 
The ruins of a large house, which was former- 
ly that of the intendant, remain on a fiat ground 
on the banks of the river Saint Charles, and in the 
suburbs of Saint Roc. This was once called a 
•palace; because the council of the French go- 
vernment in North America there assembled. 
The apartments, which were numerous and spa- 
cious, were furnished with magnificence and 
splendour. On one side of the court, were plac- 
ed the king's store-houses, w^hich, together with 
the palace, were consumed by fire, occasioned by 
a shell thrown from the garrison in 1775, when 
the town was blockaded by the Americans, with 
a view to dislodge some of the hostile troops, who 
h..d taken shelter in these buildino-s. 

The general hospital, on the banks of the Saint 
Charles, about a mile v» estv^ard from the garrison, 
ai;d surrounded by meadow lands, \^'as founded 
in 1693, by M. de Sai..t Vallier, Bishop of Que- 
bec, widiLUe benevolent design of afibrding sup- 



S4 q^UEBKt. 

port and relief to the poor, the infirm, the sickj 
and the wounded : nor have the purposes of its 
original founder at any time been defeated Vvith 
regard to the most scrupulous exactitude in their 
fulfilment. The extent of the building, whose 
form is that of a parallelogram, is considerable : 
and it contains a variety of apartments, neat and 
commodious. A superior and thirty-seven sisters 
compose the community. Their time which re- 
mains Ircm the occupations of the duties of reli- 
gion, and the offices of humanity, is employed in 
gilding ornaments for the decoration of churcheSj, 
and in several other w:orks, at which they are ex- 
pert. 

The streets of Quebec are, in consequence of 
its situation, irregular and uneven : many of them 
are narrow ; and but very few are paved. The 
houses are built of stone ; are of unequal iieights j 
and covered, in general, with roofs of boards. 
The roughness of the materials of which thej' are 
constructed, gives them a rugged aspect : and 
the accommodations are fitted up in a style equal- 
ly plain and void of taste. The frequent accidents 
which have happened, and the extensive damage 
which the town has repeatedly sustained from 
corifiagrations, have suggested the expediency of 
covering the public buildings, and many of the 
dwelling-houses, with tin, or painted sheet-iron. 

The lower town, which is the principal phce 
of commerce, occupies the ground at the basis o^ 



the promontory, which has been gradually gained 
from the cliiFs on one side, by mining, and from 
the river on the other, by the construction of 
wharfs. The channel is here about a mile in 
breadth, to Point Levi, on the opposite shore : 
and its greatest depth at high water, is thirty fa- 
thonls, the anchorage being every v/here safe and 
good. ' 

Since the year 1793, ship-building has been 
carried on with considerable success : and vessels 
of every description and dimension, from fifty to 
a thousand tons burthen, have been constructed. 
The materials are found in abundance in the 
sountry : but the anchors, sails, and cordage, 
are generally imported. As the tide usually ri- 
ses eighteen feet, and at spring tides twenty-four 
feet, there is no difficulty in finding situations for 
dock -yards. 

The rock, of which the promontory of Quebec 
is composed, consists of a species of black lime 
slate, varying in thickness ; which, although ap- 
parently compact, may, by the stroke of a ham- 
mer, be shivered into very thin pieces: and, by 
exposure to the influence of the wealher, it mouL 
ders into soil. A considerable number of the 
houses of the town, is built of this stone : and 
there is a mode of placing it, by which, in mason- 
ry, its durability may be considerably prolonged. 

The inhabitants, covnpreiiended in Quebec, 
H 



86 (QUEBEC. 

and in the suburbs of Saint John and Saint Rotj 
may be computed at about fifteen thousand. 

When viewed from Point Levi, on the oppo- 
site coast of the nver, an interesting variety of 
objects is exhibited, by massy rocks, interspers- 
ed with shrubbery ; by Cape Diamond, boldly 
rising from the water ; by the houses along its 
base, contrasted with the overhanging cliiFs ; by 
a confused cluster of buildings overtopping each 
other up the side of the hill ; and by the fortifica- 
tions which crown the summit. The Saint Lav/- 
rence flowing on one side, and the Saint Charles 
on the other, give to this spot, the appearance of 
an island. The bridge across the latter is like- 
wise visible from hence : and remote mountains 
terminate the prospect. 

The scene, in winter, becomes amusing to 
strangers ; particularly, if the ice on the great ri- 
ver, between Quebec, and the opposite coast of 
Fuint Levi, be closely fixed, a circumstance 
w liich depends more upon accident, than on the 
severity of cold ; and does net frequently occur. 
W ben the ice becomes consolidated and station- 
ary, it is called, by the Canadians, the /?o«^, which 
ai][o] ds, not only to the country people inhabit- 
ing: the neighlx)uring parishes on the south side, 
a facility of conveying their produce to market, 
ar.id thereby of rendering provisions aixl provender 
more abundant in the town ; but likewise pre- 
sents a large field for gratification and exercise^ 



RIVER MONTMORliNCI. 87 

to the citizens, who then are constantly drislng 
their horses and carriages, upon the solid surxace 
of the stream. 

From the heights to the westward of the gar- 
rison, an extensive and beautifiii view, is develop- 
ed, in summer, to the eye of the spectator. It 
is composed of the works, part of the loftier build- 
ings of the town, the basin, Point Levi, the island 
of Orleans, the south and north channels, the pa- 
rishes of Beauport, Ange Gardien, and chateau 
Richer, with the mountains on the north-east, 
stretching to Cape Tourment. 

The river Montmorenci, which empties itself 
mto tiie Saint Lawrence, at the distance of eight 
miles to the north-east of Quebec, was called after a 
marechal of that narnx, who was viceroy of New 
France. Passing through a course from the 
north-east, of considerable length, the first settle- 
ment through which it Hows, is called La Motte, 
situated on the northern extremity of a sloping 
ground, which gradually descends from the moun- 
tains, to the coast of the great river. At La Mot- 
te, the waters diiTase themselves into shallovv' cur- 
rents, interrupted by rocks, which break them 
into foam, accompanied by murmuring sounds, 
tending to enliven the solitude and solemn still- 
ness, which prevail throughout the surrounding 
forests, and on the desolate hills. The channel 
t)f the river, farther down, is bounded by preci-. 
pitoui rocKs: its bre:idui becomes extremely 



88 RIVER MONTMORENCI. 

contracted : and the nipidity of its current is pf©- 
portionably augniented. At a place called the 
Tiatural steps^ there are cascades of the height of 
te.i, or twelve feet. These steps have been gra- 
dually formed, by the accession of waters which 
the river receives in its progress, at the break- 
ing up of winter, and by the melting of snows. 
From the middle of April, to the end of May, its | 
waters roll along with an increasing j^eight and 
rapidity. The banks, from the natural steps, i 
downwards to the Saint Lawrence, are composed ■ 
of a lime slate, placed in horizontal strata, from 
the depth of five to twenty-four inches each, con- 
nected by fibrous gypsum of a whitish colour, i 
The waters, at the season already mentioned, ^ 
powerfully impelled in their course, insinuate 
themselves between the strata ; dissolve the gyp- 
sum ; and tear the horizontal rock ; which gives || 
way, in fragments of various sizes, yielding to the 
rushing violence of the sweeping torrent. The 
regularity displayed in the formation of some of 
these steps, is well deserving of observation. 

On the east side, the bank is almost perpendicu- 
lar ; is nearly fifty feet in altitude ; and is cover- 
ed at the- summit, with trees. The south-west 
bank rises beyonct the steps. In looking down- 
wards it appears also wooded ; and terminates m 
a precipice. The bank on the opposite side, as- 
sumes a regularity of shape, so singular, as to re- 
semble the rums of a lofty wall. Somew^hat below, 



RIVER MONTMORENCI. §V 

die banks on each side, are clothed with trees^ 
which, together with the effect produced by the 
foaming currents, and the scattered masses of 
stone, compose a scene, wild and picturesque. 
From hence, taking a south direction, the stream 
is augmented in velocity ; and forms a cascade 
interrupted by huge rocks : and at a distance far- 
ther down, of five hundred yards, a similar ef- 
fect is produced After thus exhibiting a grate= 
ful variety throughout its course, the river is pre« 
cipitated in an almost perpendicular direction, 
over a rock of the height of tvro hundred and for- 
ty-six feet, failing, where it touches the rock, in 
white clouds of rolling foam ; and underneath, 
where it is propelled with uninterrupted gravita- 
tion, in numerous flakes, like wool or cotton, 
which are gradually protracted in their descentj 
until they are received into the boiling, profound 
abyss, below. 

Viewed from the summit of the cliff*, from 
whence they are throw^n, the v/aters, with 
every concomitant circumstance, produce an ef 
feet awfully grand, and wonderfully sublime. 
The prodigious depth of their descent, the bright-" 
iiess and volubility of their course, the swiftness 
^f their movement through the air, and the loud 
and hollow noise emitted from the basin, swell- 
ing with incessant agiti.tion from the weight of 
the dashing waters, forcibly combine to attract 
the attention, and to impress Vviih bentniients of 
' H 2 



90 RIVER MONTMORENCr. 

grandeur and eievttion, the mind oi the spectator. 
The clouda of vapour arising, fxnd assuming the 
prismatic colours, contribute to enHven the scene. 
They fly olTfrom the fall in the form of a revolv- 
ing sphere, emitting with velocity, pointed flakes 
of spr ly, which spread in receding, until inter- 
cepted by neighbouring banks, or dissolved in 
the atmosphere. 

The breadth of the fall is one hundred feet. 
The basin is bounded by steep cliffs, composed 
of grey lime slate, lying in inclined strata, which, 
on the east and west sides, are subdivided into 
innumerable thin shivers, forming with the hori- 
zon, an angle of forty-five degrees, and contain- 
ing between them, fibrous gypsum and pierre a 
calumet.^ Mouldering incessantly, by exposure 
to the air, and to the action of the weather, no 
surface for vegetation remains upon these sub* 
stances. 

An advantageous view of the fall may be ob- 
tained from the beach, when the tide of the great 
river is low. In this are included, the east bank 
of the river, the point of Ange Gardien, and 
Cape Tourment. The south-west point of the 
basin, becomes the nearest object, beyond which 
appears the cataract of resplendent beauty, foam- 
ing down the gloomy precipice, whose summits 
are crowned with woods. Its reflection from the 
\^^A beneath, forms a contrast to the shade thr -vn 

^ Soft stoncj of wlucU ibe heads of p^pesj ^-e sometimes formed 



RIVER MONTMORENCI. 9i 

by the neighbouring cliffs The diffusion of the 
stream, to a breadth ol live lumdred yards, with 
the various small cascades produced by the ine- 
qualities in its rocky bed, on its way to the Saint 
Lawrence, display a singular and pleasing com- 
bination- It runs for about four hundred yards, 
through a wdde and steep gulph, which it is gene- 
rally supposed, that its waters have excavated. 
Oiie circumstance seems, however, to controvert 
this conjecture. The bed beneath, over which 
the river flows, is invariably composed of a solid 
stratum of rock, over several parts of which, there 
are fords for the passage of carriages. The ge- 
neral depth of v/ater, does not here exceed eight 
inches : but partial channels have been worn by 
the stream, few of which are ab(3ve three or four 
feet in depth. There appeal^ no vestige of any 
deep excavation, except in the vicinity of the fall^ 
which, if it had ever receded from the Saint Law- 
rence, must have formed in the solid bed of rock, 
basins of considerable depth. I'he ford being, 
in most places, rugged and unequal, its passage 
is unpleasant, and not altogether sate. 



92 JEUNE LORETTE, 



CHAPTER V. 



feline Lorette-— domiciliated natives-'^mode of dancing 
— the Saint Charles — cascades on that river — the 
Chaudiere — description of its fall — appearance in 
•winter — island of Orleans — views from thence—^ 
soV — north coast of the Saint Lawrence — Cape 
Tourment — River Saint Anne — its waterfalls'^ 
lower fall described — La Puce — romantic falls oj 
that little river — various landscapes — Lake Saint 
Charles — picturesque combiiiations* 

- JEUNE LORE'I'TE is situated nine miles 
to the north-west of Quebec, upon a tract of land 
which rises towards the mountains. It com- 
mands, by its elevated position, an extensive 
view of the river Saint Lawrence, of Quebec, of 
the intermediate countr\\ of the southern coast, and 
of the mountains which separate Canada from the 
United States* I'he village, which contains up- 
Avards of two hundred inhabitants, consists of a- 
bout fifty houses, constructed of wood and stone, 
which have a decent appearance. 

The chapel ib small, but neat ; and the parish 
e>' tending to a considerable way around, the Ca- 
nadians, who form the greatest number of parish- 
ioners, have lately procured a church to be erect- 
ed for their accommodation, about a quarter of a 
mile from tlie village. The Indians attend, with 



JEUNE LORETTE. * 93 

scrupulous observance, to the performance of 
then' devotions. The women are placed in the 
centre of the chapel : and the men arrange them- 
selves on each side, and on the rear. The for- 
mer have in general good voices : and both sex- 
es seem to evince a considerable degree of ferven- 
cy, in the exercise of their religious duties. 

They live together in a state of almost uninter- 
rupted harmony and tranquillity. The missiona- 
ry has a great influence over them : and they 
have exchanged, in some degree, the manners of 
savage life, for those of the Canadians, in whose 
vicinity thtj reside. 

The quantity of land they occupy in cultivation, 
is about two hundred acres, which they plant with 
Indian corn, or maize. A number of the men 
pursue the chace, during thcwinter season. The 
French language is spoken by them with consi- 
derable ease : and the men, in general, notwith- 
standing their partial civilization, maintain that 
independance, w'hich arises from the paucity and 
limitation of their w^ants, and which constitutes a 
principal feature in the savage character. 

This nation originally frequented the vicinity 
of lake Huron, near a thousand miles from Que- 
bec. It was once the most formidable and fierce, 
of any tribe that inhabited those quarters, dveaded 
even by the Iroquois ; who, however, fouiid 
means to subjugate, and almost to extirpate it, 
by pretending to enter into an alliance. I'he 



94 JEUNE LORETTE. 

Hurons, too blindly relying on the protestations 
of the Iroquois, the latter seized an opportunity, 
to surprise and slaughter them. The village now 
described, was composed of apart of the Hurons 
who escaped from tlie destruction of their tribe ;. 
and is occupied by the descendants of that peo- 
ple. 

We assembled together in the evening, a num- 
ber of males and females of the village, who re- 
peatedly performed their several dances, descrip 
tive of their manner of going to vv^ar; of watch ^ 
ing to ensnare the enemy ; and of returning' 
with the captives they were supposed to have 
surprised. The instrument chiefly in use in the 
dances, is a calibash filled v/ith small pebbles, Call 
ed chichicoiiff^ which is shaken by the hand in of- 
der to mark the cadence, for tlie voices and the 
movements. They are strangers to melody in 
their songs, being totally unacquainted Vv^th mu- 
sic. The syllabies V/hicli they enounce, are yo^ 
he, waw. These are invariiibly repeated, the be- 
holders beating time v/ith their hands and feet. 
The dancers move their limbs but a little way 
fi'om the ground, v/hich they beat with violence. 
Their dancing, and their music, are uniformly 
rude and disgusting : and the only circumstance 
which can recompense a civilised spectator, for 
the penance sustained by his ear, amid this bois» 
terous roar, and clash of discordant sounds, is, 
that to each dance is annexed the representation 



JEUNE LORETTE. »S 

«f some action, peculiar to the habits of savage 
life ; and that, by seeing their dances performed, 
some idea may be acquired, of the mode of con- 
ducting their uaim.proved system of warfare. 

The river Saint Charles, called by the natives, 
Cabir Coubat^ on account of the curvatures of its 
channel, after winding for a few miles to the south- 
west of the lake of that name, passes the Indian 
-village, and rolls over a steep and irregular rock, 
of die altitude of thirty feet, forming a beauthiil 
and romantic cataract. In passing a mill, which 
is under the fall, the current becomes extremely 
narrow ; and, for a space of three miles, is bound- 
ed by woody banks, on vvhich there are frequent 
openings cut through the trees, disclosing the 
rushing waters. The rapidity of the stream, op- 
posed by rocks, produces quantities of white foam 
upon its gloomy surface, accompanied by mur- 
muring sounds. The waterfall, with the smaller 
cascades above it, the mill, the bridge, the village, 
and the distant hills, present an agreeable land- 
scape. 

About three leagues to the eastward of Lorette, 
the village of Charlebourg is situated. This pa- 
rish is populous and well cultivated, being one of 
the oldest settlements on that side of the river 
Saint Charles. The church stands on rising 
ground about a league to the north of Quebec : 
and the village, from the altitude of its position, 
commands a rich and extensive prospect. The 



%' RIVER CHAUDIERE. 

lands are six miles in depth, and form part of the 
seigneurie of the Jesuits. 

The river Chaudiere empties itself into the Saint 
Laurence, about eight miles to the south-west of 
Quebec. Its mouth is confined by woody banks ; 
and contains depth of water to admit a ship of 
considerable size. This stream iiows from Lake 
Megantic, through a course, north and north- 
west, for a distance of one hundred and twenty 
•miles. 

The falls are about four miles from its mouth : 
and the road thither being, for the greatest part 
through woods, it is necessary, even for those 
that have already visited them, to take as a guide, 
one of the neighbouring inhabitants. The sum- 
mit of the foils is about one hundred and twenty 
yards in breadth : and, in the spring of the year, 
the waters flow^ abundantly, swoln by the increase 
which they receive, from the dissolving snows 
of the country through which they run, and from 
tributary streams, which, at this season, are like- 
wise augmented by the same causes. 

The month of May appears to be the most ad- 
vantageous period, at which to contemphte this 
interesting scene ; the approach to which ought 
first to be made from the top of the banks, as in 
emerging from the woods, it conducts at once to 
the summit of the cataract, where the objects 
which instantaneously become developed to the 



eye, strike the iiiind with surprise, and produce a 
wonderiui and powerful impression. 

The waters descend from a height of one hun- 
dred and twenty fett; and, being separated by 
rocks, form three distinct cataracts the largest of 
"ivhich is on the western side, and they unite, in 
the basin beneath, their broken and agitated waves. 
The form oi" the rock forces a part of the waters, 
into an oblique direction, and advances them be- 
yo -d the line of the precipice. The cavities 
worn in the rocks, produce a pleasing variety; 
and cause the descending waters to revolve with 
foaming iury, to whose wliiteness the gloomy cliffs, 
present a strong opposition of colour. The va- 
pour from each division of the foils, quickly 
mounting through the air, bestows an enlivening 
beauty on the landscape. 

The wild diversity displayed by the banks of 
the stream, and the foliage of the overhanging 
w^oods, the briiiiaiicy of colours richly Cv ntrasted, 
the rapidity of motion, the effulgent brightness of 
the cataracts, the deep and solemn sound which 
they emit, and the various Cdscades further down 
the river, unite in rendering this, such ^ pleasing 
exhibition of natural objects, as lew scenes can 
surpass. 

On descending the side of the river, the iand- 
sccpe beco I itcs considerably altered; and the fails 
appear to great advantage. Masses of rock, and 
elevated points oi lana covered with trees, toge- 

l 



^S RIVER €HAUDIER£. 

tber with the smaller cascades on the stream, pre- 
sent a rich assemblage, terminated by the falls. 
The scenery in proceeding down the river, is 
rugged and wild. 

The gratification derived, in the beginning of 
shimmer, from the contemplation of such scenes 
as that which has now been described, is consi- 
derably damped by a reflection on the short dura- 
tion of the period allotted for beholding them with 
comfort. Myriads of winged insects, hostile to the 
repose of man, will shortly infest the borders of this 
river. \V hen the warm weather, which consists not 
of one hali the year, is expired, the ungenial win- 
ter will resume its domination ^ and the falls them- 
selves, except an inconsiderable part of them, 
must, notwithstanding the rapidity of their course, 
become a solid body. 

Viewed in the winter season, the falls exhibit 
an appearance more curious than pleasiiig ; be- 
ing, for the greatest part coitgeaied, and the ge- 
neral form of the congelated masses, is that of a 
concretion of icicles, v\ hich resembles a cluster 
of pillars in gothic architecture ; and may not im- 
properly be compared to the pipes of an organ. 
The spray becomes likewise consolidated iiito 
three masses, or sections of a cone, externally 
convex, but concave to^\ards the lails. J htwtst 
side, being usually the only place in which the 
waters flow, the aspect is nifiniteiy imerior to liiat 
idispiayed in summer ; and tiie sound emitted^ is 



ISLAND or ORLEANS. 9^ 

comparatively faint. The surrounding objects^ 
covered alike \vith snov/, present one iii^ifonn 
glare. The rocks, and the bed of the river, dis- 
guised by unshapely Vvhite masses, produce a re- 
flection, which gives, even to the Vvutcrs cf the 
cataract, an apparent tinge of obscurity. 

The island of Orleans, rising iVoni the river 
Saint Lawrence, in some parts with steep a^d 
v/oodcd banks, in others with more gentle ascent, 
presents to the eye an agreeable object. Its ne<.r- 
t^st point is six miles to the north-east of Quebec* 
A favourable view of the neighbouring country 
is aftbrded from its higher grounds, particukiriy 
of the scenery on the north, which is divtrsilied, 
bold, and extensive. The flili of Montmorenci 
discloses itself from hence, amidst a rich and en- 
chanting combination of features. The central 
part of this island is clothed vvith trees : and the 
ground sloping from it on either side, few emi- 
nences occur, to interrupt the ^iew. The parish- 
es of Ange Gardien and Chateau Richer, are there 
seen to great advantage. From hence the river 
la Puce^ on the opposite coast, at the distance of 
five miles, by an engaging display of natural at- 
tractions, invites the attention of the traveller. 
It roils its current, broken into a refulgent white- 
ness equalling that of snow, from the summit of 
a lofty hill ; and afterwards conceals itself mid- 
way, behind an intervening eminence of inferior 
^liiiude^ ciotiied witii trees. The motioa of iX^ 



loo ISLAND 0^ ORLEANS. 

waters is perceptible: i-iid the reflection of liglit 
arising from the fall, glistening with the niys of 
the siHK produces a pc-v. crful contrast with the deep 
veidiire of the forests by which it is environed. 

At the lov» er extremity of the island, there are 
situations no less bold than picturesque. The 
north shore is interspersed with ininiense masses 
of detached limestone-rock The south side is 
clothed ^vith trees to the borders of the ^reat ri- I 
ver; from either, are seen Cape Trurment, the 
isles and the mountains named Les Eboule- 
ments, which pierce the clouds with their pointed 
summits The soil of the islund is^ in general/ 
fertile, affording more produce th'^n is necessary 
for the consumption of its inhabitants. Not many 
years ago, it w^as for t'uo successive seasons^ visit^^ 
cd by a scourge, which swept away, in its pro- 
gress, the whole productions of the land. The 
grasshoppers, which are in a great degree multi- 
plied, by the too long continuance of dry weather^ 
appeared in such redundancy of swarms, as to 
consume every ^•egetable substance, and almost 
totally to cover the surilice of the ground. When, 
by their destructive ravages, the island became 
so denuded of verdure, as no longer to afford 
them the means of sustenance, they assembled on 
the water in clusters, resembling small rafts ; and 
floated w ith the tide and wind, along the basin of 
the Saint Lawrence, to Quebec ; where they filled 
the aecks and cordage ol the vessels at anchor ;. 



ISLAND OF ORLEA^^g. lOi 

and attcrwards betook themselves, through the 
tOvva to the ramparts, which, haviag stripped of 
grass, they proceeded in separate columns, 
through the country to the southward. A con* 
siderable part of their number probably perished 
in the voyage from the island : and the rem linder, 
having a greater extent of territory over which to 
spread, their depredations became less perceptible. 

Orleans contains five parishes, two of whichj 
Saint Piere, and Saint Famille, are on the north 
side ; and three on the south, Saint Frangois, 
Saint John, and Saint Lavvrent. The number 
of its inhabitants amounts to about two thousand. 

The channels which separate the island from 
the continent, are each about a league in breadth* 
The banks, on its western side, consist, for a con- 
siderable way down the Coast, of black lime-slate, 
covered with soil, generated fi'om the decompo- 
sition of that substance, and the annual decay of 
vegetable productions. The rocks of those on 
the eastern extremity, are mixed with grey quartz, 
reddish limestone, and grey limestone, combined 
with pale, grains of sand. 

From the parish of Ange Gardien, to the base 
of Cape Tourment, throughout an extent of 
eighteen miles, the coast is composed of fertile 
meadow land, varying in breadth, bounded on the 
north by steep and lofty banks, from whence the 
ground rises in gentle acclivities to the bases of 
the hills. By the reflux of the tide, a swamp o£ 
I '2, 



102 ivORTH COAST OF THE 

a mile in width, is here ie I uncovered; and oii- 
so lie parts oi the coast of Orleans, there are sim- 
ilar muddy grounds. In spring and autumn, these 
situations are frequented by great numbers of 
snipes, plover, and wild ducks. 

In the midst of meadows, near Cape Tour- 
ment a narrov/ !jill, about a mile in length, 
and flat on its summit, rises to the height of about 
a hundred feet. A large dwelling-house, with ( 
chapel and other buildings, are placed towards i 
the eastern extremity ; thither the ecclesiastics of . 
the seminary of Quebec, to vrhom these lands be- 4 
k)iig, retire in autumn. j 

Between the cape and the adjoining mountainsj j 
a lake is formed, the height of whose situation is 
several hundred feet above the level of the Saint I 
L.< wrence. The parish of Saint Joachim is popu- j 
ious, and the soil is rich ; being equally adapted \ 
to pasturage, and to cultivation. It is separated 
frora the parish of Saint Anne, by a stream of 
considerable magnitude, called A/ Grande Eiviere^^ \ 
or the Saint Anne. 

In travelling to the interior settlements, after ] 
having ascended two steep and iofty banks, or ele- i 
vations from one plain to another, the road is con- j 
tinned for upvv^ards of four miies through a forest \ 
composed of poplar, birch, beech, fir, and ash '\ 
trees, in which tiiere are some ot Ciiings, disclos- \ 
ing an elevated mountain, \ 

The settlement of S^iiiu f eriole extends itself for : 



ilear nine miles <>vcr a caiDiin gradually ascendip.g, 
whose superior altitude ontributes to increase 
the cold of the climate, and to reader the la id 
less productive. Necessity has induced an hun- 
dred families to fix their abode in this remote si- 
tuation, where, if their industry be less copiously 
rewarded, and if the coid, which predominates 
longer in winter, and commences much earlier in 
autumn than in the lower parts, sometimes check 
the vegetation of grain, and impede its advance- 
ment to maturit}^ there is, notwithstanding, no 
appearance of indigence among the inhabitants. 

On turning his eyes towards the country he 
has already passed, the traveller is gratified by a 
luxuriant and diversified assemblage of objects, 
which, like a chart, seems to expand itself be- 
neath. x\fter descending a hill clothed with trees, 
and of about seven hundred feet in perpendicular 
elevation, we gained the side of the river which 
llovvs through this settlement, and of which we 
have already spoken. There are no less than se- 
ven falls of this river, v/hich are near to each, o- 
ther; and are formed in its current from the 
summit, to the basis of a steep and lofty moun- 
tain, after having held its course for a distance of 
several miles, along a ridge of high lands. The 
stream does not exceed forty yards in width, and 
the principal and lower fall, which is on the nor^th- 
east, is one hui^lred and thirty feet high It has 
formerly flowed through another channel, in which 



104 NORTH C^OAST OF THE 

it has been obstructed by fallen rocks, and also 
partly by a dam or dyke, which the industry and 
sagacity of the beaver, teach it to form, frequent- 
ly across the channels of rivers. The ancient 
bed is plainly discoverable by the deep ravines, 
worn, at different stages, on the side of the moun- 
tain, and by a valley near the lower fall. 

Although, in almost the whole of the cataracts 
in Lower Canada, a certain similarity of effect is 
discoverable, the precipices over which they pour 
their waters being nearly perpendicular : and al- 
though these sublime objects so frequently occur, 
that the impression which novelty produces on 
the mind, is thereby in a great degree weakened ; 
yet each is distinguishable by peculiar features. 
The accumulated waters in the spring of the year, 
by abrading, and sweeping down, portions of 
the solid rock, incessantly produce alterations, and 
thus enlarge the channel, or render it more deep. 

The landscape v/hich environs this fall, is grand 
and romantic. The banks are rugged, steep, 
and wild, being covered with a variety of trees. 
Below, large and irregular masses of limestone 
rock, are piled upon each other. Not one half 
of the mountain can be seen by the spectator, 
when stationed by the side of the river. The 
whole of the waters of the fall, are not immediate- 
ly received into the basin beneath ; but a hollow 
rock, about fifteen feet high receives a ]~:art, 
which glides from thencej in the form of a sectioia 



SAINT LAWRENCE. 105 

©fa sphere. The river, throughout the remain- 
der of its course, is solitary, wild, and broken ; 
and presents other scenes worthy of observation. 
The parishes of Saint Anne and Chateau Rich- 
er, are situated under a bank varying in height, 
extending from Saint Joachim to Ange Gardien, 
and from thence to the fail of iVlontmorenci. At 
the summit of this bank, the land rises by degrees, 
iLintil it gains the mountains, and is in a state of 
eultiv.ition A stream, called Dog river, divides 
S'.iint Aane from Chateau Richer : and in the lat- 
ter parish the small river La Puce joins the Saint 
Lawrence. The former would scarcely deserve 
to be mentioned, if it were not for the curious and 

cendino" its course. The lower fall is one hun- 
dred and twelve feet in height : and Its baisks^ 
formed by elevated acclivities, wooded to their 
summits, spread around a solemn gloom, Vv hich 
the whiteness, the movements, and the noise of 
the descending waters, contribute to render 
interesting and attractive. Besides the last, two 
other falls are formed by the higher stages 
of the mountain, where the river, confined in 
narrower compass, glides over less steep decli- 
vhies. At the distance of two miles, in ascend- 
ing the channel, another cataract appears, pour« 
ing over masses of limestone rock, and assuming 
different directions in its descent. The environs 
of this river display, in mimaiure, a succession of 



106 XORTH COAST OF THE 

romantic views. The banks near its mouth, are 
almost pej'pendicuiar, and partly denuded of vege- 
ttition, being composed of a dark lime-slate-like 
substance, which is in a state of continual decay. 

In vain would the labours of art endeavour to 
produce iti the gardens of palaces, beauties, v.'hich 
the hand of nature scatters in the midst of unfi^e- 
quented Vvilds. The river, fi'om about one- fourth 
of the height of the mountain, discloses itself to 
the contemplation of the spectator ; and delights 
his eye with varied masses of shining foam, which, 
suddenly issuing from a deep ravine hollov/cd out 
by the waters, glide down the almost perpendicu- 
lar rock, and form a splendid curtain, which loses 
itself aiuid the foliage of surrounding woods. 
Such is the scene which the fall of La Puce ex- 
hibits, when viewed from the summit of a bank 
on the eastern side of the river. 

TIjC settlement of Chateau Richer, derives its 
name from the ruins of an edifice situated on a small 
rocky point, on the borders of the Saint Lawrence, 
It was a Franciscan monastery, when the army un- 
der General Wolfe encamped on the eastern bank 
of the Montmorenci. As the monks used their 
iirnuence among the inhabitants in their vicrnity , to 
impede a supply of provisions for the English ar- 
niv, it was deemed necessarv to send thither a de-^ 
tachment to make them prisoners. They had so 
forlitied themselves within their mansion, that 
ueld pieces uxre required to compel them to a 



SAINT LAWRENCE. 107 

^irrender. Tae house was destroyed by fire : 
and nothing now remains, except a part oi the 
walls, and the ruins of an adjoining tower, which 
was formerly a wind- mill. By an inscription a- 
hove the door, it appears to have been built one 
hundred and twelve years ago. The parish church 
is placed on a bank, immediately behmd the cha- 
teau, and has two spires. The ruins already de- 
scribed, the great river, the island of Orleans, 
the point of Ange Gardien, and Cape Diamond 
in the distance, compose an agreeable scene. 

Toward the east, a yet happier combination 
of objects presents itself. On the^ left, are the 
ruins of the monastery, the church, banks cloth- 
ed with foliage, and the lower grounds studded 
w^ith white cottages ; over which Cape l^our- 
ment, and the chain of mountains whose termi- 
nation it forms, tow er w ith exalted majesty. 

The rocks which in part compose the moun- 
tains, consist of a quartz, of the colour of amber, 
mixed with a black, small-grained glimmer, 
black horn stone, and a few minute grains of 
brown spar, The stone is generally compact, 
and resists the operation of fire. Some of these 
rocks are a mixture of white quartz and black 
glimmer, witii grains of brown spar. 

Lake Saint Charles is sup]>lied by the river of 
the same name ; and diffuses itself over an extent 
of fiat lands, bounded by mountains, about lour- 
teen miles to tiie northward of Quebec. In ^o- 



108 £AI:*E SAINT CHARLES. 

ing thither, the road passes over a mountain, 
from vv hence is oj>ened an extensive view oi the 
great river and its banks 

On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spec- 
tator is dehghted by the beauty and picturesque 
wiiciness of its banks. It is, around smaii col- 
lections ol water like this, that nature is display- 
ed to the highest advantage. The extent oi liie 
lake is about five miles: and it is almost divided 
into t\\ o, by a neck of land, which lorms a nar- 
row passage, nearly at the center. Trees grow 
immediately on the boiders of the water, ^hich 
is iiidented by several points advancing into it, 
and forming little bays. The lofty hills which 
suddenly rise towards the north, in shapes, sin- 
gular and diversified, are overlooked by moun- 
tains which exalt beyond them, their more dis- 
tant summits. 

The effect produced by clouds, is here solemn 
and sublime, pitrticularly during thunder stcrmis, 
when they float in rugged masses, around the tops 
of ilje hills, whose caverns, and defiles, re-echo to 
the trcmLiing forests, the hoarse and awful roar. 

About tliree miles from the lake, in a valley 
amid prccipitt us mountains, a settlement was be- 
gun a fevi } ears ago. Its situation is highly ro- 
m antic, being watered by several streams, and 
likewise by the Saint Charles, whose banks, 
throughout its w mding course, to the lake, are 
adoi ued w ith a variety of scenery. 



Mns. SAINT LAWaEjreE". li^ 



CHAPTER VL 

€!ountry to the westward of ^lehec — Lake Calmer e^^ 
the Jacques Cartier — romantic scenenj which it dis- 
plays — toivn of Three Rivers — Lake Saint Peter- 
town of IVilliani Henry — river Chambhj — Island oj 
'Montreal — religious orders^ and their establish^ 
ments — view from the summit oJ the mountains — 
Indian village of *he Sauh Saint Louis — La Chine-^ 
JLake Saint Louis— <:ascades— ^rapids of the cedars — ' 
of the Coteau Du Lacf — Lake Saint Fra?icis — cas- 
cades of the Long Sault — multitude of isles„ 

IN ascending the Saint Lawrence from Que- 
bec to Montreal, the country on either side that 
river, becomes less diversilied, but more dch in 
soil, and more improved in cultivation, as the tra- 
veller advances. The banks, which are abrupt 
and precipitous, open into several litde bays, inter- 
mixed with rocks, woods, and settlements. Oa 
the north side, at the distance of two miles from 
the town, is Wolfe's Cove, the place at which the 
celebrated GenercU of that name disembarked liis 
army, previous to the battle on the heights of A- 
braham. On the summit of the western bank of 
this litde bay, stands a handsome house, built by 
General Powell, whose situation, together with 
the sha.ly walks by which it is surroundiid, re'i- 
lers it a pleasing retreat. 
K 



110 BANKS or THE 

From hence to Cape Rouge, the scenery, oix 
account of its beauty and variety, attracts the at- 
tention of the passenger. At Siliery, a league 
from Quebec, on the north shore, are the ruins 
of an establishment, which was begun in 1637. 
Intended as a religious institution for the conver- 
sion and instruction of natives of the country, it 
ivas at one time inhabited by twelve French fa- 
milies. The buildings are placed upon level 
ground, sheltered by steep banks, and close by 
the borders of the river. They now consist only 
of two old stone-houses, fallen to decay, and of 
the remains of a small chapeL* In this vicinitj^, 
the Algonquins once had a village. Several of 
their tumuli, or burying-places, are still discover- 
able in the woods : and hieroglyphics cut on the 
trees, remain in some situations, yet unefiaced. 

Cape Rouge is a lofty bank, suddenly declining 
to a valley, through which a small river, the dis- 
charge of a lake, situated among the mountains 
on the north, runs into the Saint Lawrence. A 
slate-stone, of a reddish colour, easily mouldering 
into thin shivers, is found at the surface, on the 
summit of the bank. A part of the borders of 
the river Chaudiere, on the opposite coast, con- 
sists of the same substance. 

The distance from Quebec to this cape, is 
eight miles: and, tovvards the aiorth, a bank pa- 

* The ch.pel has of late been repaired and fitted up for a malt-= 
^ouse, and some of the other buildings have be^n converted into e 
brewery. 



SAINT LAWRENCE. Ill 

iaiiel to that on the great river, but of inferior ele- 
vation, extends throughout that space, and joins 
llie promontory. The mean interval between 
these acclivities, is about a mile and a half Tlie 
level, and in some situatiojis, swampy lands, on 
the north of this eminence, wdiich in many places 
abound in stones, apparently formed in the bed 
of a river, afibrd probable grounds for conjec- 
ture, that a portion of the waters of the Sdint 
Lawrence, formerly flowed between the heights 
of Saint Augustin and Cape Rouge, directiiig 
their course along the valley, insulating tlie pa- 
rishes of Quebec and Saint Foix, and re-uniting 
at the place where the Saint Charles empties 
itself into the basin. 

The low space between the high grounds now 
mentioned, is about half a mile in breadth ; and, 
by a disclosure of the distant mountains, presents 
to the eye an agreeable variety. On the opposite 
coast, at the mouth of the small river Saint Ni- 
cholas, a charming combinatiori of picturesque 
objects is afforded. A part of tiic bank here ru 
ses to the height of about five iKindred itQt, and 
is clothed with trees. The little river rolls with 
foaming swiftness into the Saint Lawrence, and 
turns, with a portion of its Vvaters, corn mills of 
considerable extent. Two beautiful waterfalls, 
at no great distance from each other, are to be 
seen upon this river. 

At Point Levi, and likewise at the Etchemin, 



112 BANK'S OF THE 

on the south side oi the great river, there are cofu 
mills upGii an enlarged scale, which beic ng to the 
same proprietor, as those of Saint Nicholas. 

Lake Caiviere, on the north shore, is a collec- 
tiovr of water, about two rniies in length, whiose 
borders are diversified by woods and cultivated 
i-ields. Viewed froni the river, the church aid 
rniii of St, x\ugustin, placed beneath steep banks, 
richly wooded, com])ose a pleasing scene. 

Foiiite aux Trembles^ a village oi some extent, 
Bcvcn leagues from Quebec, is situated under a 
bank, from whence a quantity of meadow lajid 
spreads down to tlie coast. It contains a small 
;:oinent of nuns, r.nd a neat church, 

Tlii'ough a contracted valley formed by acclivL 
ties steep and abiiipt, the Jacques Cartier sw^eeps 
with impetuosity, over a rocky andinterrupted bed, 
its broken and sonorous current. The distance 
thither from Quebec, is thirty miles. The navi- 
gator who first explored the Saint Lawrence, as 
far as Montreal, here wintered in 1536 : and from 
ihis occurrence, his name has been given to the 
stream. The breadth of its mouth is about three 
hundred yards : and contiguous to it, there are ex- 
tensive corn miills, worked by water conveyed 
from a considerable distance, along an aqueduct, 
under which the road to the ferry passes. The 
ferrymen traverse the boats from one side to the 
other, by a strong rope fixed to posts, on account 
o£ the rapidity of the waters. 0\\ the suijmat of 



3AIKT LAWRENCE. IIS 

the hill, at the western side of the ferry, are tlie 
remains of an earthen redoubt, which was con- 
structed by the French in 1760. Here, as well 
as higher up the course of the river, an uncom^ 
mon wildness is displayed :• and the stream is fre- 
quently broken into cascades, particularly in the 
vicinity of the new^ bridge, where its channel is 
confined by rugged rocks, some of which are 
excavated in a singular manner, by the incessant 
operation of the furious torrent. During the sum- 
mer months, salmon are here caught in abun«r 
dance. 

The church of Cape Sante with the opposite' 
coast, which assumes a singular shape, together 
with the point of Dechambault, and the vast sheet 
of water intervening, exhibit a pleasing combina- 
tion of distant objects. At the latter situation, 
the principal bed of the Saint Lawrence is con- 
. fined to a narrow, winding, and intricate course^ 
which, at the reflux of the tide, has a considera* 
bie descent. At high water, much caution is re- 
quired, in conducting through it, a vessel of bur- 
den, astlie channel on either side is shallow, and 
abounds with concealed rocks. 

The Saint Anne is of considerable width, but 
of ;)0 great depth : and its current is scarcely per 
ceptible, at the place where it is crossed by tra^ 
vellers. The want of bridges o^^er most of these 
streams, is a great inconvenience, their passage 
m the Bering and at the commeRccmeat of wiri^ 



114 TOWN OF 

ter, being sometimes attended with peril, from ffe 
Qiuiiitities of loose and floating ice. 

The Battiscan contains not so much water as 
the last, but is more deep and rapid. An iron 
foundry has, within these few years, been esta- 
bhshed on its banks 

The town of Three Rivers is situated upon a 
paint of land, near the confluence with the Saint 
Lawrence, of the stream from which it derives 
its name. It extendi about three quarters of a 
mile 5 along the north bank of the former. The 
surrounding country is flat : and its soil is com- 
posed of sand, mixed with black mould. In the 
mouth of the stream, there are two islands, which 
divide it into three branches. On ascending its 
course, the borders become Vv ild and picturesque. 
The towri was indebted for its original establish^ 
ment to the profits arising from the commerce 
for peltry, which, in the infancy of the colony, 
was carried on by the natives, through the course 
of this river, which flows from the north-east, for 
a distance of three hundred miles. Thither, va- 
idous tribes of these savages, descended from the 
vicinity of Hudson's bay, and the country inter* 
fening' between that and the Saint LawrencCo 

Attracted by the advantages w^hich the agreea- 
ble situation of the place, and tlie rendezvous for 
traffic, presented, several French families hera 
established themselves. The proximity of the Iro^ 
qviois, a nation which cherished aa irreconcilea^ 



1*HREE RiVERSf. 115? 

ble hostility to the French, suggested the necessi- 
ty of constructing a fortr and the district of 
Three Rivers became, at length, a separate go^ 
vernment. After a lapse of some years, the na- 
tives who traded to this place, harassed and ex- 
posed to continual danger, from the frequent ir- 
ruptions of that warlike nation, discontinued their 
accustomed visits. 

The town contains a convent of Ursulines, to 
which is adjoined a parochial church, and an hos- 
pital It was founded in 1677 by M. de Saint 
Vallier, bishop of Quebec, for the education of 
young women, and as an asyluni for the poor 
and sick. A superior and eighteen nuns now 
possess it ; and discharge the functions of this 
humane institution. 

A monastery of Recollets also formed one of 
the religious edifices of this place, but that order 
has been for some time extinct. 

As there are several protestant inhabitants in 
the town, it is the residence of a rector : and di^ 
Tine service is regularly performed agreeably to 
the rites of the established church of England. 

On the banks of the river already mentioned^ 
and bout nine miles up its course, an iron foun- 
dry, which was first worked in 1737^ is situated. 
The manufacture of ore into cast, as well as ham*' 
merediron, isliere carried on to a considerable 
extent. 1 he works, and the soil in which the 
^e is found? are the property of government^ 



116 LAKE SAINT PETE'R. 

and they are rented b} a compiiiiy at QuebecTj on 
lease, at the rate of eight huiidred pounds per 
annum. The ore lies in horizontal strata, and 
near the surface. It is composed of masses, ea- 
sily detached from each other, perforated, and 
the holes filled \\'ith ochre. It possesses softness, 
and friability : and for promoting its fusion, a 
grey limestone, found in its vicinity, is used. 
Tne hammered iron is soft, pliable, and tenacious ; 
and has the quality of being but little subject to 
the iniiuence of rust. The latter property is 
probably derived from the materials en:ipIoyed in 
its fusion. For this purpose, wood only is appli- 
ed, which is highly prefei^ble to mineral coal. 

Lake Saint Peter is formed by an expansion 
of the waters of the Saint Lmvrence, to the breadth 
of from liiteen to twenty miles : and its length is 
twenty-one miles. It is in general, of small 
depth , many parts of the channel being not more 
than ten or eleven feet deep : and it sometimes 
occurs, that large vessels here run aground. 1 he 
tide scarcely extends as far up as tlie town of 
Three Eivers, which is near two leagues farther 
down than the lake : and the current in the latter 
is extremely laint. Several small rivers here dis- 
charge their waters ; among which are the Ma- 
clikhe, Du Loup, and Masquenonge, on die 
north, and the Nicoiet and Saint Francis, en the 
south. On the banks of the latter, an ladiini vil- 
lage of the same nanie^ is situated, peopled by part- 



RIVER CHAMBLr. IIT 

©f the Ablnaquis tribe, among whom a n;isVrjii- 
ary and an interpreter reside. 

At the upper end of the lake, a variety of s'Ti:ill 
isla-ids is interspersed ; some of which are partly 
cleared of their woods, and afford rich pastLira;^c 
for cattle. In the spring and autumn, they a- 
bound in wild fowl, particularly in ducks. These 
are the only islands that occur in the channel of 
the great river, from Orleans, to this situation, a 
distance of about a hundred and seventeen miles- 
From hence to lake Ontario, it is frequently vari- 
ed by clusters of islands, some of which are of 
great beauty and fertility. 

The town of William Henry, or Sorel, in lati^ 
iude45° 55', longitude 73^22', is agreeably si- 
tuated at the confluence of the Sorel or Chambly 
river, with the Saint Lawrence, and contains a 
protestant and a Roman catholic church. The 
Sorel takes its rise from lake Champlain ; and, 
directing its course towards the north, runs 
through a fertile and pleasant country, v/here its 
borders are adorned by several valuable and pro-^ 
ductive farms. On the site of the town, a fort 
was constructed in 1665, by M. de Tracy, vice- 
roy of New France, as a defence against the irrup- 
tion of the Iroquois. M. de Sorel, a captain, su- 
perintended its execution : and from him this 
part of the river received its name, Betv/een ii.ke 
Champlain, and the junction of this stream with 
the Saint Lawrenpe, there are two forts situated 



118 RIVER CHAMBLY. 

on its banks, the one called Saint John, compo^ 
sed of cedar pickets and earth, the other, Cham- 
bly, built of stone in a quadrangular form, and 
having the appearance of a castle. It is the onl}* 
edifice in North America, which has any resem- 
blance to that ancient mode of structure. Saint 
John is a frontier garrison : and a company of in- 
lantr}^, and some artillery, are generally stationed 
in it. As the channel 6f ^intercourse between 
iviontreai and the United States of America, is 
principally through this post, a collector, and 
comptroller of the customs, always reside here^ 
The country around Chambly, exhibits a roman- 
tic aspect. The river, in this part shallow, broken 
and diffused, rushes down a declivity interrupted 
bv rocks. An extensive and elevated mountain, 
of a pleasing shape, rears itself aloft, in the midst 
of level lands ; and confines, between its conical 
summits a lake of pure Vv'ater. In the months of 
June and July, great quantities of timber and 
boards formed into rafts, frequently of tw^o or three 
hundred feet in length, are floated down thfs ri- 
ver, from the borders of lake Champlain. These 
materials are used in ship-building ; and are also 
exported to England. 

Bcrthier, a settlement on the north banks of 
the great river, is extensive, populous, and rich 
in soil. The numerous islands, which afford 
pasturage and shade in summer to horses and 
cattle, contribute much to the beauty of the situ- 



THE SAINT LAWRENCE. 119 

ation. Some of these islands are of consideral^Ie 
size ; and contain a number of inhabitants. The 
country is here not diversified by inequalities of 
surface : but the bounty of the soil compensates 
for the absence of grandeur in scenery. 

The village of Vercheres presents itself on the 
south bank : and about two leagues farther, in 
ascending, another settlement, named Varennes, 
is placed on a point of land ; and contains a hand- 
some church with two spires. The countr)' in 
this quarter, increases in population : and villa- 
ges are more frequent. Some of the islands in 
this part of the river are so flat, that in the spring 
they are ovei-flowed by the waters. Those whose 
elevated situation exempts them from this incon- 
venience, are cultivated and inhabited. In some 
reasons, the buildings are subject to be injured 
by enormous masses of ice, which meet with ob- 
struction in their passage. They then become 
accumulated, one upon another, sometimes to a^ 
astonishing height : and the pieces which are up- 
permost, impelled by the impetus of the current 
acting upon those in their rear, are thus carried 
for a considerable way upon the islands, bearing 
down, or cutting asunder in their progress, every 
intervening object. In this manner, houses as 
*vvell as barns, have been destroyed. 

A particular species of grass, which is long and 
rank, called by the Canadians, /' herde an lien, 
grows upon some of the islands. This forms a 



I!20 MONT? FA 2.. 

very durable covering ior stiibles and barns': an3 
a rt)of composed of it, will last for many years, 
without the want of repair. At a few miles dis- 
tance froni Varennes. near a hill which rises in the 
midst of plains, the village of Boucherville is si- 
tuated. It is inhabited by people oi the most an- 
cient families in the country, whose means are not 
affluent, but who in this retreat, enjoy among 
themselves an agreeable society. 

On tlie north side of the Saint Lawrence, the 
road to Montreal is interrupted by a branch of the 
Outaouais, or grand river, which is about a mile 
in width between Repent igni, and the point of 
the ishmd.* ' It encompasses with its waters tl"ie 
isles de Jesus, Perrot, and Bissart ; and washes 
the northern coast of the island of Montreal, which 
is surrounded by it, and the Saint Lawrence. The 
•first of these isles was formerly named Montmag* 
ny, after one of the governors of the province : 
but on its being conceded to the Jesuits, it receiv- 
ed its present appellation. From that order, it 
passed to the members of the seminary, by whom 
it Vv'ds first settled. The channel which separates 
the islands, is denominated la riviere des Prairies- 
bei '-" on e' i er side, bordered by m.eadows. 

* A wooden bridge, on the model of that which was built over the 
Rhine ax Schauffhaii^er, has lately been constructed from Repen- 
tigiH lo an ible in the chanr^el : and anolher bridge of the samedes- 
cripiion ih new erec'ir.C';, ^o torm a con.munication between the 
otlier side ol that isicj aiwi tlie'cortU-ev-^stend of the island of Mont« 
real. 



'.ihc Stream, to\var*ls the centre of the island 
becomes rapid and broken : and this particuLir 
place is distinguished by the name of San It au 
Recollet^ a member of tkit fraternity having there 
peHshed. The ecclesiastics of the seminary of 
IMontreal, had formerly, in this vicinity, a mis- 
sion for the conversion of the natives : but they 
afterwards removed it to the Lake of the Two 
Mountains. 

The third branch of the rivcf on the north, is 
interspersed with such a number of isles, that 
tliere appears as much land as water. At the 
head of the isle Jesus, is the small island Bizart, 
called after a Swiss officer, to whom ii belonged. 
Somewhat higher, tov/ards the south, stands isle 
Perrot, deriving its name from the first governor of 
Montreal. It is almost round ; and is six miles 
in diameter. The former isle terminates the lake 
of the Two Mountains : and the latter separates 
this lake from that of Saint Louis, which is onlv 
an extension of the river Saint LawTence ; and 
was, for a series of years, the limit of the French 
colony towards the west. 

The length of the island of Montreal is thirty 
miles, and its mean breadth about seven, its cir- 
cumference being seventy miles. It may be said 
to owe its original settlement to the Abbe Quetus, 
who, in 1657, arrived from France, accompanied 
by deputies of the seminary of Saint Sulpicius, 
to take possession of this spot, and here to fouu^ 

L 



I-:^ MONTilLAL. 

ii sen-iinaiy. The other inhabitants of the colony 
were gratified to find, that a body of men bo res- 
pectable, had undertaken to clear, and settle an 
Island, the eftorts of whose first possessors, had 
hitherto been too languid. The seignorial rights 
of that fertile and valuable tract of territory, are 
still vested in the representatives of the order of 
Saint Sulpicius, Vv4iich in France, was swept away 
in the revolutionary torrent. 

The city of Montreal, in latitude 45^ 33', lon- 
gitude 73^ 37', is placed on the south side of the 
island of the same name, v/hose banks are here 
from ten to fifteen feet high, from the level of the 
water. It is built in the form of a parallelogram, 
extending from north to south. A deep and ra- 
pid current fiows between the shore and the island 
of Saint Helen. A strong north-east wind is 
therefore necessary, to carry vessels up to the 
town : and when that is wanting, they remain at 
anchor, at the lower end of the stream. This in- 
convenieixe might have been obviated, had the 
city been buiit about a mile below its present site, 
at a jvlace called the Cross. Th^^ original found- 
er ^ w ere enjoined by the government of France, 
to make choice of a situation as high up the river, 
as large vessels could be navigated : and it appears 
that the injuriction was literally obeyed... 

The streets are airy, and reguiarl}' disposed, 
one of diem extending nearly paraikl to the river, 
through the whole length of the place. 1 he} are 



MONTilEAL. 1:23 

of sufficient width, btiiig intersected at riglit an- 
gles, by several smaller streets, which descend 
from west to east. The upper street is divided 
into two, by tlie Roman Cadiolic church, adjoin- 
ing to which, theie is a large open square called 
the Place d'Armes, 

The habitations of the principal merchants are 
neat and commodious : and their storehouses 
are spacious, and secured against risque from 
fsres. They are covered with sheet iron or tin. 
Without this precaution, as the roofs of dvvelhngs 
)n Canada are usually formed of boards, and some- 
times with the exterior addition of shingles, they 
would, in summer, become highly combustible 
from witiiout, and liable to ignition from a small 
spark of lire. The houses which are protected 
in tlie f:.)rmer manner, will last, without need of 
repairs, for a considerable number of} ears. 
. The town was inclosed by a stone fortification, 
\vhich having long fallen to ruins is now in i- great 
measure levelled, or removed. ' It wa§ thus .or- 
tificd, to guard its inhabitants against the frequent 
irruptions of the Iroquois : and the walls v^ere 
never in a state to resist the attack of a regidar 
army. An act of the colonial legislature, Avas 
some time ago passed, for their total demolition. 
This has in a great degree been carried into eifect : 
and the place is nov/ rapidly im])roving in exten- 
sion as vrell as in neatness of edifices 

Montreal is divided mto the upper and lower 



324 MONTilEAL. 

lov/ns,- althougli the dinerence of level between 
them, exceeds not twelve or fifteen feet. In the 
latter are the public market, held twice in the 
week, and tlie Hotel Dieu. The upper town con- 
tains the cathedral, the English church, the con- 
■v-ent of Recollets, that of the sisters of Notre Dame, 
the Seminary, the Government house, and the 
new Court of Law. The religious edifices are 
constructed with more solidity than taste : and all 
of them are possessed of extensive gardens 

The Hotel Dieu, founded by Madame de Bou- 
illon in 1644, has a superior and thirty nuns, 
v/hose principal occupation consists in administer- 
ing relief to the sick, Vvho are received into that 
hospital. A large room in the upper part of the 
building, is appropriated as a ward for female, and 
one immediately under it, for male patients. As 
the institution was intended for public benefit, 
ihe medicines v/ere, during the French govern- 
ment, supplied at the expence of the crown. 
The fund by which it was supported, being vest- 
ed in Paris, was lost in consequence of the revo- 
Jution. Its present slender sources are chiefly 
derived from some property in land. 

The General Hospital stands on the banks of 
'^lie river, and is separated from the town by a 
small rivulet. It ovres its establishment, in 1753. 
to a widov/ lady named Youville. It contains a 
Rupenor, and nineteen nuns. 

A natural wharf, very near to thetcvvn, is form- 



MONTREAL, 125 

^d by the depth of the stream, and the sudden 
declivity of the bank. The envh'ons of Montreal 
are composed of four streets extending m different 
directions. That of Quebec on the north, Saint 
Lawrence towards ths west, and the Recollet and 
Saint Antoine towards the south; in the latter is 
placed the college, v/hich has been lately rebuilt. 
These, together with the tow^n, contain about 
twelve thousand inhabitants. 

The mountain is about two miles and a half dis«^ 
tant from the town. The land rises, at first by 
gentle gradations, and is chiefly occupied for gar* 
dens and orchards, producing apples and pears of 
a superior quality. The more steep parts of the 
mountain, continue to be shaded by their native 
woods. The northern extremity, which is the 
most lofty, assumes a more abrupt acclivity with 
a conical form : and the remains of the cra- 
ter of a volcano, are found among the rocks. 
This elevated spot, about seven hundred feet 
above the level of the rivers is of a long shape; 
and extends upwards of two miles from north 
to south, subsiding towards the centre, over 
which a road passes, and again rising in rugged 
masses, clothed with trees. A house and gcirdens. 
belonging to, and occupied by the members of 
the Seminary, are agreeably situated on the eastern 
declivity. 

The scene displayed from the summirof the 

mountain, which is the only eminence on the isU 
h2 



126 MONTREAL 

and, IS, on every side, extensive and nch. The 
city of Montreal, the cultivated lai ds, die habita- 
tions interspersed among trees ; the great river 
rapidly dashing into clouds of \\ hite foam, over 
the rocks of La Chine, and sweeping its silver 
course around a variety of islands ; the Icjfty 
mountain of Chambly, with those of Beleuil, and 
Bouchervilie, compose the scenery towards the 
east- That on the north, though of equal fertility j. 
is less diversified. 

The most fovourable view of the town, is from 
the opposite Island of Saint Helen, where the 
mountain appears in the back ground. The east- 
ern coast of the river, on which is Longueuil, 
Saint Lambert, and la Prairie de la Madelene, is 
well cultivated and thickJy inhabited. 

At the breaking up of the winter, the buildings 
of the town, which are situated near the river^ 
are sometimes subject to damage, by theaccumu- 
latifm of large fragments of ice, impelled by the 
rapidity of the current, aire . dy described. 

Montreal being placed one degree and sixteen 
minutes south from Quebec, enjoys a more fa- 
vourable climate. The soil is richer, and the du- 
ration of winter is not so long at the former place, 
as at the latter, by the space of six weeks. This 
superiority, with respect to climate and soil, ren- 
der;^ it preferable to Quebec, as a place of constant 
residence. The markets are more abundantly 
supplied : and the articles of living, are sold at a 



JlONTREAt. 127 

tnore reasonable price, especially during winter, 
when the inhabitants of the United States, who re- 
side»upon lands bordering on Lower Canada, 
bring for sale, a part of the produce of their farms. 
Quantities of cod, and of other fish, in a frozen 
state, are likewise conveyed thither in sleighs, 
from Boston. 

The island contains nine parishes, Saint Lau- 
rent, Saint Genevieve, Saint Anne, Pointe Clare, 
Pointe aux Trembles, Longue Pointe, Sault aux 
Recollet, Riviere des Prairies, and La Chine. 

La Chine, situated on the south east side of 
the island, is the place from whence all the mer- 
chandise and stores for Upper Canada, are em- 
barked in bateaux, to proceed up the course of 
the Saint Lawrence ; and in birch canoes, to as- 
cend the Outaouais, or Grand River. The store- 
houses which belong to the commissary depart- 
ment, are situated at the upper part of the Sault 
Saint Louis. Those of the merchants, and of the 
Indian department, are placed about two miles 
higher up, on the borders of the river. During 
the summer season, bateaux are frequently pass- 
ing between this place, and Kingston in Upper 
Canada. 

The settlement of La Chine, received its name^ 
from a plan which had been projected, of pene- 
trating through the continent of North America, 
to China, the persons engaged in the enterprize, 
having embarked at this spot* 



128 idONTllEAL. 

The cliief barriers of Montreal and its omU 
fons, for many years after the date of its estab- 
lishment, were two villages of Iroquois Chris- 
tians, and the fort of Chambly. The first, and 
most considerable village, is that of the Sault 
Saiut Louis, situated on the border of the rivcr^ 
opposite La Chine, and about lour leagues from 
the city. It has twice changed its site, but has 
never been removed more than four miles from 
its former position. The church, and the dwell- 
ing of the missionary, are protected towards the. 
north and south, by a stone wall, in which there 
are loop-holes for musquetry. The village, 
which is composed of about a hundred and fifty 
houses, built of stone, contains upwards of eight 
hundred inhabitants, who are not less dirty and 
slovenly in their persons, than in their habitations. 
This mission is considered as the most extensive 
of any of those among the domiciliated natives, in 
Canada. Its original settlers, belonging to the 
tribe of Iroquois, or Mohawks, were converted 
to Christianity, and fixed there by missionaries, 
when the French colony in Canada was feeble 
in population, and circumscribed in extent. 
The principal support of these Indians, is derived 
from the cultivation of their grounds, and breed" 
ing hogs and poultry, more than irom fishing and 
thechace. Their natural indolence will not, howe- 
ver, permit them to acquire habits of regular in- 
dustry and labour. This insuperable aversion to 



MONTREAL. 120 

a life of activity, they dignify with the title of in- 
depeadence, annexing to most of the employments 
©f civilized life, the idea of slavery. 

Their hunting grounds are at a considerable 
distance from their settlement ; lying in the ter- 
ritory of the United States, around Fort George, 
Ticonderago and Crown Point ; and extending 
sometimes along the coast of the Saint Lawrence, 
as far as the bay of Chaleurs. About one- third 
ef the inhabitants of the village, descend in winter, 
to hunt in those quarters. The wild animals, 
with v»hich these regions formerly abounded, 
have now become extremely rare, not only from 
the immense numbers that have been killed, but 
on account of the increase of settlements and po- 
pulation. Multitudes which the ehace had yet 
spared, were driven in quest of a secure retreat^ 
to the more remote forests. 

The transport of merchandise and other arti* 
eles, from the island of Montreal to Kingston in 
Upper Canada, is, it has been remarked, conduct- 
ed by means of bateaux, or flat-bottomed boatsj 
narrow at each extremity, and constructed of fir 
planks Each of these being about forty feet in 
length, and six feet aei'oss the widest part, gene- 
rally contains twenty five barrels, or aproportion^ 
ate number of bales of blankets, cloths, or linens, 
and is capable of conveying, nine thousand pounds 
wdght. Four men and a guide, compose the 
number of hands allotted for vvorking a bateau. 



130 MONTREAL. 

These are supplied with provisions, and widi 
rum ; and are allowed trom eight to eleven dol- 
lars each, for the voyage to Kingston, and from 
thence down again to La Chine, the time of per- 
forming which, is from ten to tw-eive days. The 
wages of tlie pilot or guide amount to twelve or 
fourteen dollars. Each bateau is supplied with 
a mast and sail, a grappling iron, v/ith ropes, sett- 
ing poles, and utensils for cooking. The ba- 
teaux when loaded, take tlieir departure from La 
Chine, in number, from four, to eight or ten to- 
gether, that the crews may be enabled to alTord 
aid to each other, arnid the difficulties and labo- 
rious exertions required in effecting this voyage. 
About fift} bateaux are employed on this route j 
and bring down for the objects of commerce 
VvTiich are conve3ed up, wheat, flour, salted pro-, 
visions, peltry, and potash. 

From twenty to thirty bateaux are likewise 
kept in the service of government, for transport- 
ing necessaries for the troops, and stores for the 
engineer department ; likewise articles of Euro- 
pean manufaciure, which are every year distribute 
ed in presents to the Indian U'lbes. I'here arc 
thus engaged about three hundred and fifty men, 
whose occupation it is, during the sultry months 
of summer, to struggle against the most tremen- 
dous rapids. Besides these, near four hundred 
men ascend inbi'rk ca-ioes, by the grand river of 
^he OutaouaJSj m a direct course to Saint J»>=» 



THE CASCADES. 131 

seph's on Lake Huron, and from thence to the 
new establishment on Lake Superior, called Ka- 
ma nastigua. 

Lake Sahit Louis, formed by the junction of 
part of the Outaouais river with the Saint Law- 
rence, is about ten miles in width ; and contains 
the isle Perrot. already noticed, surrounded by 
the waters of the former, which, for a considera- 
ble way down, mingle not with those of the latter^ 
a circumstance which is evinced by the di£brence 
in their colours. 1 he parish of Chateau- gay e, 
and several small islands, occupy the south-east 
side of the lake, into which the cascades iuriously 
pour their billows, and seem to prohibit lo the 
traveller, any further prot^ress by water. The 
bateaux are conducted to the western side ; and 
ascend the first locks, at the top of which they 
arc unloaded ; and the goods are carted i'lom. 
thence, along a road on the borders of tlie river, 
•as far as the village of the Cedars, a distance of 
five miles. Artificers and labourers, under the 
direction of a royal engineer, have, for some urne 
past, been employed on the extension and im- 
provement of these locks, which, when complet- 
ed, V7iil much tend to faciliUite the transport, and 
communication with the u])]}er country. 

The cascades are about tuo miles in length; 
aj id ftow among three different islands. The ra- 
pidity an.d lorce of the stream, arising from the 
great declivity of its bed, audthe number of rocks 



132 THE CE2)All&, 

and cavities M'hich it contains, cause it to break in* 
to masses of white foam, moving in a direction 
the reverse of that of waves produced in a trou- 
bled ocean, by the agency of storms. They curl 
their resplendent tops, towards the quarter from 
whence they are impelled. The mind of a stran- 
ger IS filled with admiration, on beholding, in the 
calmest and finest weather, all the noise, effect, 
and agitation, which the most violent conflict be- 
tween the winds and waters, is capable of exhi- 
biting. 

In a branch of these cascades, near the locks 
©n the western shore, several bateaux, loaded with 
soldiers belonging to the army under the com- 
mand of the late Lord Amherst, were lost in i 760, 
through the ignorance of the pilots who under- 
took to conduct them. Somewhat higher up, 
on the same coast of the river, and not far from 
the land, is the Split Rock, close to which, tliQ 
boats pass in descending. The current sweeps 
along the side of this rock : and great attention 
in steering is required ; for, on a too near approach, 
the bateau would be subject to the danger of be- 
ing lost. 

The rapids of the Cedars are about three miles 
distant from the highest part of the Cascades i 
and are formed amid a cluster of islands. The 
river, for about a mile and a half above, assumes 
a sudden declivity and a winding course. An 
awful and solemn effect is produced, by the incos»« 



THE £EDARS» 133 

sant sound, and rapid motion of the ever-swelling 
waves, which, covered witii tfFulgeut whiteness, 
drive along with irresistible fury. The empty ba- 
teaux are here dragged successively with ropes, 
by the joint eftbrts oi eight or ten men to each, 
wiitj walk up the shore, until they arrive at the 
viilige, near which these rapids commence. In 
descending, the bateaux are steered near the ^ ext- 
ern shore, to avoid the tremendous and more 
broken swell, which in some places, is interspers- 
ed with rocks. Although this course is not un- 
accompanied by danger, the Canadians are in e- 
nerai so experienced and expert, that an accid at 
almost never occurs. 

The village of the Cedars is charmingly situat- 
ed on the banks of the Saint Lawrence ; it con-^ 
tains a church, and about fifty houses. The ap- 
pearance of the waters, and or the rich and verdant 
islands around which they wind their course, ex- 
hibits an assemblage uncommonly interestino- : 
and the glistening rapids of the Coteaii du Lac^ 
give a lively termination to the scene. The cur- 
rent from the latter place, to the Cedars^ is, in 
most situations so powerful, that the bateau men 
are necessitated to make use of their setting poles, 
which are about seven feet in length, and shod 
with iron. As the current impels the vessC; tow- 
ards the shore, the men place them along that 
side which is inwards ; and push it forward, by 
the pressure of each upon his poll, at the same m- 

M 



134 eOTEAU DU LAC. 

stant. The bateau, by these united efforts, is forc- 
ed up the stream : and the impulsive movement 
is continued, by thus setting the poles in the bed 
of the waters, and by a reiteration of the same 
exertions. This operation, although fatiguing 
and laborious in the extreme, they will prolong 
for the space of several liours. When the cur- 
rent is too powerful for the use of poles, the ba- 
teau is dragged by a long rope, the men engag- 
ed in this office, walking, as has been before des- 
cribed, along the banks of the river. In the less 
rapid streams, the oars are used : and when the 
wind is favourable, and the current not strong, 
recourse is had to the sail. 

At the Coteau du Lac Saint Francois, the ba- 
teaux again ascend by locks, where a certain du- 
ty is payable on spirituous liquors, wines, and 
some other articles, imported into Upper Cana- 
da, although the limits of that province are plac- 
ed some miles higher up. 

By the interposition of islands, the river here 
divides itself into three considerable branches, in 
which the furious, noisy waters, dashing widi 
ceaseless impetuosity, cover the surface of the 
.streams with broken clouds of foam, 'i'he ba- 
teaux, in descending, pass close under the banks 
of an island opposite to the locks ; and present to 
a stranger who may be looking from the shore, 
a singular appearance, as they are cmy partially 
discoverable, while darting along, amid the swelU 



LAKE ST. FRANCIS. 135 

ing and agitated torrent. After passing a point 
of land above the rapids, Lake Saint Francis dis- 
closes itself to the eve. On the north side, and 
about the middle of its extent, is situated Poinie 
an Bodety the boundary between the two provin- 
ces ; Vv4iich was here fixed, in order to compre- 
hend within Lower Canada, all seignorial grants 
under the French tenure, and that the new 
townships which were laid out for the loyalists, 
should be w^itliin Upper Canada, in whicli all 
lands are granted, in free and comm.on soccage. 
The length of the lake is about twenty-iive miles, 
and its greatest width, about fifteen, its borders 
are Hat : and, in some situations, the land on ei- 
ther side can scarcely be distinguished by travel- 
lers passing along its centre. 

The Indian settlement, called St. Regis, is 
placed on the south side, at the upper extremity 
of the lake, in latitude forty-live degrees, in a 
rich and beautiful country. The boundary line 
between Canada and the United States, passes 
through it. A missionary from tlie seminary of 
Quebec is stationed among the Indians. 

The first township^ in Upper Canada is called. 
Lancaster, upon the north shore of Lake Saint- 
Francis, vv^atered by three small rivers, ext^^d- 

* A township Is a certain tract of land containing' from 20,000 to 
40,000 acres, granted by government to individuals, upon specified 
conditions. This word is therefore sometimes applied to situ^ 
tions where settlements have scarcely been commenced. 



136 LAKE ST. FRAIvCIS, 

ing nine miles in front, towards the lake, and 
twelve miles in depth. The adjoining settle- 
ment ol Charlottenburg, has, in its front several 
ijniall islands ; and is watered by two branches 
of the river aux Iiaisi?is, which winds its course 
tbiougha considerable part of the township, ini- 
til it joins the lake. Between the latter settle- 
ment, and Ccnn^all, a narrow tract intervenes, 
%\ iiich is the property of the Indians of Saint Re- 
gis. An island, named Petite Is/e, is situated 
©pposile to their village : and another more con«- 
skierable, named Grande Isle Saint Regis, lies 
somewhat higher up, and in front of the town- 
ship oi Cornw. 11. This village or town, as it is 
teimed, is intended to be a mile square : and the 
houses already built, extend along the banks of a 
branch of the Suint Lawrence, which here forms 
a bay. In this vicinity are several islands besides 
the two already mentioned. These are denomi- 
nated Isles aux milles Roches, and des Cheneaiix 
Ecartees, The township of Kenyon, is in the 
rear of the former settlement; and Roxburgh, 
in that of the latter. 
C in the adjoining township of Osnabruck, the 
river aux Raisins has its source : and in the vici- 
nity of this setdement, are the He au Longue Saidt, 
lies des trots Cheneaiix Ecartees, lies an Diahle^ 
and lie au Chat 

The channel of the river becomes in this situa- 
tion very steep : and the waters, intersected and 



J.ONGUE SAULT. 137 

©>iitracte(l betweei tae^e isiaads, rush along with 
prodigious velocity. The bateaux, in ascending, 
are always conducted by the north shore, and 
through tiie more shallow parts, that the men may- 
use their setting poles : and in many places, it 
becomes necessary to disembark, and drag them 
by ropes. 

The noise, the continual motion, and mag* 
nitude of its contending waves, render the Lon- 
gue Sati/ty at once an object of terror and delight. 
These burst upon each other ; and, tossing aloft 
their broken spray, cover the stream with a while 
and troubled surface as far as the eye can extend* 
From a point of land, on the north shore, formed 
by the sinuosities of the stream, much grandeur is 
displayed. The bank is here about fifty feet 
high ; and commands a view of the principal branch 
of tlie river, for a distance of two or three miles ; 
in which the effulgence of the impetuous current 
is beautifully contrasted, with the bordering 
shades of the woods. Throughout the same dis- 
tance, much labour and exertion are required in 
dragging forward the bateaux, after they have pas- 
sed through a mill-stream on the bank. Tovv ards 
the south shore, which is separated by island* 
from the branch now described, the stream m .-, 
much less broken : and its depth precludes the 
use of poles. It is through this channel that the 
bateaux pass, in their return from Kingston. 
The length of the Longue Sault is estimated ^X 
M 2 



13S LONGVE SAULT. 

nine miles : and a boat usually descends it, m 
about twenty minutes, which is at the rate of 
twenty-seven miles an hour* 

The south shore is, in general, covered with its 
native woods : and it is only at considerable dis- 
tances from each other, that settlements are in- 
terspersed. Williamsburg on the north shore, 
is the adjoining township to Osnabruck ; and has 
before it lie au rapid PLat^ the west end of wdiich 
is opposite to the next settlement, Matilda. 
Here are also some smaller islands,^ and a penin- 
sula, which, when the river is very full, becomes 
surrounded by water. 

The village of Johnstown, which is near a mile 
in length, and designed to extend a mile in 
breadth, is placed in the township of Edwards- 
burg. From hence, decked vessels of consider- 
able burden may be navigated to Kingston ; from 
thence to Niagara, or to any part of Lake Ontario. 
The islands opposite to this township are nume- 
rous ; the principal are Hospital island, and Isle 
du Forte Levu, where the French formerly had a 
small garrison, to defend the lower settlements,, 
from the irruptions of the Iroquois. La GaloU 
ie is'd part of the great river, in which the current 
Sows with much rapidity, although the waters are, 
in very few places, broken. 

Oswegatchie, formerly a military post belong- 
ing to the British govern nier.t, was given up to 
tiiat of the United 5;)tates in 1796, It stands oa 



THE SAIVT LAWRF.l^CE. 1S5 

the south shore, nearly opr) )- te to New Joh is- 
town. It is now knon^n by the name of Ogdeiis- 
bur^ ; and is the county ^o\vi\ in which the cir- 
cuit courts are held. The St, L?^wrence, wliose 
breadth is here about four miles, receives into its 
bosom the Black river On the borders of the 
latter are situated some hou ses, inhabited by about 
a hundred natives of the Iroquois tribe, who are 
usually termed Os-veg-atchie Indians, 

Elizabeth town, a settlement on the north side, 
which joins the township of Augusta, is well wa- 
tered by three rivers, the moht considerable of 
which takes its rise from a little lake ; and is called 
the Tonianta, the lies du Barril being contiguous 
to it. On the south-east angle of the township 
of Yonge, the latter river disembogues itself into 
the Saint Lawrence. Lansdown, adjoining to 
the laat settlement, contains many small streams: 
and the great river, for an extent of several miles^ 
from near Kingston, as far down as Augusta, is 
interspersed by a multitude of isles> As it spreads 
itself to a width, in some places, of ten or twelve 
miles, this part has acquired the name of the lake 
of the Thousand Islands \ which may be said to 
be only a prolongation of Lake Ontario. 

The river Gamansque, deriving its source from 
a lake oi" the same name, takes its course through 
tlie township of Leeds; and possesses, at its 
mouth, a good hart^our for vessels. 

Betvvcea the last iicuncd setiicment jind Kingg^ 



140 f'Hfi SAINT LAWRENC]?, 

toii, Pittsburg intervenes. Howe island stretch- 
es, in a long, and narrow form, near the front of 
tbf se two tow^nships. From Pointe au Bodet to 
Kingston, the distance is one hundred and twenty- 
miles : and in that space are contained abov6 
eighty water mills, the most considerable of 
which are erected upon the river Gananoque. 
Roads have, some years ago, been opened, and 
wooden bridges constructed over the intervening 
creeks and rivers. From Point au Bodet down- 
wards, a way for travellers on horseback, has 
been cut through the w oods, which is yet scarce- 
ly practicable for wheeled carriages. Many parts 
of this road, as well as of those in the vicinity of 
Kingston, are at times rendered almost impassa- 
ble by considerable falls of rain, the altitude of 
the trees on each side precluding the rays of the 
sun. After a fall of snow, in winter, travelling 
by land is rendered much more easy. 

Settlements have been commenced, in upwards 
of thirty other townships, situated in the rear of 
those already mentioned, and on the southward 
of the Outaounis, or Great River, upon whose 
margin, many of them terminate. Others are 
watered by the river Rideau, and by that of Pe- 
tite Nation, with the lakes and streams of the Ga- 
nanoque, affordmg a variety of places, convenient 
for the erection of mills. These rivers abound 
in carp, sturgeon, and perch. The ponds afford- 
green, and other turtle^ likewise fish of different 



THE SAINT LAWTlEirCE. 141 

species. The soils in their vicinity produce tim- 
ber, v/hose quality depends on position and ferti- 
lity. The dry lands, which are usually the most 
elevated, afford growth to oak and hickory. The 
low grounds produce walnut, ash, poplar, cherty, 
sycamore, beech, maple, elm, and other woods ; 
and in some places, there are swamps, covered by 
cedar and cypress trees. 

The banks of the small rivers and creeks a- 
boinid in pine timber of an excellent kind ; and 
present several situations for water-mills, as well 
as materials for their construction. The sources 
of the rivers Rideau and Petite Nation, both of 
which flow^ into the Outaouais, communicate, by 
short carrying places, with the streams which 
fall into the Saint Lawrence, and offer to settlers 
the advantages of an inland navigation* The 
forks of the Rideau, in whose vicinity are the 
townships of Oxford, Marlborough, and Gower^ 
seem calculated to facilitate, at some future pes^ 
riod, an interior commerce^ 



142 KINGSTON, 



CHAPTER VIL 



£>escription of Kingston in Upper Canada — Lake On*' 
tario-'Bay of ^ante—excellence of its soil— Toronto^ 
or Tork^ the capital — Burlington Bay — River Onon- 
dago — romantic cascades — Genesee River — Water- 
fall — Forts and town of Niagara — superior advan- 
tages enjoyed by settlers on the banks of the Saint 
Lawrence — rapid increase of population^ and pros- 
perous state of the province — ^leenstown — the 
Whirlpool — stupendous majesty of the Falls of Nia- 
gara — cascades — village of Chippawa, 

KINGSTON is charmingly situated on the 
northern coast of the Saint Lawrence, not far from 
Lake Ontario, in north latitude, forty -four de- 
grees, eight minutes, and in west longitude from 
Greenwich, seventy-five degrees, forty-one mi- 
nutes. This town was begun in the year 1784^ 
upwards of twenty- one years ago; and has con- 
tinued, ever since that period, to advance in a 
progressive state of improvement, to which the 
judicious choice of situation, and the fertility of 
the lands in its vicinity, have, doubtless, greatly 
contributed. Besides several commodious dvvel- 
lings, constructed of stone of an excellent quality, 
it contains a barrack for troops, a gaol and court- 
house, an episcopal church, an hospital, and seve- 
ral extensive storehouses. At this place the ves- 
sels belonging to government, used in navigating 



KINGSTON. 143 

[ iiuke Oiitario, are constructed ; and from hence, 
merchandise and other articles whicn are convey-, 
cd from the lower province, in bateaux, are em- 
barked to be transported to Niagara, York, and 
other settlements bordering on the lake he 
largest vessels employed in this service, do not 
exceed tv/o hundred tons burden : but the usual 
size is from eighty to a hundred tons. At Kings- 
ton, there are two coves or inlets, where vessels 
come to anchor, and on vrhich Vv'harfs are con- 
structed, for loading or discharging their cargoes. 
That appropriated for the vessels of government, 
is at some distance from the town ; aiid is formed 
by a promontory on the east, and a peninsula, call- 
ed Point Frederick. On this are placed the na- 
val store, and yard for building these vessels. A 
master builder, with some artificers, resides upon 
the spot ; and is kept in constant employ. The 
house of the deputy commissary, and those of 
some other persons in the service, stand likewise 
upon this peninsula. The other cove, much more 
considerable than the last, is formed betvv'een the 
town and the point already mentioned Both of 
these inlets are exposed, when the wind blows 
with violence ftom the south, or south- ^ est, and 
drives before it from the lake, a succession of swel- 
ling billows. 

The number of vessels here, in the king's ser- 
vice, is at present not more than three, tv/o of 
which are appropriated for the militaryy and one 



I4i 5C1NGS?0>7# 

for the civil department. Each vessel .carri% 
from ten to twenty guns. The senior commander 
is stiled commodore. As all kinds of timber have 
a tendency to decay, much sooner in fresh than in 
salt water ; a vessel navigating the lakes will not 
last above hix } ears, unless she be made to under- 
go considerable repairs. As those in the employ 
of government receive no repairs in their hulls, 
they are generally laid up at the expiration of tfiat 
period ; and are replaced by other vessels entire- 
ly IJfW. 

The rapid advancement of the country in po- 
pulation and improvements of every description, 
has proportionally extended the commerce. The 
number of vessels in the employ of the merchants 
is considerable. These are usually built about 
ten miles below Kingston : and the timber used 
for their construction is red cedar or oak. 

Grande Isle, now called Wolfe Island, not far 
from the town, is the largest which occurs be- 
tween Montreal and Lake Huron. The. timber 
found here, and on the south shore of the main 
land, is red oak, butternut, maple, ash, elm, and 
small pine. Carieton island, of small extent, in- 
tervenes between the latter and tiie south shore ; 
and was formerly occupied as a military station. 
It has on either side a channel of sufficient depth 
for vessels, and tv. o excellent harbours. It now 
projjerl} beK^ngs to the Lnited States, as the 
boundary nuc oi that government passes through 



i 



KINGSTON. 145 

the centre of Grand Isle. It contained a stone 
fort, with barracks of the same materials, store- 
houses, and other structures. 

One of the smaller islands, opposite to Ki' gs- 
[ton, abounds with insects called ticks, resembiiag 
the little animal of the same name, found upon 
"^attle in Europe, but of a much larger size. In 
summer, these insects spread themselves over the 
surface of the ground, over the trees, the herbage, 
afc the rocks. They climb upon every object in 
tlmr way : and to man, their effects are highly dis- 
agreeable, particularly if they gain the head, from 
•whence they are with difiiculty dislodged. With- 
out producing any degree of pain, they wdll gra- 
dually insinuate themselves beneath the skin; 
and there establish their quarters. To horses or 
cattle, w hich have been sent to graze on this island, 
the ticks, from their multitudes, have been fre- 
quently fatal. 

The town which we have described, is, by 
some, called Cataroquoy, the Indian name; and 
Avas formerly known by that of Frontenac, ironx 
a count of the same title, who w^as twice Go\ er- 
nor- general of Canada. The lake was also, for 
a long time known by the same appellation. A 
small fort was many years ago established in this 
situation, with the design of checking the incur- 
sions of the Iroquois, and of diverting, in favour 
of the French, the commerce for peltry, which 
these savages conducted betw.een the more north- 

N 



146 XAKE ONTARrO. 

€rn and western tubes, and tJie inhabitants oi' 
New York, who could supply for that purpose 
various articles scf European manufacture, on 
terms much more reasonable than the former colo- 
nists. 

The fort was originally built of stone, by M. de 
la Sale, celebrated for his discoveries, but yet 
more for his misfortunes, who w^as Seigneur of 
Cataroqur^y, and go\'ernor of the place. This es- 
tablishment was not of long duration ; and was of 
little avail tov\ards impeding the ravages of the 
Iroquois. 

Lake Ontario is in length, one hundred and 
.sixty miles, and in circumlerence, about four hun- 
dred and fifty. Its depth in many places, rem ans 
lunascertaincd. The centre has been sounded, 
with a line of three hundred and fifty fathoms, 
v.ithout finding bottom. The islands vhich it 
contains are AmJierst island, Basque, Carieion, 
PetitCataroquoy, Cedar island, IsleCauchois, isle 
vx\ Cochon, Isle du Chene, Duck islands, Grena- 
dier Island, Isles au Galloo, isle la Force, Isle au 
Foret, Gage island, Howe island, Nicholas island, 
Orphan island. Isle de Quinte, Isle Tonti, Isles 
aux Tourtes, Wolfe island or Grande isle, and 
"W apoose island. The iavid on the north-east 
coast of Lake Ontario, is low, and in some situa- 
tions marshy. The inlets or little bays, are, hem 
their position, considerahl} exposed to the swell 
bf the waters, and the influence of the winds. 



LAKE ONTARIO. 147 

The vicinity of Ki'igston affords valuable quar- 
ries of durable vvhite stone : and the soil in gene- 
ral is intermixed with rocks, a circumstance 
\\ hich, however, is not prejudicial to its produc- 
tive quality. 

Er?iest town is opposite to Amherst island ; and 
is watered by two small rivers. Camden lies on 
its north side, and Richmond on its w'est. The 
river Appenee, on which there are excellent 
mills, runs through the tv»^o last townships. The 
bay of Quinte is formed by the peninsula of 
Prince Edward, by another peninsula, coiitain- 
in|r part of the towmships of Adolphus and Fre- 
derick and by the contijient on the north, com- 
prehending the tovv'uships of Mohawks, Thur- 
lo^v, and Sidney. This bay affords, throughout 
its windino: extent, a safe and commodious har- 
bour, sheltered from the storms by which the lake 
is frequently agitated. The river Moira here emp- 
ties itself, after having traversed the township of 
Thurlow The Trent, formerly called the 
Quinte, the outlet of several small lakes, flows 
into the head of the bay, at the eastward of the 
isthmus, or carrying place. Paii: of one of the 
tribes of Mohawks, or Iroquois, has a settlement 
in the tovvTiship. This tract is nine miles in front 
on the bay, and about twelve miles in depth. A 
chief, named Captain John, is at the head of those 
natives, who, preferring this situation, separated 
from the rest of their tribe, whose village is on 



148 LAftE ONTARIO. 

the Grand River, or Ousc, which disemboj2;"iies 
its waters into the north-east side of Lake Erie. 

On the south side of the Trent, there arc salt- 
springs ; waters impregnated with salt have like- 
wise been found in other situations in this pro- 
vince : but the salt which has been produced from 
tliem was found by no means to possess the pro- 
perties of that procured from the water of the 
ocean : and a great part of the provisions ^^ hich 
have been cured with it, and sent in barrels to Que- 
bec, for the use of the troops, has been found, on 
inspection, unfit for use. 

The exuberance of the soil around the Bay of 
Quinte, amply rewards the toils of the farmer. 
It is Vv'orked v/ith facility ; and produces many 
crops, without the application of manure. The 
usual produce is twenty-five bushels of wheat, for 
one acre. The timber consists of oak, elm, hick- 
ory, maple and pines of different species. The 
bay is narrow throughout its whole extent, which 
is upwards of fifty miles ; and is navigable for 
those vessels which are used upon the lake. An 
apparent tide is frequently observable here, as well 
as in some parts of the upper lakes, a circum- 
stance probably occasioned by the impulse of the 
winds. Great quantities of wild fowl are found 
in this situation, and excellent fish of different spe- 
cies. Salmon is caught in the river Trent, but 
of an inferior quality, on account of its immense 
distance from the sea. The i^sthmus of the pen- 



. i 



LAKE ONTARIO. 149 

insula of Prince Edward being extremely narrow, 
it is intended that a canal shall be cut across it, be- 
tween the bay already described, and a small and 
beautiful lake, w^hich communicates with Lake 
Ontario. 

The harbour of Newcastle is formed by the 
township of Cramahe, and Presque Isle. Be- 
tween the tow^nship of Sidney, and the latter, that 
of Murray intervenes. Those of Haldiaiand, 
Hamilton and Hope, are beautified and fertilized 
by a variety of little streams, upon some of which, 
mills are erected. Clarke, Darlington, Whitby, 
and Pickering, follow in succession, m proceed- 
ing to the westward ; at the latter, there is a pro- 
ductive salmon and sturgeon fishery, in a river 
called Duffin's Creek, which is usually open, and 
large enough for the reception of boats, at most 
seasons of the year. The township of Scarbo- 
rough presents banks of much greater elevation 
towards the lake, than any part of the northern 
coast of that vast collection of waters. All the 
townships already noticed, are copiously watered 
by rivulets, at whose mouths there are ponds, 
and low lands, capable of being drained, and con- 
verted into meadows. In the rear of the town- 
ship of Murray, is that of Seymour : and Crama^ 
he, Haidimand, and Hamilton, have contiguous 
to them on the northward, the townships of Percy 
Alnwick, and Dives. Behiiid Scarborough, iherc 
is a German settlement upon the river New. 
n:2 



1^0 YORK. 

which, flowing througii Pickering, disembogues 
itself into tlie lake. 

York, or Toronto, the seat of government in 
Upper Canada, is placed in 43° and 35 minutes 
of north latitude, near the bottom of a harbour of 
the same name. A long and narrow peninsula, 
distinguished by the appellation of Gibraltar Pointy 
forms, and embraces this harbour, securing it 
from the storms of the lake, and rendering it the 
safest of any, around the coasts of that sea of fresh 
whalers. Stores and block-houses are constructed 
near the extremity of this point. A spot called 
the garrison, stands on a bank of the main land, 
opposite to the point ; and consists only of a wood- 
en block- house, and some small cottages of the 
same materials, little superior to temporary huts. 
The house in which the Lieutenant-governor re- 
sides, is likewise formed of wood, in the figure of 
a half square, of one story in height, with galleries 
in the centre. It is sufficiently commodious for 
the present state of the province ; and is erected 
upon a bank of the lake, near the mouth of To- 
ronto bay. The town, according to the plan, is 
projected to extend to a mile and a half in length, 
from the bottom of the harbour, along its banks. 
Many houses are already completed, some of 
which display a considerable degree of taste* The 
advancement of this place to its present conuition, 
has been effected v/ithin the lapse of six or seven 
years, and persons wlio have formerly travelled in 



VORK. 151 

this part of the country, are impressed with sen- 
timents of wonder, on beholding a town which 
may be termed handsome, reared us if by enchant- 
ment, in the midst of a wilderness. Two build- 
ings of brick, at the eastern extremity of the town, 
which were designed as wings to a centre, are 
occupied as chambers for the upper and lower 
house of assembly The scene from this part of 
the basin, is agreeable and diversified ; a block- 
house, situated upon a wooded bank, forms the 
nearest object. Part of the town, points of land 
clothed with spreading oak-trees, gradually re- 
ceding from the eye, one behind another, until 
terminated by the buildings of the garrison and 
the spot on which the governor's residence is 
placed, compose the objects on the right. The 
left side of the view comprehends the long penin- 
sula which incloses this sheet of water, beautiful 
on account of its placidity, and rotundity of form. 
The distant lake, which appears bounded only by 
the sky, terminates the whole. 

A rivulet, called the Don, runs in the vicinity 
of the town : and there are likewise other springs 
by which this settlement is watered. Yonge- 
street, or the military way leading to Lake Sim- 
coe, and from thence to Gloucester-bay on Lake 
Huron, commences in the rear of the towHo 
This communication, which, in time, wull be pro- 
ductive of great utility to the commerce of the 
country, is opened as far as Luke Simcoe ; and 



152 YORK. 

as it is considerably shorter than the circuitous 
route, by the straits of Niagara, Lake Erie, and 
Detroit, must become the gieat channel of inter ^ 
course from this part of the province, to the north- 
west country Lots of two hundred acres are laid 
out on each side of Yonge-street, every lot hav- 
ing the width of four hundred yards on the street. 
Gwiilimbury, a settlement in the interior part of 
the couiitry, is thirty-two miles to the northward 
of York ; and communicates with Like Simcoe, 
through Holland river, which runs nito Cook's 
bay on that lake. Somewhat to the westward, 
there are plains thinly planted with oak-trees, 
where the Indians cultivate corn. As the lake o- 
pens on the eye of the traveller, some small islands 
disclose themselves; of wh;ch Darling's, in the 
eastern part, is the most considerable. To the 
westward, there is a large, deep bay, called Kcm- 
ptnfelt's, from whose upper extremity is a short 
Ccirrying-place to the river Nottuasague, which 
discharges itself into Iroquois bay, on Lake Hu- 
ron. Francis island is placed on the north end of 
the former lake : and a safe anchorage for vessels 
is presented between it and the shore. The 
shortest road to Lake Huron, is across a sm.ill 
neck of land, which separates Lake Simcoe horn 
a smaller lake The Matchedash river, which 
has its source in the former, affords a more circui- 
tous p is^^asj-e to the northward and westward ; 
and is, in every part, navigable ibr boats ol any 



YORK. 153 

size, excepting at the rapids, which present situa- 
tions for mills. The soil, on either side of this 
river, is of an inferior quality. It discharges it- 
self into a bay of the same name, to the eastward, 
which receives also, North and South rivers; 
and forms a junction with a yet larger basin, al- 
ready noticed, called Gloucester, or Sturgeon bay, 
in the mouth of which lies Prince William Hen- 
ry's island, open, to Lake Huron, On a penin- 
sula in this basin, ruins of a French settlement 
are yet extant. The harbour of Penetangusltene, 
is formed between two promontories, around 
which there is soil well suited for cultivation. 
This harbour possesses sufficient depth of water, 
and the anchorage for vessels, is safe. The 
township of Markham, in the rear of York and 
Scarborough, is settled by Germans. 

To the westward of the garrison of York, are 
the remains of an old French fort, called Toron- 
to ; adjoining to this situation there is a deep 
bay, receiving into it the river Humber, between 
which, and the head of Lake Ontario, the Tobyco, 
the Credit and two other rivers, with a number 
of smaller streams, join that im^mense body of 
waters. These abound in fish, particularly in 
salmon, for which the Credit is celebrated. A 
house of entertainment for passengers, is establish- 
ed on the banks of this river. 

The tract of territory between the Tobyco. 
and the head of the lake, is frequented only by er- 



1>54 LAKE ONTARIO. 

ratio tribes of Missasagues, which descend from 
the northward. Burlington bay is iornitd by a 
point of land extending from south to north, 
leaving only a small outlet, which connects it with 
the lake. Over this a wooden bridge is con- 
structed : ai.d at the south end of the beach, an 
Inn. called the King's-head, is kept for the ac- 
ccn nicdition ol travellers. 

The bay now mentioned, presents a combina- 
tion of objects, as beautiful and romantic in their 
kiiicT as aij)- which the interior of America can 
boast, A bold, rocky, and picturesque promon- 
tory, separates it from a marshy lake, called Coot's 
P.radise, which abounds in game, and pours thi- 
ther tiiC tribute of its waters. Bet^^•een Burling- 
ton bay and Nia:::-ara, a multitude of small rivers 
join the lake, the most distniguished of which, 
are those called the Twelve and the Twenty. 
These rivers, previous to their departure from 
their cliannels, spread themselves behind elevated 
beaches vvhich impede their courses ; and find- 
ing only a small opening through which to flow, 
become dammed up, and form spacious basins 
-within. Their banks are elevated, but not rug- 
ged; and are generally covered with pine-trees of 
a large growth. The tract bordering on this part 
of the lake, is denominated the county of Lin- 
coln ; and contains twenty townships v/hich are 
well settled, and rapidly increasing in population. 

Tiie traveller, by entering Lake Ontario on the 



JLAIvE ONTARIO. 155 

cast, meets with Grenadier Island, at the distance 
ol eighteen miks from Kingston, and near the 
southern coast ; which is properly speaking, the 
right bank of the Saint Lawrence, in its course 
towards the ocean. This island 13 Vi league in 
length from east to west ; and is about sixty yards 
from the shore. In pursuing this route, the first 
river which presents itself, fiows into the lake 
from a north-east direction, in ascending whose 
course about two leagues and a half, a waterfall 
of twenty-five feet in height becomes disclosed to 
the view. A swamp is found near its summit. 
The depth of water in the river, is from three to 
one fathom. The banks are rocky : but the 
soil above them, erives sufficient indicatioris of 
fertilit}'. The entrance of the river is six acres 
wide, contracting by degrees to one acre, and be- 
coming yet more narrow at the fall. Somevv hat 
to the westward, the largest of the Isles au Gal- 
loo is situated, which, with a peninsula on the 
main coast, forms a harbour for vessels, having a 
depth of from live, to seven fathoms of water, and 
a good bot;.om for anchorage. Proceeding a- 
roanci the coast to a bay running east-north-eaitt, 
we sounded from the north point to a small isiaiid; 
and found its breadth three acres, having from 
five iu ten fathoms of water, with a muddy bot- 
tom. Large vessels Rught anchor near the shore 
oncaher side : but riii- on the south is moj se- 
cure, on account oi a peniiisula which precludes 



156 LAKE ONTARIO. 

the effects of storm; weather. Two miles and 
an halfirom hence, another ba} occurs, in a:3cerid- 
ing which there is a river with islands of rock at 
its entrance, whose rapidity increases in p^*opor- 
tion to the distance iioni its mouth ; and renders 
it necessary to have recourse to setting poles, to 
push the canoe up the stream. For fifteen acres j 
up its course the water is three fathoms deep, but '; 
decreases to four feet in the rapid parts. The i 
rocks on each side, are at least forty feet in alti- \ 
tude. On the south shore the land rises yet more I 
considerably, and gives growth to forests of fine 
oak timber. Villiers bay is about two miks 
wide at its entrance ; and contains from six to 
seven fathoms of water, with a clayey bottom. 
Not far from hence there is yet another bay, | 
whose position is towards the south, being half a 
mile in breadth, with five fathoms in depth of 
v/ater. The land here assumes a bolder aspect, 
rising for near a mile of extent, into cliffs of up- 
wards of eighty feet high, and afterv.ards gradu- i 
ally declining. The soil on their summits is ier- 
tile, producing woods of a hard nature. The name 
of the last mentioned bay, is Hungry bay, or .; 
JSaife de la Famine ; so called by M. de la Barre, I 
Governor-general of Canada, who, in 1684, on an 
expedition against the Iroquois, lost, in this situ- 
ation, a great part of his army, which perished 
from hunger and sickness. A considerable 
stream called Black river, pours itself into this 



LAKE ©NTARI#, 157 

featy, and about two leagues lurther to the south- 
ward, another branch of the same river joins its 
waters with the lake. The channel between the 
first, or most easterly isle of Galloo, and the south 
shore, being large, w^ith from eight to ten fathoms 
of water, vessels may with safety be steered 
through it. To the ^vestward of this there are two 
other isles of the same name ; and betv/ een these, 
tw^o smaller isles, w^ith a good cliannel interven- 
ing. Several rivulets occur, in coasting between 
the western promontory of Hungry bay, and the 
river Onondago, which is placed near thirty miles 
from thence, and falls into the lake La latitude for. 
ty-three degrees and twenty minutes. The chan- 
nel at the entrance is twelve feet in depth, and 
twenty-four within. It is the discharge of seve- 
ral small rivers and lakes, ot which the most con- 
siderable is that of Oneida. On ascending the 
river, whose channel is bounded by banks of great 
elevation, a waterfall, eighty feet high, and half a 
mile in breadth, presents itself to the view. At 
the distance of two acres above, there is a second 
(all, which, although not more than twent\ -five 
feet high, is beautifully romantic. The brilliuncy 
of tlie foaming w^aters, which throw themselves 
with the most rapid motion over die perpenilicu- 
lar rocks, produces an eiFect magnificent and 
charming, and sheds a gleam of delight over the 
mind of the wearied traveller. Amid the variety 
Iff sensations, which scenes like this contribute to 

O 



158 XAKE ONTARIO. 

excite, is that of. surprise, that a fluid body should 
for ages have continued to move with such a velo- 
city, without a failure of the sources from whence 
it is supplied. 

" Rusticus expectat dum defluit amnis : ast ilia 
" Volvitur ; et volvetur in omne voiubiiis aevum." 

The timber in this viciiiity consists principally 
of white and red oak, and chesnut. I'he soil above 
is level, and of a fertile nature. Fort Obwego is 
erected on a lofty bank, on the eastern side of this 
river : and is upwards of forty-five miles from 
Kingston. The old fort, of which no vestige re- 
mains, was built in 1722, by a gentleman named 
Burnet, son of the celebrated bishop, who obtain- 
ed, for this purpose, permission of the Iroquois 
in whose territory it was situated It formed a 
key to Hudson's river, on the north ; and pro- 
tected, against the French, the trade with the In- 
dians who inhabited the borders of the lake. The 
b«r between the spot \vhere this defence stood, 
and the new fort, is eighty feet in width, i.nd 
twelve feet in depth. The fort was delivered over 
to the American government in 1794. It wa^ 
taken by the French in 1756, when a great purt 
of the garrison was massacred by the savages. 
Beyond the fort, for about a mile, the depth of 
w^ater is from four to five fathoms, augmenting 
further up to nine fathoms. 

Pursuing our voyage, we arrived at a large bay 
v/ith a beauiilui entrance from the lake ; and as- 



LAKE ONTARIO. 159 

cended In quest of a river, but found only swampy 
grounds. This bay is two miles deep, having 
four and a half feet of water on the bar at the en- 
trance, and from three to four fathoms, with a 
muddy bottom within. The points facing the 
lake are steep, and of considerable altitude, com- 
posed of strata of stone and earth The depth 
about half a mile from the shore is eight fathoms^ 
with a sandy bottom. 

The bay of Goyogouin lies about sixteen miles 
to the westward of Onondago ; and exhibits an 
aspect of fertility. It is five miles in extent, and 
tvvo miles and a half in width, within the points 
of entrance. Near the west point, there are tv»elve 
and thirteen feet water on the bar : but the centre 
has no more than seven and a half feet. A penin- 
sula well wooded, elevated, and in the form of a 
crescent, advances into the bay : and on entering 
it on the left, there is a small island. No river 
was found in this situation. 

Irondiquet bay is four miles to the eastward of 
the Genesee river. The depth at the distance of 
three miles from the coast is eighteen fathoms. 
Tiie entrance of the bay is flat, Tvith four feet of 
water on its bar. The eastern side has many 
branches ; and terminates in swamps. The ri- 
ver, at the southern extremity, discharges itself 
with a very gentle ciu'rent. 

The Genesee or Casconchiagon, by some per- 
sons called the New River, is narrow ; and con^ 



160 LAKE ONTARIO. 

tains net much water at its nnouth on Lake On- 
tario. It however enlarges itself above ; and forms 
a basin of sulncient depth to float vessels of two 
hundred tons. On ascending its course about 
two leagues, a fall of sixty feet in altitude, and 
occupying the whole breadth of the river, ob# 
trades itself en the view, and commands the ad- 
miration of the traveller. It pours, with plaintive 
sound, over a rock almost perpendicular ; and, 
broken amid the variety of its movements, pro- 
duces a curtain of resplendent whiteness. On 
pursuing the channel still higher up. many rapids 
gnd cascades present themselves throughout the 
numerous sinuosities of its course. From the 
source of this river, which runs upw^ards of three 
hundred miles, the Ohio is distant only thirty 
miles. The timber produced in the vicinity of 
the mouth of the Genesee, consists chiefly of 
white and red oak and chesnut. The soil above 
the fall is rather flat, and is of a fertile nature. 

At Point e mix Tourtes there are two large 
swamps, into each of which two small rivers flow, 
A stream of the same name as the point is forty 
feet wide at its entrance : and the land around it 
is swampy. The river aiix Bceiif^ has an entrance 
of forty feet wide, with three feet of water^ on a 
rocky and gravelly bottom. The bed, for four 
miles up its course, is three fathoms in depth ; 
but diminishes by degrees uritil cascades are met 
with. It flows in a serpentine course from the 



NIAGARA. 161 

south- west. The banks produce red pine, fit for 
the masts of small vessels : and there are white 
oak-trees near its embouchure. Johnson's creek 
is about three miles from the last river : and its 
banks are well clothed with ash, aspin, and cher- 
ry-trees. 

The entrance of mix Ecliises is broad and shal- 
low, the depth being sufficient to admit bateaux 
only. T'he scenery here exhibited is agreeable* 
The land assuming a gentle slope, and being of 
great fertility, produces large oak timber without 
any underwood. On exploring about two miles, 
we found cascades, the first of which forms three 
branches, resembling sluices of considerable 
height. At the bar there were no more than two 
feet of water : and at half a mile from the coast^ 
the soundings were three fathoms. 

The old lort of Niagara, which was erected by 
the French in 1751, is placed in forty- three de 
grees and fifteen minutes of rorth latitude, onaii 
angle which is formed by the east side of iIiC Saint 
Lawrence and the vast diffusion of its waters into 
the lake. It is erected in the country of the Iro- 
quois ; and was for a series of years considered as 
the key to those inland seas of fresh water, w hich 
occupy so vast a portion of this part of North A- 
merica. The ramparts of the fort ai'e composed of 
earth and pickets ; and contain within them a lofty 
stone building, which is occupied for barracks 
and for store-rooms. The x\mencans are in pos 

2 



162 NIAGARA. 

session of it, but seem to take no measures either 
for its repair or enlargement. As the waters of 
the lake make progressive encroachments on the 
sandy bank v^ hose summit it occupies, the foun- 
dations of the brj)dings will, in a short time, be 
undc rmined. This fort was taken from the French 
in • 759 by Sir William Johnson. 

On the western bank, about a mile higher up 
the river, the British fort is situated on ground 
several feet more elevated than the last. It is like- 
wise constructed of earth and cedar pickets : and 
the buildings contained in it are executed with 
much neatness, taste, and accommodation. On 
the border of the river, and beneath the fort, there 
sre several buildings consisting of store-houses 
and barracks, one of which is called Navy Hall ; 
and is contiguous to a wharf, where vessels load 
and unload. A swamp in the vicinity becomes 
at particular seasons, from *^- 

...^ ouiiieiimes to 
^ _ ..X tiie garrison. A plain, w hose 
extent in every direction is near a mile, intervenes 
between the town of Niagara and Fort George, 
the name of the fortress already described. The 
houses are in general composed of wood, and have 
a neat and clean appearance. Their present num- 
ber may amount to near two hundred- The streets 
are spacious, and 1 id out at right angles to each 
other, so that the town, when completed, will be 



KIACARA. 165 

healthful and airy. On Iviissisa^siie Point, which 
is on the west side of the mouth of the river, a 
light-house^ for the guidance of vessels which na- 
vigate the lake, has lately been erected. Near this 
point, white fish and black bass are caught in greajt 
abundance. 

In proceeding from the town of Niagara to the 
southward, along the banks of the great river, ma- 
ny attractions combine to present pleasure and 
amusement to the mind of an observant traveller. 
The soil, the variety of situations, and the improve- 
ments of that part of the country, seem to surpass 
every impression which information alone might 
produce in its favour. The population is already 
considerable, and is rapidly augmenting. Fami- 
lies from the United States are daily coming into 
the province, bringing with them their stock and 
utensils of husbandry, in order to establish them^ 
selves on new lands, invited by the exuberance of 
the soil, the mildness of the government, and an 
almost total exemption from taxes. These peo- 
ple either purchase lands from the British subjects, 
to whom they have been granted, or take them 
upon lease, paying the rent by a certain portion of 
the produce. 

Many farmers from the neighbouring states, 
who are wealthy, procure grants of their own, and 
taking the oaths of supremacy and allegiance, be- 
come subjects of the crown of Great Britain. 

Men born and educated in the northern states 



164 niacJara. 

of America, are of the greatest utility in tlie settle^ 
ment of a new country ; as tliey arc endowed with 
a spirit for adventure, activit}% industr}^, and per- 
severance, rarely to be equalled. Nor are they 
deficient in the po^er of inventive faculty, particu- 
larly when applied to mechanical objects. In tra- 
velhng, the wagon is by many made to serve the 
end, not only of a house during the journey, but 
likev\ise of a vessel, to cross the rivers which are 
not fordable. The scams of tlie body are secured 
against the admission of water : and, when applied 
to this latter purpose, the wheels are taken off, it 
is conducted by rowing to the opposite shore : 
and the horses and cattle are made to follow it by 
swimming. The settlers who bring into the pro- 
vince the laK est property in money and stock, ge- 
nerally come from the back parts of V irginia, and 
even from the Carolinas. 

In the use of the axe the Americans display un= 
common dexterity ; and hew down the largest 
trees ot the forests with admirable address and ex- 
pedition. Retaining no attachment for any par- 
ticular situation, an American farmer, who is not 
of the first class, will sell his lands, after having 
cleared and brought them to a state of cultivation, 
il he can procure for them a reasonable profit for 
his toils. He then decamps ; launches into the 
woods in quest of a new possession ; and erects 
another habitation. 

The inimeiise tracts of woods, filled with oak 



NIAGARA. 165 

tiiniber, which every where present themselves, 
are certain indications of the fertility of the soiL 
The common produce of the fields is, in general, 
from thirty to forty for one in wheat or any other 
grain. And portions of land which have, for up- 
wards of sixteen successive years, yielded their 
harvest without the aid of manure, still continue, 
with forty to one, to reward the industry of the 
husbandman. 

The winters in this part of the country are in- 
eonsiderable, either for duration or severity, the 
snow seldom remaining on the ground for a longer 
period than five or six weeks. 

About the year 1800, before the means of trans- 
port to the lower province became facilitated and 
improved, the inhabitants were at a loss to dis- 
pose of the produce of their farms. Since that 
period many thousand barrels of flour, quantities 
of salted beef and pork, butter and cheese, pot-ash, 
and numbers of live cattle, have annually been 
conveyed to Lower Canada, through the rapids and 
cascades of die Saint Lawrence, upon rafts of tim- 
ber, containing from five hundred to eight hun- 
dred barrels each, and upon scows, a superior 
species of raft constructed of plank, without re. 
ceiving from the waters any material injury. The 
conducting of that mode of transport, although at 
first difficult and unvv^ieldy, has now become more 
familiar : and immense quantities of produce con- 
tinue to flow every year into the lower provmce* 



l66 JJIAGARA. 

There are attached to settlements on the hoi 
ders of the Saint Lawrence, advantages of trans- 
port superior to those of any inland country in 
America. The soil is unquestionably of the first 
quality , and is sufficiently varied by swells and 
ridges, to take off that sameness of effect which 
would result from a dead level country Winter 
wheat is produced with the greatest certainty. 
The grain is heavier and more plump than any" 
that is raised in the territories of the United States, 
igxcept such as border upon this im.mense river* 
Grass is very natural to this country : and cattle 
fatten in summer upon the wild growth. Hemp 
and flax are produced in great perfection. The 
timber consists of oak, pine in all its varieties, 
sugar and curled maple, beech, bass wood, hicko- 
ry, black and white ash, sassafras, black and white 
birch, elm, walnut-tree, butternut-tree, cherry- 
tree, and a variety of other woods. 

The winter season is employed by the farmer 
in making staves for casks, squaring timber, or 
preparing plank and boards, ail of which may be 
disposed of to advantage at Montreal. In the 
spring the timber is formed into rafts, which are 
loaded with produce, and conducted down the 
river with great certainty, at any period during 
the summer season, without the inconvenience of 
waiting for a freshet, or an increase of the waters 
by rains, which can have but small influence on 
so vast a body* This circumstance alcne adds a 



:wiAeAttA. 167 

value to the establishments on its borders ; for on 
all other rivers, except those of the first magni- 
tude, those who mean to conduct rafts down their 
stream are compelled to be ready at the moment 
of a swell of the waters; and if they be so unfor- 
tunate as not to be prepared, an opportunity of 
carrying to market the productions of their farms 
becomes lost to them for the whole year. It like-r 
wise not unfrequently happens with many rivers, 
that the spring freshets are not sufficiently hi^^h 
to render it safe to venture down them. The f .r- 
mer on the Saint Lawrence is assured he can send 
a barrel of flour for four shillings, and a barrel 
of potash for eight shillings, to the ship which 
comes from Europe. 

In many branches of husbandry the settlers of 
this country seem to display a superior degree of 
skill : and fields of corn are here to be seen, as 
hixuriant and fine as in any part of the universe. 

The mode of commencing a settlement is by 
cutting dow^n the smaller wood, and some of the 
large trees ; collecting them into heaps ; and burn- 
ing them. Some of the remaining trees are gird- 
led, by cutting a groove all around through the 
bark, to impede the sap from mounting : and thus 
deprived of nourishment, the branches cease to 
grow, and the leaves decay and fall to the ground. 
A iter passing a harrow over the soil, in oixler to 
turn it up, the grain is sown : the harrow is agvin 
Used ; and thus left without any further trouble^ 



16^ NIAGARA. 

the newly-cleared ground yields a copious in- 
crease. 

A stranger is here struck with sentiments of re- 
gret on viewing the numbers of fine oak-trees 
which are daily consumed by fire, in preparing • 
the lands for cultivation. 

The houses, with few exceptions, are here con- 
structed of wood, but with a degree of neatness 
and taste, for which we in vain might look among^ 
the more ancient settlements of the lower pro- 
vince. 

The improvements of every description, in 
which for a few years past the province has beeii^ 
rapidly advancing, have in some situations, alrea- 
dy divested it of the appearance of a new- settled 
colony, and made it assume the garb of wealth, 
and of long-established cultiu'e. The roads in 
the settled parts of the country are, in the summer 
season, remarkably fine : and two stage co-^.ches 
run daily between Niagara and Chippavva, or 
Fort Welland, a distance of eighteen miles. 

The scenery from Niagara to Queenstown is 
highly pleasing, the road leading along the sum- 
mit of the banks of one of the most magnificent 
rivers in the universe. And on ascending the 
mountain, which is rather a sudden elevation from 
one immense plain to another, where the river be- 
comes lost to the view, the traveller proceeds 
through a forest of oak trees, until he becomes 
;surprised and his attention is arrested by the falls 



qUEENSTOWN. 169 

presented to the eye through openhigs now cut in 
the woods, on the steep banks by which they are 
confined. 

Queenstow^n is a neat and flourishing place, 
distinguished by the beauty and grandeur of its 
situation. Here all the merchandise and stores 
for the upper part of the province are landed from 
the vessels in which they have been conveyed from. 
Kingston, and transported in w^agons to Chippa- 
wa, a distance often miles ; the falls, and the rapid 
and broken course of the river, rendering the na- 
vigation impracticable for that space. Between 
Niagara and Queenstown the river affords, in eve- 
ry part, a noble harbour for vessels ; the water be- 
ing deep, the stream not too pow^erful, the anchor- 
age good, and the banks on either side of consi- 
derable altitude. 

The mountain already noticed is formed by the 
land assuming a sudden acclivity of upwards of 
three hundred feet from one horizontal plain to 
auo her ; and extends from east to west for a con- 
sider ble way, the river holding its course throup h 
its :entre, and cutting it asunder. The perpen- 
dicuiar banks on either side are near four hundred 
feet in height, from the level of the water below 
to tiieir su;>Lmit. Their strata are similar, not on- 
ly in altitudes but in substance. A litde way be- 
low the bank on which the town is placed, there 
is a spot rising about t^venty feet from the side of 
the river, upon whose surface a quantity of stones 

P 



170 'vlHE WHIRLPOOL 

is placed, which appear to have been deposited 
there for a series of years, and v/hich have been 
evidently formed in currents of water. 

Since the settlement of the country, the river 
has not been perceived to rise to that height. 
These circumstances seem to afford probable 
ground for conjecture, that the stream which now 
flows through the deep chasm of the mountain, 
did at some former period, throw itself from near 
the summit ; and, after sweeping away the rocks 
and soil, form its present profound and rugged 
channel, extending upwards of nine miles from 
die precipice, v.hence the wide and stupendous 
flood continues novv to fail. 

In tracing the course of the river higher up 
from Queenstown, many singular and romantic 
scenes are exhibited. The whirlpool, v/hich is 
about four miles from that place, is a basin formed 
by the current in the midst of lofty precipices 
clothed V, ith woods. Previous to its entering this 
bay, the stream drives with awful roar, its broken 
interrupted v/aters over a sudden slope upv/ards 
of fifty feet in height ; and thus proceeds foaming 
past the bed it afterwards takes, which being a- 
round the angle of a precipitous promontory, its 
weight and velocity oblige it to pass on, and to 
iiiake the circuit of the basin before it can flow 
through that channel. It has apparently made an 
effort to break through the bank to the westward, 
but the rock was probably too solid. The strata 



PALLS OF K I AGAR A. i/I 

to the norlhward were found more penetrable, and 
through these it has forced a passage. A tide ris- 
ing to the height of two and an half feet, and again 
falling every minute, is observable all around the 
basin. This phenomenon may be produced by 
the impulse communicated to it from the torrent, 
which causes it alternatelv to swell, and to recoil 
irom the beach. 

This gulph usually contains a quantity of float- 
ing timber, v/hich continues to rc'.'ohe in the ed- 
dv about once in half an hour; and will some- 
times remain in this state for months, until it be 
drawn off by the current. At one particular part, 
all floating substances are made to rise on one end, 
after which they are swallowed down by the vor* 
tex, and for a time disappear. 

The falls of Niagara surpass in sublimity every 
description which the povvers of language can af- 
ford of that celebrated scene, the most W'onderful 
and avrfal which the habitable ^^orld presents. Nor 
can any drawing convey nn adequate idea of the 
magnitude and deptii of t lie precipitating waters. 
By the interposition of two islaiids, the river is; 
separated into three falls, that of the Great Horse- 
shoe on the west or British side, so denominated 
from its form, and those of Fort Slausser and 
Montmorenci, on the eastern or American side. 
The larger island is about four hundred yards in 
width, and the small ishmd about ten yards. The 
tiiree falls, w ith the islands, describe a crescent % 



i72 FALLS OF NIAGARA'. 

and the river beneath becomes considerably 
contracted. The breadth of the whole, at the 
pitch of the waters, including the curvatures 
which the violence of the current has produced 
m the Horse-shoe, and in the American falls, may 
be estimated at a mile and a quarter : and the al- 
titude of the Table Rock, from whence the pre- 
cipitation commences, is one hundred and fifty 
feet. 

Along the boundaries of the river, and behind 
ihe falls, the elevated and rocky banks are every 
where excavated by sulphureous springs ; the vi- 
triolic acid uniting with the limestone rock, and 
forming plaster of Paris; ivlncli is here and there 
scattered amid the masses of stone which com- 
pose the beach beneath. 

These excavations extend in many places to a 
distance of fifty feet underneath the summit of the 
bank. 

Casting the eye from, the Table Rock into the 
basin beneath, the effect is awfully grand, magniii- 
cent and sublime. No object intervening between 
the spectator and that profound abyss, he appears 
suspended in the atmosphere. 

^ The lofty banks and immense woods which 
environ this stupendous scene; the irresistioie 
force, the rapidity of motion displayed by the roll- 
ing clouds of foam; the uncommon brillicsncy 

* A part of this description was published in 1801 .n the Sun^ 
and afterwwds copied fvoxfi tljat paper into the Moniteur at Paris.^ 



PALIS OP NIAGARA. 17S 

and variety of colours and of shades ; the ceaseless 
intumescence, and swift agitation of the dashing 
waves below ; the solemn and tremendous noise, 
with the volumes of vapour darting upwards into 
the air, which the simultaneous report and smoke 
of a thousand cannon could scarcely equal ; irre- 
sistibly tend to impress the imagination with such 
a train of sublime sensations, as few other combi* 
nations of natural objects are capable of produc- 
ing, and vvhich terror lest the treacherous rock 
crumble beneath the feet by no means contributes 
to diminish. 

The height of the descent of the rapids above 
the great fall is fifty-seven feet eleven inches. The 
distance of the commencement of the rapids above 
the pitch, measured by the side of the island is 
one hundred and forty-eight feet : and the total 
altitude from the bottom of the falls to the top of 
the rapids, is tW'O hundred and seven feet. The 
projection of the extreme part of the Tabic Rock 
is fifty feet four inches. 

The large island extends up the river about 
three quarters of a miie : and the rapids between 
that and the western banks are nmch diversified. 
In one situation near the island, there is a fall of 
about sixteen feet in height, the vapour from 
which is distinctly visible. Several small islands 
are formed towards the west side of the river. 

From a settlement called Birch's Mills, on level 
ground below the bank, the rapids are displayed 
p 2 



174 FALLS Of NIAGARA. 

£o gvQcXt advantage. They dash from one rocky 
declivity to another, and hasten with foaming fu- 
ry to the precipice. The bank along whose sum- 
mit the carriage-road extends, affords many rich, 
ahhough partial views of the falls and rapids. 
They are from hence partly excluded from the 
eye by trees of different kinds, such as the oak, 
the ash, the beech, fir, sassafras, cedar, walnut, 
and tulip-trees. 

About t\vo miles further down the side of the 
river, at a situation called Bender's, an extensive 
and general prospect of the falls, ^vith the rapids 
and islands, is at once developed to the eye of the 
spectator. On descending the bank, which in 
several places is precipitous and difficult, and on 
emerging from the woods at its base, a wonderful 
display of grand and stupendous objects is at once 
expanded to the view. From amid immense frag- 
ments of rock, and lacerated trees which have de- 
scended in the current of the waters, the eye i& 
directed upwards toward the falls, that of Fort 
Siausser being on the left, and the Great Horse- 
shoe fall immediately in front. On the right is a 
lofty bank, profusely covered with diversity of 
foliage ; beyond which the naked, excavated rock 
discloses itself As the river here contracts to the 
bre.idth of about half a mile, the fall on the Ame- 
rican side becomes nearest t© the eye : and its wa- 
ters tumble over a rock which appears to be per- 
pendicular ^^ aud nearly in a straight line across to 



FAILS OF NIAGARA. 175 

the island, the curvatures being, from the point 
now described, not perceptible. The rock is, 
however, excavated ; and at the pitch has been 
worn from continual abrasion by the fall, into a 
serrated shape, whence the masses of foam pour 
down in ridges which retain their figure from the 
summit to the bottom. Numbers of stones which 
have been torn away from the precipice, are ac- 
cumulated throughout the whole extent below ; 
and receive the weighty and eifulgent clouds of 
broken waters, which again dash from thence in- 
to the basin. 

The Horse- shoe fall is distinguished not only 
by its vastness, but by the variety of its colours. 
The waters at the edge of the Table Rock are of 
a brownish cast ; further on of a brilliant white ; 
and in the centre, where the fluid body is greatest, 
a transparent green appears. Around the pro- 
jection, which is in the form of a horse-shoe, the 
water is of a snowy whiteness. A cloud of thick 
vapour constantly arises from the centre ; part of 
which becomes dissolved in the higher regions of 
the atmosphere ; and a part spreads itself in dews 
over the neighbouring fields. This cloud of va- 
pour has frequently, in clear weather, been ob- 
served from Lake Ontario, at the distance of 
ninety miles from the falls. 

The bed of the river is so deep, that it under- 
goes not such a degree of agitation as the recep- 
tion of those bodies of water perpetually pouring 



176 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

down into it might be supposed to prodiice. Ex^ 
cept at the places immediately underneath each 
of the falls, there are no broken billows. The 
stream is comparatively tranquil ; but the v. ater 
continues, for a long way down its course, to re- 
volve in numerous whirlpools. Its colour is a 
deep blue. Quantities of foam float upon the sur- 
face ; and almost cover a large bay formed be- 
tween projecting points, containing several insu- 
lated rocks. 

Proceeding along the beach to the basis of the 
Table Rock, the distance is about two miles : and 
the way thither is over masses of stone which have 
been torn from the bank above, and over trees 
which have been carried down the falls, and have 
been deposited in the spring by bodies of ice, in 
situations above twenty feet in height from the 
level of the river. 

The projection of the Table Rock, it has been 
remarked, is fifty feet : and between it and the 
falls a lofty and irregular arch is formed, which 
extends under the pitch, almost without interrup- 
tion, to the island. I'o enter this cavern, bounded 
by the w^aters and rock, and to turn the view to- 
wards the falls, the noise, the motion, and the 
vast impulse and weight exhibited, seem to cause 
every thing around them to tremble ; and at once 
occupy and astonish Vat mind. Sudden and fre- 
quent squalls, accompanied by torrents of rain, 
i^sue from this gloomy cavern. The air drawn 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 17T 

down by the waters is in part reverberated by the 
rock, and thus discharges itself. 

At this situation is illustrated the effect of an 
immense mass of waters, thrown from a prodigi- 
ous height, after being forcibly propelled. The 
projectile, counteracted by the gravitative power, 
obliges the falhng body to describe at first an eU 
lipse, and then to assume the perpendicular direc- 
tion in which it is received into the basin. 

The salient groups in which, with gradations 
almost regular, the tumbling waters are precipi- 
tated, excite the av/e and admiration of the spec- 
tator. The eye follows with delight the masses ot" 
lustrous foam, varied by prismatic hues, and 
forming a wide and resplendent curtain. 

About half a mile from hence, in descending 
the course of the river, and behind some trees 
which grow upon the lower bank, is placed the 
Indian ladder, composed of a tall cedar tree, whose 
boughs have been lopped off to within three incho 
cs of the trunk, and whose upper end is attached 
by a cord of bark to the root of a living tree. The 
lower end is planted amid stones. It is upwards 
of forty feet in length ; and trembles and bends 
under the weight ot a person upon it. As this is 
the nearest way to the river-side, many people 
descend by die ladder, led either by curiositv or 
for the purpose ol spearing fij:- v/h:ch ii. the 
summer are found in great abundance m this vi- 
cuiity. 



Ii6 TAILS Ot^ l^riAGAilA. 

The spear in use is a fork with two or three 
prongs, with moving barbs, and fixed to a long 
handle. The fisherman takes possession of a 
prominent rock, from whence he watches for his 
prey : and when it approaches within his reacli, 
he pierces it with his instrument, with an almost 
inevitable certainty. 

The village of Chippav/a^ or Fort Welland, is 
situated on each side of a river of the same name, 
which here joins the Saint Lawrence. A wood- 
en bridge is thrown across this stream, over 
which is the road leading to Fort Erie. The 
former fort consists only of a large block-house 
near the bridge, on tlie northern bank, surround- 
ed by lofty pickets. It is usually the station of a 
3ubaltem officer and twenty five rnen, who are 
principally engaged in conducting to Fort Eric 
the transport of stores for the service of the troops 
in tiie upper part of the province, and for the en- 
gineer and Indian departments. After being 
conveyed by land from Queenstown, the provi 
sions and other articles arc liere embarked in ba- 
teaux. 

There are in the vnlage some mercantile store- 
hoUvSes, and two or three taverns. The waters of 
the Chippawa are always of a deep brown colour ; 
and are very un^vholesome if used for culinary 
purposes. They enter the Saint Lav/rence about 
two miles above the falls : aaid although they are 
frequently broken, and rush into many rapids w 



i'ALLS OF NIAGARA. 179^ 

their course thither, they seem ol^stinateiy to re- 
sist being mixed with the purer waters of that 
flood ; and retain their colour in passing over the 
precipice. The foam produced in their precipi- 
tation is of a brownish hue ; and forms the cd^e of 
the sheet which tumbles over the Table Rock. 
Their weight, and the depth of the descent, min- 
gle them effectually with the waters in the basin 
beneath. The colour of the Chippavv'a is derived 
from that river passing over a level country, in 
many places swampy, and from quantities of de- 
cayed trees vvhich 'tinge it with their bark. It is 
also impregnated with bituminous matter, which 
prevents it, until it has suffered the most violent 
agitation and separation of particles, from incori 
porating v/ith the more transparent and uncorrupt- 
ed stream of the Saint Lawrence. 

Opposite to the village of Chippa"^\'a the cur- 
rent becomes so powerful, that no boat can be 
ventured into it, without imminent danger of be- 
ing sv/ept away, and lost in the rapids. Between 
the village and the falls there are three mills ; the 
lower for the manufacture of flour ; the two upper 
mills which are near to each other, and adjoining 
to the road, are for the purposes of sawing timr 
ber into boards, and for manufacturing iron. The 
latter scheme has hitherto failed of success. The 
logs for the saw- mill are conveyed down the cur- 
rent to this situation in a very singular manner. 
They are cut upon the borders of the Chippawa, 



180 FALI3 OF NIAGARA. 

and floated down to its m(3iith, where a reservoir j 
formed by a chain of hog-pens, is made to con- 
tain them. In proceeding downwards, in order 
to avoid being drawn into the vast vortex of the 
falls, small poles have been fixed together, from 
the reservoir to the mill floating at the distance of 
eighteen or twenty feet from the shore. They are 
retamed in their places by poles projecting from the 
land : and thus the chain of poles, rising and falling 
W'ith the waters, and always floating on the surface, 
forms a species of canal, into which the logs arc 
separately launched, and in this manner carried 
from the reservoir to the mill, a distance of more 
than a mile. 

In the vicinity of this mill there is a spring of 
water, whose vapour is highly inflammable, and is 
emitted for a time with a considerable degree of 
force. If collected within a narrow compass, it 
is capable of supporting combustion for near 
twenty minutes, and of communicating to v\ater 
placed over it^ in a small, eonfined vessel, the de- 
gree of boiling temperature. 



FALLS OF KIA6A11A. 181 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Sublime subject of the Falls further pursued — Lake 
Erie — '-Ajnherstburg — "the Detroit — Sandwich—^ 
old town of Detroit — beauty and fertility of the 
country— ^' River and Lake of Saint Claire-^-La 
Tranche^ or Thames— ^settlements on its borders-^ 
Lake Huron — Bay of Thunder — 3Iichilimaki7iac — 
Lake Michigan — Green Bay — inhabitants — Saint 
Joseph — Cascades of Saint 3Iary'— address of the 
Indians — ancient Hurons^ and other native tribes — 
Lake Superior — -remarkable transparency of its wa- 
ters — Gra?id Portage-^nezv establishment on the 
Kamanistigua, 

TO those v/ho are admirers of the picturesque 
beauties of Nature, it will be almost unnecessary 
to apologize for the prolixity of description with 
which the last communication was filled. The 
subject of the latter part of it, upon which we 
have already so long dwelt, is at once noble and 
'unique Let us therefore attempt to pursue it 
stiil further, although without the hope of being- 
able to do it justice. 

The Saint Lawrence, at the confluence of the 
Ghippawa, is upwards of a league in width ; and 
is passed to the opposite shore in boats or bateaux, 
about three-quarters of a mile higher up than the. 
village, and by the lower end of Navy island. 
The transport of goods by land to Fort Slausser;, 

Q 



^82 PALIS OF NIAGARA. 

two miles above the east side of the falls, was fel^- 
merly conducted from a place opposite to Queens- 
town. In passing through the cultivated grounds 
on this border of the river, immense mounds of 
earth, thrown up by multitudinous colonies of 
large black ants, are every where observable. 
The rapids on this branch of the river, although 
not so extensive, are nevertheless equally beau- 
tiful and romantic with those of the western 
branch. A spot at the distance of fifty yards 
from the pitch affords a most advantageous and 
pleasing display of a scene, which in every pcmt 
of view is accompanied with sublimity. 1 1 ees 
and rocks form the nearest objects, and betu ten 
these and the islands a lively picture is exhibited 
of broken rapids dashing over the slippery rocks, 
which are hidden beneath the foaming torrents. 
Amid the sinuosities of the pitch, a part of the 
American fall is developed to the view of the spec- 
tator : and the Montmorenci fall is exposed about 
half way down its depth. The other parts of the 
eastern fall are concealed, whilst a portion of the 
%vaters beneath becomes disclosed The niequa- 
iities of the precipice, which have been formed 
by the current, are here fully discoverable. Se- 
veral small isles, covered with woods, appear near 
the central island, and add to the variety of the 
scene, which foliage of diversified vei dure, over- 
topped here and there by the towering cedar^ 
Qontributes to enliven aiid to adorn. The Horse- 



FALLS OF NIAGARA, 183 

shoe fall beyond the whole, delights the mind with 
the rapidity of its movements, and the animated 
effulgence of its hues. From the station which 
we have now endeavoured to describe, is afforded 
the most perfect idea of the crescent formed by 
the three falls, the islands, and the Table Rock. 

To descend the perpendicular cliff* on the east* 
ern bank is attended with difficulty, and with 
some degree of peril. Few of the roots and vines 
which formerly hung downvv^ards from the trees, 
any longer remain. In descending the craggy 
steep, the adventurer must cling to the rock with 
his hands and feet, moving onward with great 
caution. On his arrival at the base of the cliff, he 
is struck by a developemxnt of scenery, yet more 
awfully stupendous than that which had before 
been presented to his contemplation. Here na- 
ture, agitated by the struggles of contending ele- 
ments, assumes a majestic and tremendous wild- 
ness of form. Here terror seems to hold his ha- 
bitation. Here brilliancy, profundity, motion, 
sound, and tumultuous fury, mingle throughout 
the scene. The waters appear to pour from the 
sky with such impetuosity, that a portion is thrown 
back in clouds of vapour. The mind, expanded 
by the immensity and splendour of the surround- 
ing objects, is disposed to give issue to the sen- 
sations of awe and wonder by which she is im- 
pressed, in ejaculations similar to that of the 
Pscilmist of Israel, ** Great and marvellous afC 
'' thy works I '^ 



184 PALLS OF NIAGARA. 

The huge fragments of rock, which have beeii 
thrown from the summit of the precipice, by the 
irresistible strength of the torrent, and w hich have 
fallen upon each other in towering heaps beneath, 
suggest to the imagination an idea of what may 
take place previous to the general consummation 
of this terrestrial scene, \'\ hen ancient monuments 
of marble, under which princes of the earth have 
for ages slept, shall be burst asunder, and torn up 
from their foundations. 

Can so vast, so rapid, and so continual a waste 
of water never drain its sources ? These are in- 
exhaustible : and the body which throws itself 
down these cliiFs, forms the sole discharge of four 
immense inland seas. 

The effect produced by the cold of winter on 
these sheets of water thus rapidly agitated, is at 
once singular and splendid. Icicles of great thick- 
ness and length are formed along the banks, from 
the springs which flow over them. The sources^ 
impregnated with sulphur, which drain from the 
hollow of the rocks, are congealed into transparent 
blue columns. Cones are formed by the spray, 
particularly on the American side, which have in 
several places large fissures disclosing the interi- 
or, composed of clusters of icicles, similar to the 
pipes of an organ. Some parts of the falls are 
consolidated into fluted columns : and the river 
above is seen partially frozen. The boughs of the 
trees in the surrounding woods are hung with 



FALLS OF NTAGAKA. IS5 

purest icicles Ibrmed from the spray ; and, re- 
flecting in every direction the rays of the sun, 
produce a variety of prismatic hues, and a lustre 
ahuost too refulgent to be long sustained by the 
powers of vision. 

This part of the Saint Lawrence, which is call- 
ed the Niagara river, issues from the eastern ex- 
tremity of Lake Erie ; and discharges itself into 
Lake Ontario, at the end of thirty-six miles, after 
undergoing the most violent agitaticms through an 
interrupted and sinuous channel. At its com- 
mencement from the former, its breadth is not 
more than half a mile, but it becomes afterwards 
enlarged ,^ and separated into two branches by an 
island of fifteen miles in length. The current is 
powerful : and the navigation for vessels is ren- 
dered intricate, by innumerable hidden rocks. 
In the vicinity of Navy island there are two small-- 
er isles. 

The western bank between Chippawa and 
Lake Erie is almost entirely settled : and the 
road is level, and in most places good. The 
Americans have on their side the river, a road ex- 
tending from Fort Slausser to Buffalo creek, a 
settlement which contains several Indian and 
some white families. At a spot called the Black 
Rock, at the lower end of the rapids, a fort has 
been traced, and partly constructed, within the 
limits of the United States. 
^2 



186 LAKE ERIE. 

Lake Erie is near three hundred miles in lengtli, 
and seven hundred and ten miles in circumfer- 
ence. It derives its name from the Erics or 
Cats, a native tribe which once dwelt on its bor- 
ers. The landscape at the entrance exhibits a 
pleasing variety, consisting of water, points of 
land, level countries, and distant mountains. 
The coasts are clothed with oak, ash, chcsnut, 
apple, and cherry-trees. The south-east shore 
abounds in game and wild animals. The islands 
which it contains are Bass islands, Isle Bois blanc. 
Isle Celeron, Cunningham's island, East Sister, 
Grose isle, Middle island, Middle Sister, Pointe 
Felcc isle. Saint George's island, Ship islandp 
Sandusky island, Turtle island, and West Sister. 

The old fort on the west side of the entrance in- 
to the lake, consists of no more than a few houses, 
a block -house of logs, with some habitations for 
commercial people, and one or two store-houses. 
A new stone fort, in the form of a quadrangle, is 
BOW constructing on rising ground behind the 
block house. A company of soldiers is usually 
stationed here, and the men are chiefly employed 
in assisting to conduct the transport of stores* 
Two vessels in the service of the British govern- 
ment are used in navigating this lake. 

The bottom of the lake consists of lime-stone 
rock of a blueish colour, with which are mingled 
many petrified subtances, animal as well as vege- 
table. The lake k much exposed at its northern 



LAKE ERIE. 187 

extremity, to gales of wind which occasion its 
waters to rise to a very considerable height. Ves- 
sels are at these periods in some danger of being 
driven ashore, their cables being often cut asun- 
der by the sharp and flinty edges of the rocks 
which compose the anchorage. 

At ten miles and a half from the fort, in pursu- 
ing the northern coast, is found a promontory 
which advances into the water about three hun» 
dred and fifty yards, and is named Pointe a Be- 
neauf, or Abino, affording for vessels a safe an- 
chorage in its neighbourhood. From hence to 
the grand river the distance is twenty-four miles ; 
a hill in the form of a sugar-loaf intervenes, and 
presents a good land- mark. The townships in 
this vicinity are rapidly advancing in population 
and improvement, and several water-mills have 
been constructed. The Chenette, or river Wave» 
ny, is eighteen miles more to the westward, and 
Pointe a la Biehe^ now Turkey Point, lies about 
fourteen miles further along the coast. In the 
townships of Woodhouse and Charlotteville, 
which are situated on this part of the lake, there 
is a considerable extent of country thinly timber- 
ed, whose cultivation is facilitated from the want 
of underwood. It exhibits xaoxQ the appearance 
of a royal forest in Europe than that of an Ame- 
rican wilderness. 

Long Point is a peninsula which extends itself 
into the water for a distance of twenty miles, se^ 



18B LAKE £RI^. 

panitcd almost from the muin land, the isthmus 
being little more than eighteen feet in breadth. In 
advancing towards the south-east, it forms an el- 
lipse, and travellers in canoes, in order to avoid a 
length of coast so circuitous, carry their vessels 
across the neck, to which, if the shoals be added, 
the breadth is about forty paces. The waters at 
certain seasons flow over this neck, and insulate 
Long Point. This promontory is now called the 
North Foreland, and forms a considerable bay. 
On the grand river already mentioned, a village 
of the Iroquois, or Mohawks, is situated ; and 
between that and Charlotteville, on the lake, a 
good road is cut through the country. From 
Long Point to Potnte aux Peres, now called Lan- 
guard, the distance is upwards of seventy miles. 
La Barhuey la Tonti, and several smaller streams, 
flow between these promontories. The banks of 
the lake, for the greatest part of this way, are ele- 
vated. Point Pelee, which is about forty miles 
from Languard, forms a considerable projection 
into the lake, and is the most southerly spot of all 
the British territories on the continent of North 
America: on its w est side is Pigeon Bay, beyond 
which are several settlements established by Ame- 
rican loyalists. From the latter point to Maiden, 
at the e.tra ^ce of the Detroit, the distance is 
about tJiirty miles. The river aux Cedres and 
ano ^'ir >rream run between these places. 
• Ihe fort of Amherv^lburg is placed in tte 



LAKE ERIE. 189 

lownship of Maiden, opposite the isle au JBoi^ 
blanc ; for the latter, a small detachment of sol- 
diers is sent from the former, to command the 
east channel of Detroit. The anchorage near the 
main shore is safe : and wharfs have been con« 
structed, and storehouses and dwellings erected. 
The fort has never been completed ; as it was 
laid out on a scale much too considerable for so 
remote a situation. 

Miamis river empties itself into a bay of the 
same name, at the south-west end of Lake Erie. 
It w^s upon the banks of this river, at a short dis- 
tance from its mouth, that a fort was constructed 
in 1794, and a garrison posted in it, to stop the 
progress of General Wayne, who, with an army 
of Americans, was marching against the fort of 
Detroit. Some of the sources of this river are 
not far from the Wabache, which falls into the 
Ohio. 

The navigation of Lake Erie, whose greatest 
depth does not exceed fifty fathoms, is frequently 
more tedious than that of the other lakes, on ac- 
count of the changes of wind that are required to 
carry a vessel through it, and to enter the stn.'t, 
which runs nearly from north to south. In sor; e 
of the beautiful isles at its mouth there are remark- 
able caverns, abounding in stalactites. 

The strait for a considerable way upwards, is 
divided into two channels by Grose isle, A low, 
narrow and^ marshy island, near four miles long. 



190 THE DETROIT. 

next presents itself : and on the eastem coast of 
the main land the town of Sandwich is situmed, 
which was laid out for the reception of British set- 
tlers and traders, who, agreeably to the treaty of 
commerce and navigation, concluded between the 
government of Great Britain and that of the Uni- 
ted States, made their election of continuing hv,b- 
jects of the former. This place has increased in 
population and improvements \^ith wonderful ra- 
pidity. The jail and district court-house are 
here erected : and as lots were distributed gratis 
to the iirst persons who constructed dwelling- 
houses, the town soon became flourishing. On 
the banks of the strait the settlements are frequent, 
particularly on the western or American border : 
adjoining to almost every house there is an or- 
&h^rd. The improvements are extensive, and 
executed with taste. Peaches, grapes, apples, 
and every otlier species of fruit, are here produ- 
ced in the greatest perfection and abundance. 
The lands on either side yield in fertility to none 
«n the continent of America : and this territory 
may not improperly be stiled the garden of the 
North. In passing through the strait, when the 
fruit-trees are in blossom, the scene is gratifying 
and rich. In the vicinity of Sandwich a mission 
of the Hurons is established. 

The old town and fort of Detroit, which in 
17'^6 \ms transferred to the government of the 
United States, is situated on the western border 



niE DETROIT. 191 

#f the river, about nine miles below Lake Saint 
Claire. It contained upwards of two hundred 
houses ; the streets were regular ; and it had a 
range of barracks of a neat appearance, with a spa- 
cious parade on the southern extremity. The 
fortifications consisted of a stockade of cedar- 
posts : and it was defended by bastions nv:\dQ of 
earth and pickets, on which were mounted pieces 
of cannon sufficient to resist the hostile efforts 
of the Indians, or of an enemy unprovided with 
artillery. The garrison in times of peace consist- 
ed of about three hundred men, commanded by 
a field-officer, who discharged also the functions 
of civil magistrate. The whole of this town was 
lately burnt to ashes, not a building remaining ex- 
cept one or two block-houses. 

In the month of July 1762, Pontiac, a chief of 
the Miamis Indians, who preserved a deep-rooted 
hatred to the English, endeavoured to surprise the 
garrison of Detroit, with an intention of massa- 
cring the whole of the inhabitants. But an acci- 
dental discovery having been made of his plot, he 
and his people were spared by the commandant^ 
who had tiiem in his power, and vvere permitted 
to depart in fafety. Far from entertaining any 
sentiment of gratitude for the generous conduct 
which had been shewn him, Pontiac continued 
for a considerable time to blockade the place : and 
several lives were lost on both sides by frequent 
skirmishes. 



192 LAKI SAINT BLAIRE. 

The strait above Hog island becomes enlarged, 
and i\>nns Lake Saint Claire, whose diameter is 
twenty-six miles, but whose depth is inconsider- 
able. Its islands are Chenal ecarte, Harsen's 
island, Hay island, Peach island, and Thomp- 
son's island. On the western side of this lake 
were two numerous villages of natives, not far 
from each other. The first of these called Hu- 
ron Tsonnontatez, was the same which, having 
long Vvandered towards the Nurth, formerly fix- 
ed itself at the cascades of Saint Mary and at 
Michilimakinac. The second was composed of 
Pouteouatamis. On the right, somewhat higher 
up, there was a third village, consisting of the 
Outaouais, inseparable companions of the Hurons, 
ever since both these tribes were compelled b\ 
the Iroquois to abandon their native territories. 

The lake gives a passage to the waters of the 
three immense lakes beyond it, receiving them 
through a long channel, extending from north to 
south, called the river Saint Claire. The river la 
Tranche, or Thames, disembogues its waters on 
the soudi-east side ; its banks are varied by natu- 
ral meadows and tracts of w ood-lands. The pro- 
jected town of Chatham is designed to be placed 
on a fork of this stream, about fifteen miles from 
its lower extremity, and is intended as a depot 
for building vessels. Its greatest disadvantage is 
a bar across its embouchure^ in lake St. Claire : 
but this is of sufficient depth for vessels of a 



XA TRANCHE. IffS 

smaller description, c\nd ior those of a larger size 
when lightened. 

A village of Moravians, under the guidance of 
four missionaries from the United Brethren, is 
placed twenty miles above the intended site of 
Chatham. They established themselves in that 
situation with a design of converting the Indians : 
and their conduct is peaceable and inonensive. 
Their chief occupation is in cultivatin.^i' their 
corn-fields, and making maple sugar. A chapel 
is erected in the village: Not far from hence 
there is a spring of pretroleum. 

In proceeding upwards, the sinuosities of the 
river are frequent, and the summits of the banks 
are rather elevated, but not broken ; on either 
side are villages of the Delawars and Chippawas. 
Somewhat higher up, at the confluence of twc» 
forks of this river, is the site of which Gei^^ ral 
Simcoe made choice, for a town to be named 
London. Its position, with relation to the U/kes 
Huron, Erie, and Ontario, is centrical ; and a- 
round it is a fertile and inviting tract of territory. 
It commAmicates with lake Huron by a northei.ip 
or main branch of the same river, and a small 
portage or carrying, place. 

One of the branches of the Thames is not far 
distant from the Oiise, or Grand River But the 
prospect of being enabled to embrace the advan- 
tages of this inland navigation can only be contem- 
plated at a distance. A period of many years- 

R 



i94 LAKE HURON. 

iTiust necessarily elapse before the population and 
improvements shall have attained that progressive 
state of prosperity, which will enable the inhabi- 
tants to bestow attention and expence on the 
modes of facilitating the more interior communi- 
cation. 

Along tlie banks of the Thames there are now 
several rich setdements : and new establishments 
are every week added to this, as well as to other 
parts of the neighbouring country, by the emigra- 
tion of w^ealthy farmers from the United States, 
w ho bring v/ith them their stock, utensils, and the 
money received for the sale of the lands they pos- 
sessed. 

Level grounds intervene to break the uniformi- 
ty which would predominate on this river, were' 
its borders all of equal height. These situations 
w ei e formerly cultivated by native tribes. On 
tl^ic east bide of the fork, between the two main 
hv i.ches, on a regular eminence, about forty feet 
above the water, there is a natural plain, denuded 
of woods, except uhere hmall groves are intersper- 
sed ; : fib r ding in its present state the appeararice 
of a beautiful purk, on vrhose formation and cul- 
ture, taste and experxe had been bestov.ed. 

Lake Huron is, in point of mcignitude, the se- 
cond sea of fresh waters on the continent of Ame« 
rica. and it may be added, on this terraqueous 
globf Its form is triani'^uiar : its length is two 
huiidred and iifty miles ; and its circumference^ 



LAKE HURON. 195 

including the coasts of the bays, is one thousand 
one hundred miles. The islands which it contains 
are, La Cloche, Duck islands, Fiat islands, Isle' 
la Crosse, Isle Traverse, Manitouaiin isiaiids, 
Whitewood island, Michiiimakinac, Nibii^h is- 
land, Prince William's islands, island of Saint 
Joseph, Sugar island, Thunderbay islands on the 
south, and a multitude of isles on the north coasti 

The channel betvvceu lakes Saint Claire and 
Huron is twenty-five miles in lengtli ; and pre- 
sents on either side a scene no less fertile than 
pleasing. It runs ahiiost in a straiglit direction, 
lined by lofty forest-trees, interspersed with ele- 
gant and extensive meadows, and studded with 
islands, some of which are of considerable size. 

On the south side of lake Huron is the bc;y of 
Saguina, whose mouth is eighteen mik^ in width, 
whose length is forty-five miles, ifnd into u hose 
boUom two rivers empty themselves. On that 
which comes from the south, the Outaouais have 
a village ; and the soil is reputed to be fertile. 
Six miles above the bay, two considerable rivers 
present themselves. 

The bay of Thunder lies to the eastward of 
Cabot's lie ad ; and is nine miles in width, but of 
small depth. It is so denominated from tjie fre- 
quent thunder-storms which there take place, 
generated by vapours issuing from the hjid in its 
vici.nty. Travelleis, in passing this part of the 
feke, tku'dly ever escape the encounter ox these^ 



t 



196 LAKE HUTvON. 

awful phenomena. The storm at first appears 
like a small round cloud, which enlarges as it ra- 
pidly approaches, and spreads its gloom over a 
corisiderable extent. The vivid lightnings flash 
their forked fires in every direction : and peals of 
thunder roar and burst over the head, with a noise 
more loud, and more tremendous in this, than in 
any other part of North America. 

Michillmakinac is a smrall island, situated at the 
north-west angle of lake Huron, towards the en- 
trance of the channel which forms the communi- 
cation v/ith lake Michigan, in latitude forty- 
five degrees, forty-eight minutes, thirt3^-four se« 
conds, and upwards of a thousand miles from 
Quebec. It is of a round form, irregularly ele- 
vated, and of a barren soil. The fort occupies 
ihe highest ground; and consists of four w^oodea 
block-houses forming the angles, the spaces be- 
tween them being filled up with cedar pickets* 
On the shore below the fort, there are several 
storehouses and dwellings. The neighbouring 
part of the continent, which separates lake Supe- 
rior from lake Huron, derives its name from this 
island. In 1671, Father Marquette came thither 
with a party of Hurons, whom he prevailed on 
to form a settlement. A fort was constructed, 
and it afterwards became an important post. It 
Wcis die place of general assemblage for all the 
French who went to trafiic with the dista;it na- 
tions, it was tue asylum of ail tiie savages' who 



te' 



I 



tAKE Hl/KON. 197 

eame to exchange their furs for merchandise. 
W:ie 1 individuals belonging to tribes at war with 
each other, came thither and met on commercial 
adventure, their animosities were suspended. 

Tiie natives who reside there have no occasion 
to betake themselves to the fatigues of the chace^ 
in order to procure a subsistence. When they 
are inclined to industry, they construct canoes of 
the bark of the birch-tree, which they sell for from 
two hundred to three hundred livres each. They 
catch herrings, white lish, and trout, of from four 
to five feet in length, some of which weigh seven- 
ty pounds. This fish, which is bred in lake 
Michigan, and is know^n by the name of Michiii- 
makiuiic trout, affords a most delicious food It 
is extremely rich and delicate ; and its fat, re- 
sembling the nature of spermaceti, is never cloy- 
ing to the appetite.. 

The young men, notwithstanding the abun^ 
dance of food derived from the quantities of fish, 
employ a great part of the summer in the chace, 
for which they travel to the distance of forty or 
fifty leagues, and return loaded with game. In 
autumn they again depart for the winter chace^ 
which is the most valuable and productive for the 
furs ; and return in the spring with skins of bea- 
vers, martins, foxes, and other anim.ais, with 
bear's grease, and with provision of the flesh of 
that animal and of stags, buffaioes, and elks, cured 
by smoke* 

?v 2 



198 ILAtt HTfROjr. 

Their tradition cojiceniing the name of this lit- 
tle barren island is curious. They say that Mi- 
chapous, the chief of spirits, sojourned long in 
that vicinity They believed that a mountain on 
the border of the lake was the place of his abode : 
and they called it by his name. It was here, say 
the}^, that he first instructed man to fabricate nets 
for taking fish, and where he has collected the 
pitatest ouantitv of these finnv inhabitants of the 
waters. On the island he left spirits, named ima- 
kinakosj and from these aerial possessors, it has 
received the appellation ol Michilimakinac This 
place came into possession of the American go- 
vernment in 1796, the period of delivering over 
all the other forts within its boundaries. 

The strait between lakes Huron and Michigan, 
or the lake of the Illinois, is fifteen miles in length, 
and is subject to a flux and reflux, which are by 
no means regular. The currents flow with such 
rapiaity, thut when the wiitd blows, ail the nets 
which are set are drifted away and lost : and some- 
tim(^s during strong winds tlie ice is driven against 
the direct!'. 'H of the currents with much violence. 

Whf.v the s.>vages in those quarters make a 
feast or fish, lhe\ invoke the spirits ot the island ; 
thank them for their bouiity ; and entreat them to 
com liue their protection to their iamilies. TJrey 
(^eniLUid of them to preserve their nets and ca1u>es 
from tne sv/elling and destructive billows, when 
tjie icikesi are agiiated by storps, AIL who assist 



tAKE MICHIGAN. 190 

m the ceremony ieiigtueii their voices together, 
which is an act of gratitude. In the observance of 
this duty of their rehgion, they were formerly ve- 
ry punctual and scrupulous : but the French ral- 
lied them so much upon the subject, that they be- 
came ashamed to practise it openly. They arc 
still, however, remarked to mutter something, 
which has a reference to the ceremony which their 
forefathers were accustomed to perform in honour 
of their insular deities. 

Lake Michigan is two hundred and sixty miles 
in length, and nine hundred and forty five in cir- 
cumference. Its discharge is into Lake Huron, 
through the strait already mentioned : and it coii- 
sequently forms a part of the Saint Lawrence. Its 
breadth is about seventy miles On the right of 
its entrance are the Beaver islands, and on the left 
those of the Pouteouatamis, in travelling from 
south to north. The eastern coast is full of rivers 
and rivulets near to one another, which have their 
source in the peninsula that separates Lake Huron 
from this lake. The principal of these are Mar- 
quette's river, the Saint Nicholas, the great river 
whose source is near the bay of Saguina on Lake 
Huron, the Raisin, the Barbue the Maramey, the 
Black river, on v/hose borders there is much gin- 
seng, and the river Saint Joseph, which is the most 
considerable of the v/holc, and which, through its 
various sinuosities, may be ascended nejir r, hun- 
dred airf fifty miles. At sixty miles from kn 



200 tAKE MICHIGAiT. 

mou^h, the Frendi had a fort and mission, neat' a 
viiKge of the Pouteouatamis i\t nine or ten 
miles from the Saint Joseph are found thesoim es 
of the Theakiki, navigable for canoes, and which 
falls into the river of the liiiuois. The western 
coast of the lake has been but little frequented. 
Tow^ards the north is found the entrance of the 
bay des Puans, a name given by the French to a 
savage nation residing there : but it is more ge- 
nerally distinguished by the appellation of the 
Green bay. Upon its borders stood a French fort: 
and a mission called Saint Frangois Xavier was 
established in this vicinity. The bottom of the 
bay is terminated by a fallof water, beyond which 
there is a small lake, called Winnebago, receiving 
the Fox river flowing from the west. After mak- 
ing a portage of two miles, the traveller may pro- 
ceed along its course to the Ouiscousin, which 
unites with the Mississippi. 

The waters in Green bay have a flux and re- 
flux : and from the quantity of swampy grounds, 
and of mud sometimes left exposed to the sun, 
and causing an unpleasant vapour, it originally re- 
ceived the name of Piiante, This agitation of the 
waters proceeds, doubtless, from the pressure of 
winds on the centre of the lake. The bay is one 
hundred and twenty miles in depth ; ana its width 
is from twenty-four to thirty miles at its entrance, 
which, by the islands already noticed, is separa- 
ted into severed channels. On the borders of the 



LAKE MICHIGAN-. 201 

Malhominis river, whose waters flow into this bay, 
there is a village composed of natives collected 
from several tribes, who employ themselves in 
fishing and in cultivating the ground. They are 
gratified by entertaining passengers, a quality 
w hich among savages is in the highest estimation ; 
for it is the custom of the chiefs to bestow all they 
possess, if they wish to acquire any pre-eminent 
elegree of consideration. The predominating pro- 
pensity of these savages is hospitality to strangers, 
who find here, in every season, all kinds of re- 
freshment which these territories produce : and 
the principal return which is expected, is a com- 
mendation of their generosity. 

The Sakis, the Pouteouatamis, and Malhomi- 
nis, here reside. There are also about four cabins 
or families of sedentary Nadouaicks, whose natioa 
was exterminated by the Iroquois. The Oueni- 
begons, or Puans, were formerly the possessors 
of this bay, and of a great extent of the neigh- 
bouring country. The tribe was numerous, for- 
midable, and fierce. They violated every princi- 
ple of nature. No stranger was suffered to enter 
their territory with impunity. The Malhominis, 
who dared not to complain of their tyranny, were 
the only people with whom they had any inter- 
course. They believed themselves invincible. 
They declared war on every tribe they could dis- 
cover, although their ann'^ consisted only^ of hatch- 
ats, and of knives formed of stoiie, Tiiey refused 



^202 LAKE MTCHTGAN', 

to iiave any commerce with the French. The 
Outaouais sent to them emi)ass.^.dors, whom they 
had the ferocity to devour. This instance of a- 
trocity roused with indignation all the neigliboiir- 
ing tribes, who joined with the Outaouais ; and^ 
receiving arms from the French, made frequent 
irruptions on the Puans. The immbcrs of the 
latter became thus rapidly diminished. Civil 
wars, at length, arose amongst them. They re- 
proached each other as the cause of their misibr- 
tunes, by having perlidiousiy sacrificed the Ou- 
taouaisiaii deputies, who were bringing them 
knives and other articles for their use, of wiiose 
value they w^ere ignorant. Wlien they found 
themselves so vigorously attacked, they were con- 
stramed to uriite into one -^-iilagc, w here they still 
amounted to live thousand men. They formed 
against the Outagamis a party of five hundred 
warriors, but these perished by a tempest w hich 
arose during their passage on the waters. Their 
enemies compassionated their loss, by saying 
that the gods ought to be satisfied w^ith such rei- 
terated punishments ; and ceased to make war 
against the remainder of their tribe. The :-;courg- 
es w ith w hich they had been aiSicEed awoke not, 
however, in their minds, a sense of the turpitule 
of their conduct : and they pursued w-ith re nova- 
feed vigor the practice of their former enormities. 
. The north co nst of Lake Huron is intersected 
by several rivers v/hicli HokV liiitiier, A chain o^ 



LAKE HURON*, ^OB^ 

islands, called the iManit-u .lins extends about a 
hundred and fifty miles from east to west, oppo- 
site to the lower or eastern extremity of which 
French river diseiabogues itself The eastern 
coast of the lake is studded with isles, and cut by 
rivulets and rivers, v»diich descend from several 
sm-ill lakes, the most considerable of v^^hich is 
Toronto, already described under the name of 
Simcoe : this, it has been remarked, has a com- 
muincation with Lake Ontario, after a xcry short 
carrying- place. 

Lake Michigan is separated from Lake Supc^ 
rior by a tongue of land, at least ninety miles in 
length and twenty -four in breadth. The sterility 
of the soil renders it incapable of affordirig suste- 
nance to any nihabitants. it may be denominated 
an island, as it is intersected by arjver, commu- 
nicutmg with bodi of these lakes Saint Joseph 
is an iskiiid of about hevent\ -five miles in circum- 
ference, situ ited nei:r the Detour, or passage for 
vesbcls, at tlie northern extremity of Lake Huron. 
Itw^asmade choice of in 1795 as a military post, 
when Micliilim ;kinac should be no longer in pos- 
session of the British gr.vernme2:it. The tr,rt, 
W'hich is one of the handsomest of the kind in 
North America, is situated at th.e southern extre- 
mity, upon a peninsula about fifty feet above the 
level of the v/ater, and connected ^vith the is.'.nd 
by a low isthmus of sand, about tlu'ee hun^K^d 
yards in breadth. 



204 CASCADES OF ST. M MlV. 

A company of infantry, and some .rtillerj soL 
diers, are there stationed. Althou^jih more d.aa 
a degree of latitude to *hf southward oi Quelx c-, 
the winters tre of equal duntion and seventy as 
at that place. The soil consists of a black nioiud, 
of bout fifteen inches in depth, upon a stratum 
of -^and, and is not of a very fertile naturcc The 
rouLe for canoes is between tiie Manitouahns is- 
lands, olso the northern coast i>l S dnt Joseph, and 
north nrtain-iand, m their vo} ■■^i: upwards to Lake 
Superior. The navigable channel for vessels is 
through the centre of the lake, and betvi een the 
western extremity of the Manitoualins islands and 
the south- west main-land, through a narrow pas- 
sage called the Detour, and between the small isle 
la Crosse and the same coast. The intricate na- 
vigation between the islands renders a guide ne- 
cessary. 

Nibish island intervenes between Saint Joseph 
and the western shore. Sugar island is long and 
narrow, bending towards the north in form of a 
crescent, and causing an enlargement of the w^aters 
between it and the continental coast. This is 
called Lake George. 

The falls, or rather cascades, of Saint Mary, are 
nothing else than a violent current of the waters of 
Lake Superior, which, being interrupted in their 
descent by a number of large rocks, that seem to 
di'pute the passage, form dangerous rapids of 
4hree miles in length, precipitating their white 



ii 



I 



OASCADES OF ST. MARY. 205» 

awd broken waves one upon another in irregular 
gradations. These cascades are nine miles be- 
low the entrance into Lake Superior, and about 
fifty miles from the Detour, already mentioned. 

The whole of this distance is occupied by a va^ 
riety of islands, which divide it into separate chan- 
nels, and enlarge its width, in some situations, be- 
yond the extent of sight. 

It is at the bottom of the rapids, and even a- 
mong their billows, which foam with ceaseless 
impetuosity, that innumerable quantities of excel- 
lent fish may be taken, from the spring until the 
winter. The species which is found in the great- 
est abundance is denominated by the savages, at^ 
ticameg, or white fish. The Michilimakinae 
trout, and pickerell, are likewise caught here. 
These afford a princip-^l means of subsistence tj^ 
a number of native tribes. 

No small degree of address, as well as strength, 
is employed by the savages in catching these fish. 
They stand in an erect attitude in a birch canoe : 
and even amid the billows, they push with force 
to the bottom of the waters, a long pole, at the end 
of which is fixed a hoop, with a net in the form of 
a bag, into which the fish is constrained to enter. 
They watch it with the eye when it glides among 
the rocks ; quickly ensnare it ; and dfctg it into 
the canoe. In conducting this mode of fishing 
niuch practice is required ; as an inexperienced, 

S 



/ 
206 CASCADES OF ST. MAKV. 

person may, by the elForts which he is obliged i® 
make, overset the canoe, and inevitably perish. 

The convenience of having fish in such abun- 
dance attracts to this situation, during sunimer, 
several of the neighbouring tribes, who are of an 
erratic disposition, and too indolent for the toils of 
husbandry. They, therefore, support themselves 
by the chace in winter, and by fishing in summer. 
The missionaries stationed at this place embraced 
the opportunity of instructing them in the duties 
of Christianity : and their residence was distin- 
guished by the appellation of the Mission of the 
Falls of Saint Mary, which became the centre of 
several others. 

The original natives of this place were the jP«- 
troidting Dach-Iriniy called by the French, saul- 
teurs^ as the other tribes resorted but occasionally 
thither. They consisted only of one hundred and 
fifty men ; these, however, afterwards united 
thenaselves with three other tribes, who shared in 
common with them the rights of the territory. 
Their residence was here established, except when 
they betook themselves to the chace. The na- 
tives named Nouquet, ranged throughout the 
southern borders of Lake Superior, which was 
their natal soil. The Outchibons, with the Ma- 
ramegs, frequented the northern coasts of the same 
lake, which they considered as their country. Be- 
sides these four tribes, there were several others 
dependent on this mission. The Achiiigouans, 



CASCADES OF ST. MARY. 20T 

the Amicours, and the Missasagues, came like- 
wise to fish at the fall of Saint Mary, and to hunt 
on the isles, and on the territories in the vicinity 
of Lake Huron. 

The ancient Hurons, from whom the lake de- 
rives its name, dwelt on its eastern confines. They 
were the first natives in this quarter who hazarded 
an alliance with the French, from whom they re- 
ceived Jesuit missionaries, to instruct them in the 
christian religion. These Europeans were stiled 
by the natives, Masters of Iron : and they vv ho 
remained in those regions taught them to be for- 
midable to their enemies. Even the Iroquois 
courted the alliance of the Hurons, who, with too 
great facility, relied on the pretended friendship 
and professions of that guileful people. The Iro- 
quois at length found means to surprise them, and 
to put them in disorder, obliging some to fly to 
Quebec, and others towards different quarters. 

The account of the defeat of the Hurons spread 
itself among the neighbouring nations : and con- 
sternation seized on the greater part of them. 
From the incursions wliich the Iroquois made 
when least expected, there was no longer anv se- 
curity. The Nepicirenians fled to the north. The 
Saulteurs and the Missasagues penetrated to the 
westward. The Outaouais and some other tribes 
bordering on Lake Huron, retired to the south. 
The Hurons withdrew to an island, where their 
late disaster only tended to endeur the remem-^ 



208 CASCADES OF ST. I.IARV. 

brance of their commerce with the French, which 
was now frustrated. After an attempt, attended 
with peril, they, however, again found their way 
to these Europeans. By a second irruption of the 
Iroquois, they were driven from their island, and 
took refuge among the Pouteouatamis. Part of the 
Hurons descended to Quebec; and formed a set- 
tlement to the northward of that place, of which 
an account has already been given. 

The tribes frequenting the northern territories 
are savage and erratic, living upon fish and the 
produce of the chace ; often upon the inner bark 
of trees. A kind of dry grey moss, growing on 
the rocks, called by the Cunadians, tripe de ro^ 
chers, not unfrequently supplies them with lood. 
They ensnare and shoot beavers, elks, cariboos, 
and hares of an uncommon size. The lofty 
(grounds abound in blue or huckle-berries, which 
they collect and dry, to eat in times of scarcity. 
But as these regions are in general sterile, many 
cf the inhabitants perish by famine. 

Those whose hunting grounds are towards the 
north-west, are more favoured by the productions 
of the solL A species of rice, and wild oats, grow 
naturally in the marshes, and supply the deficien- 
cy of maize. The forests and plains are filled 
with bears and cattle : and the smaller islands, 
lakes, and rivers, abound w^ith beavers. These 
people frequented the vicinity of Lakes Superior 
and Nipissing, to traffic with the natives who had 



CASCADES OF ST. MARY. 209 

intercourse with the French. Their principal 
commerce was, however, at Hudson's- bay, where 
they reaped a greater profit. They were pleased 
to receive iron and kettles in exchange for their 
worn peltry, of the value of which they were for 
some time ignorant. 

The Nepicirenians and the Amehouest inhabi- 
ted the coasts of Lake Nipissing. A great part 
of them were connected with the tribes of the 
north, from whom they drew much peltry, at an 
inconsiderable value. They rendered themselves 
masters of all the other natives in those quarters, 
until disease made great havock among them : 
and the Iroquois, insatiable after human blood, 
compelled the remainder of their tribe to betake 
themselves, some to the French settlements, o- 
thers to Lake Superior, and to the Green bay on 
Lake Michigan. 

The nation of the Otter inhabited the rocky 
caverns on Lake Huron, where they were shelter- 
ed by a labyrinth of islands and of capes. They 
subsisted on Indian corn, on fish, and on the pro^ 
duce of the chace. They were simple, but cou- 
rageous ; and had frequent intercourse with the 
nations of the north. The Missasagues, or Esti- 
aghics, are situated on the same lake, on a river 
generally called by the latter name. They, as well 
as the Saulteurs of Saint Mary, spread themselves 
along the borders of Lake Huron, where they pro- 
ciure the bark of trees to form cauoes, and to con- 



210 CASCADirS OF ST. MARY, 

Struct their huts. The waters are so transparent, 
that fish can be seen at the depth of thirty feet. 
Whilst the women and children are collecthig ber- 
ries, the men r;re occupied in darting sturgeon. 
When their grain is almost ripe, they return 
heme. On the approach of winter they resume 
their stations near the lake, for the purpose of the 
chace ; and forsake it in the spring, to plant their 
Indian corn and to fish at the falls. 

Such are the occupations of these people, who, 
if they were acquainted with economy, might live 
In abundance, which but a small portion of labour 
is here required to secure. But they are so ha- 
bituated to gluttony and waste, that they take no 
thought for their subsistence on the following day. 
There arc thus several who perish from hunger. 
They seldom reserve any provisions : and if a 
part happen to be left, it is from their being inca- 
pable of consuming the whole. When a stran- 
ger arrives among them, they will offer him their 
last morsel of food, to impress him with a persua- 
sion that they are not in indigence. The forefa- 
thers of these natives were brave : but they have 
been so long in the enjoyment of indolence and 
tranquillity, that they have degenerated in valour, 
and make war only on the beasts of the forest, and 
the inhabitants of the waters. 

The Hurons, more prudent, look forward to 
the future, and support their families. As they 
^rc ill general sober, it is seldom they are subject 



CASCADES OF ST. MARV, 211 

to distress. The tribe is artful, political, proud, 
and of greater extent of capacity than most of 
the other natives. They are liberal, grave, de- 
cent in discourse, in which they express them- 
selves with accuracy, insinuathig, and not subject 
to be duped in their dealings. 

The Outaouais have endeavoured to assume 
the manners and maxims of this people. 1 hey 
were formerly extremely rude, but, by inter- 
course with the Hurons, they have become more 
intelligent. They imitated their valour ; and 
made themselves formidable to all the nations 
with whom they were at enmity, and respected 
hy those with whom they were in alliance. 

The factory of the company of merchants o£ 
Montreal is situated at the foot of the cascades of 
Saint Mary, on the north side, and consists of 
store-houses, a saw-mill, and a bateau-yard. The 
saw- mill supplies with plank, boards, and spars, 
all the posts on Lake Superior, and particularly 
Piiie point, which is nine miles from thence ; has 
a dock -yard for constructing vessels ; and is the 
residence of a regular master-builder, with several 
artificers. At the factory there is a good canal, 
with a lock at its lower entrance, and a causeway 
for dragging up the bateaux and canoes. The 
vessels of Lake Superior approach close to the 
head of the canal, where there is a wharf; those 
of Lake Huron to the lowor end of the cascades. 
These rapids are much shorter on the north thaa 



212 LAKE SUPERiaR. 

on the south side, a circumstance occasioned by 
the interposition of small islands. The company 
has lately caused a good road to be made, along 
which their merchandise is transported on wheel- 
ed carriages from the lower part of the cascades 
to the depots. The houses are here constructed 
of squared timber clap-boarded, and have a neat 
appearance. 

On the north side of the rapids, about six fa- 
milies, consisting of Americans and domiciliated 
Indians, are established. The taxes imposed by 
the government of the United States upon all 
kinds of merchandise, are unfavourable to the com- 
merce of its subjects with the Indians in these re- 
gions. 

Lake Superior, to which was formerly given 
the name of Tracey, and likewise that of Conde, 
composes a collection of fresh waters of the first 
magnitude in the known world. Although seve- 
ral posts in its vicinity were long occupied by 
French traders, and by missionaries, yet only a 
small portion of geographical information was ob- 
tained through their means. The length of this 
lake is four hundred miles, and its circumference 
one thousand five hundred and tvvcnty miles. It 
is subjected to frequent storms : and a swell si- 
milar to that of the tide of the ocean, rolls in upon 
its coasts. The navigation is here dangerous when 
the wind blows with strength : and travellers, for 
this reason, keep near to the north shore, which 



LAKE SUPERIOR. 213 

beingbordered throughout by barren rocks of con- 
siderable elevation, nature has provided at no 
great distances from each other, a variety of small 
harbours, and places of safe retreat. 

Pine point and Point au Foin form the entrance 
into the lake. White-fish point is on the south 
shore, opposite to which, on the north coast, and 
at the distance of fifteen miles across, there is 
a mine of copper, formerly worked by the French. 
That metal is here found in native purity, 
uncontaminated by mixture with any extraneous 
substances. 

The cape, about nine miles from hence, is in 
latitude forty-six degrees, thirty. two minuteSj 
fifty-eight seconds ; and in longitude eighty lour 
degrees, nineteen minutes, fifty- seven seconds. 
The traveller, on passing White-fish point, is a- 
greeably astonished by the developement of a vast 
and unbounded expanse of crystalline waters. A 
great evaporation must here necessarily take 
place : and in summer this is dissolved in the 
dry and warm atmosphere ; except during the 
prevalence of an easterly wind, which by the cool- 
ness and humidity it carries with it, condenses 
the vapour into fogs, and collects it into torrents of 
rain. The waters of this lake appear to be sub- 
ject, at particular periods, to a great increase, suc- 
ceeded by a gradual diminution ; and along the 
rocks of the eastern coast fines are oLser\'. i -le, 
which indicate the rise and fall. The i^reatest 



214 LAKE SUPERIOR. 

distance between these horizontal marks impress-- 
ed by the waters, is not more than five or six feet. 
The greater or less quantities of snows, which in 
winter cover to a considerable depth immeasura- 
ble regions, and which on their dissolution flows 
into this peilucidocean, may probably be produc- 
tive of this phenomenon. The soil in the vicini- 
ty of the eastern shore is rocky and shallow, yield- 
ing only stunted trees, brambles, strawberries,^ 
raspberries, and other fruits of humble growth, 
the feeble tribute of sterility. The bears find in 
them a grateful food, and are attracted thither. 
Moose and fallow deer also range along these, 
coasts. 

The islands in this lake are isle aux Erahles^ 
isle of Michipicoton, Carribou island, isles ance a. 
Bouteille^ Peek island, M'llles isles ^ isle Roy ale ^ 
isles of the twelve Apostles, and Montreal island 
on the south-w^est coast. The most remarka- 
ble bays are Michipicoton bay, Black bay, Thun- 
r bay, Fond du Lac or West bay, iVnce de 
^lagoumegon, whose point is in latitude forty- 
en degrees, two minutes, twenty seconds, and 
longitude ninety -one degrees, four minutes ; 
Quieounan bay, formed by a large peninsula, 
situated on the south, and bay dcs isles an pais 
flat. 

J "he river Michipicoton communicates with 
the territory of the Hudson's bay company : and 
the society of merchants at Montre^J, who trad^ 



JKAKE StrJERIOR. 2lS 

to the north-west regions, have considerable posts 
established on it. A fort, consisting ol a stociva* 
ded square, with a dwelling-house and two small 
store-houses, are erected at the mouth of the larg« 
er Peck, there being two rivers of that name, 
which fall into the lake on the northern coast. The 
rapids on this river are numerous : but the carry- 
ing-places are in general short. 

Beyond Otter Head, in latitude' forty -eighty 
four, six ; longitude, eighty-five, fifty-two, twen- 
ty-nine ; at the bottom of a bay formed by that 
point, a waterfall of seventy feet in height, pre- 
sents Itself; and contributes by its sound, splen- 
dour, and movements, to enliven the stillness and 
solitude which prevail in these distant and deso- 
late regions. 

The river Nipigon, or Lemipisake, flows into 
the wide and extensive bay of the isles an pais plat i 
and has a near communication with fiudson's 
bay. It has several posts established on its bor- 
ders. It forms the discharge of Lake Ahmipi-^ 
gon : and at its north-east source travellers may 
arrive, by means of a portage, at the Pciray, 
which runs into Hudson's bay. 

The commerce of the Hudson's bay company 
possessing many advantages over that which is 
conducted from Canada by means of the lakes, 
might be rendered much more productive than it 
is at present. The articles which are exchar\ged 
with the natives for their furs, can be afforded s^t 



210 iAKE SUPERIOR. 

a aiuch cheaper rate thiough the route by the 
bay, than by the tedious, difficult, and circuitous 
Wuy of the rivers and lakes of Canada : and the 
Indians, for this reason, give a preference to the 
commerce of the former. 

A place named the Grande Portage is situated 
©n a river at the western side of the lake, in a bay 
which forms a crescent, and whc^ borders are 
cleared and inclosed* It is now in possession of 
the government of the United States ; and was 
until lately a place of great resort for the trading 
companies of Montreal ; as the principal depot 
for these regions, was here established. The de- 
fence, placed under a hill of upwards of four hun- 
dred feet in elevation, surmounted by a conge- 
ries of others, consists of a large picketed fortj 
with three gates, over which are two guard-hous- 
es. The ranges of buildings for stores and dwell- 
ing-houses, which were occupied for the accom- 
modation of the different persons engaged m the 
north-west trade, are very extensive. The canoe- 
rai d, for constructing canoes used for penetrating 
utu the interior parts of the country, is upon a 
^reat scale ; seventy canoes per annum having 
been contracted for. The number of persons en« 
camped in tents and in huts, on the outside of the 
fort, was, at certain periods, very great; and 
tended to excite surprise thut so considerable an 
assemblage of men, under no military restraint, 
should be retained in obedience, and in a state of 



LAKE SUPERIOR. 217 

iiolerable regularity, so far beyond the limits of 
all civil jurisdiction. The fur trade was for some 
time conducted by two rival associations, who 
are now united. The establishment of the new 
company was about a quarter of a mile from that 
^f the old; and consisted of a fort, picketed, and 
of buildings on the same plan as those of the latter, 
but upon a more circumscribed scale. 

Fort Charlotte is placed upon the river la Tour~ 
fe, which has a communication with the interior 
ootmtrv. It consists of a stockaded €iuadran2:le. 
witli buildings and stores Vvithin it The first 
carrying-place, in ascending that communication, 
is called the Ferdrix, about three hundred and 
eighty yards in length. At the uppermost extre- 
mity, an elegant and romantic waterfall appears, 
throwing, like a moving white curtain from the 
summit of a cliff of sixty feet in perpendicular al- 
titude, revolving groups of resplendent foam. 

The river Kamanastigua, which discharges its 
waters into Thunder bay, is about two hundred 
yards in width, and from ten to twelve feet in depth 
in the southern branch, there being three chaii- 
nels. The shore for about half a mile from the 
lake is low and swampy, after which it rises, and 
presents a soil of the richest quality. The first 
branch is found three miles up the river. The 
middle branch is about half a mile in length, and 
very narrow : the third is the largest^ and about 

T 



218 LAKE SUPERIOR. 

half a mile from the lake. Upon this branch the 
Company of merchants of Montreal have establish- 
ed their new posts. A square of five hundred 
and twenty feet is inclosed with lofty pickets j 
within which are structures uniformly arranged, 
fitted for every purpose and accommodation. 

Hiilf a mile above this post there is the site of 
an old fort, which, during the French government, 
was the principal commercial depot in this remote 
region. The first rapid is six miles up the river," 
the first carrying-pkice is twenty miles. The 
mouth of this river is sheltered by a rocky island : 
and the entrance is perfectly secure. The bar 
has seven feet of water over it, and ten or twelve 
feet both within and without : and the bay itself 
is protected by islands. 

Lake Superior receives into its bosom near for- 
ty rivers, some of which are ef considerable mag- 
niiude. It is well stored with a variety of fish, 
the largest and best of which are the trout, the 
white fish, ar.d the sturgeon, of a quality superior 
to that caught in the lower parts of the Saint Law- 
rence. The waters are more pure and pelhicid 
than those of any other lake upon this globe : and 
the fish, as well as the rocks, can be distinctly 
seen at a depth incredible to persons who have ne- 
ver visited those regions The density of the 
medium ©n which the vessel moves appeal^ 
scaicely to exceed that of the atmosphere : arid 
-the traveller becoimes impressed with awe at the 



LAKE SUPERIOR* 21D 

iiovelty of his situation. The southern caist is 
in many places fiat ; and the soil is of a sandy and 
barren nature. 

Ahhough the course of the Saint Lawrence is 
usually computed at no more than about two 
thousand five hundfed miles, yet the distance of 
countr}- through which a river flows is by no 
means a just criterion of its grandeur : and tlie 
rivers Amazon and la Plata, from the greater 
length of their courses, have been allowed, in the 
order of magnitude, to usurp a preference to the 
former, which, notwithstanding, is the most na- 
vigable upon earth. Ships of considerable size, 
"v^hich every year arrive irorn Great Britain, as- 
cend this river with ease as fe^ras Montreal, a dis- 
tance of five hundred miles from the sea. In ad- 
vancing higher up its course, instead of diminish- 
ing, like almost all other rivers, in width as \^'ell 
as depth, the traveller is impressed with astonish- 
ment at its majesty ; and, in man}^ places, its ap- 
parently unbounded extension. At the distance 
of two thousand miles from its mouth, vessels of 
the first class might be constructed and navigated, 
a property hitherto undiscovered in any odier 
flood of fresh waters, aud ^\hich, therefore, has a 
claim to precedence, as the iai gest and most stu- 
pendous iM this world<^ 



220 CAXAl)^, 

CHAPrER IX. 

Shimverce of Canada^-Fur trodc'^paper money-^ 
se<g-?2eu*ies — rig-fits of their proprietors-^moderatc 
appointments of colonial officers — 3Ial' administra- 
tion of finance during" the French government — state 
of Canada at its conquest — progressive improvement 
'"-revenue — yearly equipment and transport in the 
fur trade — Voyogeurs — Hardiness and mode of life 
-—dijjhidties of navigation on the Outaoiiais river — - 
romantic waterfalls — Portages, 

THE original source of all the misfortunes, 
and of all the obstacles to the advancement and 
prosperity of the provinces, which were formerly 
distinguished by the appellation of New France, 
was the report, that at a very early period spread 
•ftseif over the parent kingdom, that no mines 
w^ere to be found in that part of North America. 
Little attention was therefore bestowed on the ad- 
vantages which might have been derived from the 
colony, by encouraging and augmenting its c- :'m- 
merce. Population made but a slow progress : 
and the inducement presented to the inhabitants 
of France to remove thither \vas not very allurmg. 
The sole objects for commercial enterprise, which 
Caaada and Acadia at that time afforded, were 
the fisheries and the fiu' trade. Had it been the 
foiune of thvse countries to have attracted in a 
greater degree the attention of the court to their 



CANAI>A. 221 

intrinsic value and importance, the settlements 
would have advanced with greater rapidity : and 
reciprocal advantages to the parent state and to the 
colony, would have arisen. 

But the splendour of the precious metals which 
were imported from Mexico and Peru, had so 
dazzled the eyes of all the inhabitants of Europe, 
that a territory which produced not these, was 
considered as undeserving of attention. New 
France fell, therefore, into disrepute, before a 
knov/ledge of its soil, and of the species of pro- 
ductions of v^'hich it was capable, could be ascer- 
tained. Even they, who were convinced that 
considerable advantages might be drawn from it, 
took no active measures towards promoting the 
means of their accompUshment. Much time v.- as 
allowed to elapse, before the choice of a situation 
was made. The land was often cleared, without 
a previous examination of the qualities of its soiL 
It was planted with grain ; buildings were erect- 
ed ; and after much labour had thus been lavished 
on it, the colonist frequently abandoned it, and 
went to settle elsewhere. This spirit of incon= 
stancy contributed to the loss of Acadia to Frar.ce ; 
and operated as an insuperable barrier to the ac- 
quisition of any advantage from that extensive 
peninsula. 

The commerce of Canada was long confiied 
to the fisheries and to the fur trade. j'he cod= 
£§hery was carried on at the Great Baakj and or 



222 CANADA. 

the coast of Newforindiaiid, some time before 
the nver Suint Lw^wrence was explored. The 
harboui* and bay of Placentia were occupied by 
the French. 

The province of Acadia, now called Nova Sco- 
tia, V. as originally shared among different indi- 
viduals, no one of whom enriched himself, whilst 
the English ^^xre conducting upon the coast an 
extensive and profitable fishery. The settlements 
which these proprietors made, destitute of solidi- 
ty, and formed upon no regular plan, were at 
length abandoned, little more improved than when 
they were first entered on ; and fallen into such 
disrepute, that the country did not regain its cha^ 
nicter until the moment when it became lost to 
France. When this region was first discovered, 
it abounded with wild anim.als of great variety of 
species. A handful of Frenchmen found means 
to sweep these extensive forests of their lour- 
footed inhabitants, and in less thai:i an age to cause 
them totally to disi^ppear. Some there wtre^ 
whose species became entirely extinguished. 
Orignals and elks were killed for no other design 
but that of aiDusement, and of exercising address 
in the chace The authority of government was 
not intei posed to remedy a disorder so destruc- 
tive. But from the avarice of individuals who ap- 
plied th'wmselves only to this commerce, a yet 
gif' \ter vjI was produced 

The emigrants whp strnved fi^om France were 



CAf?ADA* 223 

in general in a state of wretchedness and poverty; 
and were desirous of re-appearing in their na- 
tive country in a better condition. In the com- 
mencement of the settlement, there was little 
impediment to the acquisition of wealth by the 
produce of the chace. The Indians were ytt ig- 
norant of the treasures which their native woods 
afforded ; and became acquainted with their va- 
lue, only from the avidity with \vhich the furs w ere 
snatched from their hands. In exchange for ar- 
ticles of no value whatever, prodigious quantities 
were acquired from them When they had even 
become more acquainted with the importance of 
this species of commerce, and more attentive to 
their own interests, it was still for a long time ea- 
sy to satisfy them at a small expence. With some 
degree of prudence, therefore, it would not have 
becij difficult to have continued this traffic upon 
an advantageous footing. Considerable fortunes 
were made with rapidity. But they w^ere almost 
as quickly dissipated as they hud been acquired ; 
like those moving hills, which in the sandy de- 
serts of Asia or of Africa, are drifted and deposit- 
ed by the whirlwinds, and which possessing no 
consistency or solidity, are by the same cause 
again as suddenly dispersed. 

Nothing was more common in New France, 
than to behold individuals, protracting in wretch- 
edness and miseiT a languishing old age^ after 
Imving through folly lost the opportunities winch 



224) CANADA. 

were afforded them of procuring an honourable 
subsistence. The condition ( f these people, un- 
worthy of the fortunes which it was once in their 
power to have crained, would by no means have 
become a subject of pubUc regret, had not ill ef- 
fects thence arisen to the colony, which was soon 
reduced to the mortification of finding almost to- 
tally exhausted, or diverted into other channels, a 
source of wealth which might have continued to 
How into its bosom. The origin of its ruin was 
generated from its too great abundance. 

By the immense accumulation of beaver skins, 
which always constituted a principal part of this 
commerce, so great a quantity was found in the 
magazines, that there was no longer any demand 
for them ; whence it arose, that the merchants 
were unwilling to receive any more The adven- 
turers theiefore, ^^ ho in Canada were stiled Cou- 
reiirs deBois, embraced the only opportunity which 
was offered for disposing of them,by carrying them 
to the English : and many of these people esta- 
blished themselves in the province of New York, 
The atten;pts made to prevent those desertions^ 
were not attended with success. On the contra^ 
ry, they whom interest had led into the territories 
of the English, were -there retained by the dread 
of punishment, should they return to their coun- 
try : and others, whose inclination disposed them 
to enjoy the freedom and libertinism of an err tic 
Biode of iifcj remained among the savages, from 



CANADA. 22S 

whom they could afierwards be distinguished, on- 
ly by tiieir exceeding them in vice and mimora- 
lit) • To recal these fugitives, recourse was at 
length had to the pubUcation of amnesties : and 
even this measure was long of little avail By 
prudence and perseverance, it at length produced 
in some degree the intended effect. 

Another mode yet more efficacious was employ- 
ed, that of granting to persons, on whose fideli- 
ty a reliance could be placed, licences to trade in 
the territories of the Indians, and of prohibiting 
all other inhabitants from leaving the colony. 
The nature of these licences^ and the conditions 
on which they were bestowed, has already been 
described in another work. ^ From this practice 
it arose, that a great proportion of the young 
men were continually w^andering throughout the 
distant forests : and although they committed not, 
at least so openly, the disorders which had 
brought such discredit on this occupation, jet 
they failed not to contract a habit of libertinism^ 
o5 which they could never wholly divest tliem- 
seives. They there lost all relish for industry : 
they exhausted their strength : they became im- 
patieftt of all restraint : and when no longer able 
to undergo the fatigue of these voyages, winch 
happened at an early period of life, because their 
exertions were excessive, they became destitute 
c' • ' ^^so-irce, and unfir [or ^he (iricrions '/f -''^e- 

* History of Canada, Book IV. page 19^. 



^26 CANADA. 

ty. Hence proceeded the cause thut agricuiturc 
was long neglected ; tliat immense tracts of ler- 
tile lands remained uncultivated ; and that the 
progress of population was retarded. 

It was repeatedly proposed to abolish these li- 
cences, so prejudicial to the advancement of im- 
provement, in such a manner as that the com- 
merce might not suffer, and with a view of ren- 
dering it even more flourishing. This design 
was to be effected by the formation of small set- 
tlements, in situations where it Vv'ould be conve- 
nient for the natives to assemble at certain sea- 
sons of the year. By this means it was conceiv- 
ed, that these vast countiies would become insen- 
sibly peopled ; and that the savages, attracted by 
the assistance and kindness ^\ hich they wou.d ex- 
perience from the French, would perhaps aban- 
don their erratic mode of life ; \\ ould thereby be 
exposed to less misery ; w ould multiply iiisicad 
of diminish in numbers ; and would form such 
an -ittachment to these Europeans, as perhaps 
would induce them* to become fellow subjects. 

Tiie several settlements oi Lorette, ol the sault 
Saint Louis, and others of the Aigonquins and of 
the domiciliated Abinaquis, exhibited examples 
of the probable success of that undertaking. It 
was however never put in execution : and the na- 
tives have rapidly decreased in numbers. An 
extended chain of settlements, at convenient dis^ 
tances from each other, might have been made : 



CANABA. 227 

livvl the colonies of Canada and Louislanii being 
thus connected, would have been enabled to hi^vc 
afFvirded each other mutual assistance. B} means 
like these the English, in less than a century and 
a half, peopled more than fifteen hundred miles of 
territory ; and thus created a power on this con- 
tinent not less formidable than dreaded by the 
French 

Canada has for many years carried on with the 
islands in the gulph of Mexico, a commerce in 
flour, planks, and other wood adapted for build- 
ings* As there is not, perhaps, another country 
in the world which produces a greater variety of 
woods, some of which are excellent in their kind^ 
considerable advantages are derived fj'om thence. 

Nothing so much contributed to the languish- 
ing state m which the trade of this colony was for 
some time retained, as the frequent alterations 
which took place in the medium of exchange. 
The company of the West Indies, to whom was 
conceded the domain of the French islands, was 
permitted to circulate there a small coin, w^hose 
number v/as not to exceed the value of a hundred 
thousand francs, and whose use in any other coun- 
try Avas prohibited. But. difRculties arising ii om 
the want of specie, the council published a decree, 
by which it was ordained, that this coin, and .ill 
other money which was in circulation in Fraice, 
should not only be used in the islands, but also in 
tlie provinces on the continent, on augm.entir^g' tl:ie 



"228 «ANA»A. 

Talue one-fourth. Tht: decree enjoined, that 
all notes of hand, accounts purchases, and pay- 
ments, should be made by every person without 
exception, at the rate of exchange thus settled- It 
had likewise a retrospective operation ; and stated, 
that all stipulations for contracts, notes, debts, 
rents, and leases, should be valued in money, ac- 
cording to that currency. 

This regulation tended, in its execution, to oc- 
isasion many difficulties. The intendant of Ca^ 
nada found at that period inexpressible embaiTass- 
ment, not only in the payment of the troops, but 
for all other expences of government in the colo- 
ny. The funds remitted for this purpose from 
France, arrived generally too late : and it was ne- 
cessary, on the first of January, to pay the officers 
and soldiers, and to satisfy other charges not less 
indispensable. To obviate the most urgent occa- 
sions, the intendant, with the concurreiice of the 
council, issued notes instead of money, observing 
always the proportional augmentation in the value 
of the coin. A proces verbal was accordingly 
framed : and by virtue of an ordinance of the Go- 
vernor-general and Intendant, there was stamped 
on each piece of this paper-money, which was a 
card, its value, the signature of the treasurer, an 
impression of the arms of France, and, on seal- 
ing-wax, those of the Governor and Intendant. 
They were afterwards imprinted in France, with 
the same impressions as the current money of the 



eANA»A. ^i) 

kingdom : and it was decreed, that before the 
arnvcn iu die colony, of vessels from France, a 
particular mark should be added, to prevent the 
introduction of counterfeits. 

This species of money did not long remain in 
circulation : and cards were again resorted to, on 
which new impressions were engraved. Those 
of the value of four livres and upwards, ^vere 
signed by the intendant, who was satisfied with 
distinguishing the others by a particular nrrk. 
Those which were six livres and upwards -he 
Governor- general formerly likewise signed. In 
the beginning of autumn all the cards w.re 
brought to the treasurer, who gave for their va- 
lue bills of exchange on the treasurer- general of 
the marine, or on his deputy at Rochefort, on ac- 
count of the expences of the ensuing year. 
Such cards as were spoiled, were not again used 
in circulation ; and were burnt agreeably to a 
proces verbal for that purpose. 

Whilst the bills of exchange continued to be 
faithfully paid, the cards were preferred to money. 
But when that punctuality was discontinued, they 
were no longer brought to the treasurer : and 
the intendant *- had much fruitless trouble in en- 
deavouring to recal those which he had issued. 
His successors, in order to defray the necessary 
expences of the government, were ob;ij:;cd to is» 

* M. de Champig'uy, in IfOS. 

u 



2S() eANABA. 

sue new cards every year ; by which means they 
became so nuiitiplied, that their value was anni- 
hilated, and no person would receive them in 
payment. Commerce, by this injudicious sys- 
tem of finance, was entirely deranged : and the 
inconvenience rose to such a height^ that in 17l3 
the inhabitants proposed to lose one-half, provid- 
ed the government would pay them the other in 
money. This proposal was in the following year 
agreed to : but the orders given in consequence 
were not carried into - compleat execution until 
four years afterwards. A declaration abolishing 
the paper money was then published : and the 
expences of the colony were again paid in cash. 
Trie augmentation of one-fourth was at the same 
time abolished, experience having suggested, 
that the increase of the value of money in a colo- 
ny is not an effectual means of retaining it there ; 
and that it cannot remain long in circulation, un- 
less the articles imported from the parent state be 
repaid in produce 

The commerce of the colony was, in 1706, car- 
ried on with a fund of six hundred and fifty thou- 
sand livres,-^ which for several years afterwards 
did not much augment. This sum, distributed 
among thirty thousand inhabitants, could not 
place them in affluent circumstances, nor afford 
them the means of purchasing the merchandise 
of France. The srreatcst rart of them "^'f^rc^ 



* 26,000/. sterling. 



CANADA. 231 

therefore, aimoet in a state of nature ; particular- 
1} they whose residence was in the remote settle- 
ments. Even the surpkis of their produce a-id 
stock they were unable to sell to the inhabitants 
of the towns ; because, in order to subsist, the 
ktter were necessitated to cultivate farms of their 
own. 

When the King withdrew Canada from the 
hands of the company of the Indies, he for some 
time expended on that province much larger por- 
tions of money than he did at any future peri( d : 
and the colony then remitted in beaver skins, to 
the value of a million of livres, a greater quantity 
than was afterwards exported. But articles w ere 
every year imported from France, amounting to 
a much greater value than could be paid r and 
the inhabitants acted like inconsiderate individu- 
als, whose expences far exceed their income. 

Thus fell the credit of the colony : and, in fall- 
ing, it occasioned the ruin of commerce, which, 
in i706, consisted only of fiirs of an inferior qua- 
lity. The merchants were, notwithstandingj 
emulous of purchasing them This circum- 
stance tended to accelerate their overthrow ; be- 
cause they frequently paid to the savages a higher 
price than these articles were sold for in France. 

When the French began their settlements in 
Canada, the country exhibited one vast ad un- 
bounded forest : and property was granted in ex- 
tensive lots, called Seigneuries, stretching tilong 



'252 CANArtA. 

either coast of the S.aiit Lav.-rence, for a distance 
of ninety miles below Quebec, and tiiirty niiies 
above Montreal, comprehending a space of three 
hundred miles in length. 

The seigneuries each contain from one hundred 
to five hundred square miles ; and are parceled 
out into small tracts, on a freehold lease to the 
inhabitants ; as the persons to vvhom they m ere 
grajited had not the means of cultivating them. 
These consisted of officers of the army, of geritie- 
mcn, and of communities, who were not in a 
st.:te to employ labourers and workmen. 7 he 
portion to each inhabitant was of three acres in 
breadth, and from seventy to eighty in depth, com- 
mencing on the banks of the river, and runniiig 
back into the woods, thus forming an entire and 
regular lot of land. 

To the proprietors of seigneuries some powers, 
as wtH as considerable profits, are attached. They 
are by their grants authorised to hold courts, and 
sit as judges in what is termed haute and basse 
justice^ which includes all crimes committed with- 
in their jurisdiction, treasons and murder except- 
ed. Few, however, exercised this privilege ex- 
cept the ecclesiastical seigneurs of Montreal, 
whose right of jurisdiction the king of France 
purchased from them, giving them in return his 
droit de change. Some of these seigneurs have a 
light .>i villain service from their tenants... 

At every transfer, or mutation of proprietor^ 



CANADA* ^o:y 

tile new purchaser is bound to pay a sum equal 
to a fifth part of the purchase money to the seig- 
neur, or to the king. But if this fine be paid imme- 
diately, only one-third of the fifth is demanded. 
This constituted a principal part of the king's re- 
venues in the province. When an estate fails by 
inheritance to a new possessor, he is by law ex- 
empted from the fine. 

The income of a seigneur is derived from the 
yearly rent of his lands, from lots et vents, or a fine 
on the disposal of property held under him, and 
from grist-mills, to whose profits he has an exclu- 
sive right. The rent paid by each tenant is in- 
considerable ; but they who have many inhabi- 
tants on their estates enjoy a tolerably handsome 
revenue, each person paying in money, grain, or 
other produce, from five to twelve livres per an- 
num. In the event of a sale of any of the lots of 
his seigneurie, a proprietor may claim a preference 
of re-purchasing it, which is seldom exercised, but 
with a view to prevent frauds in the disposal of 
the property. He may also, whenever he finds 
it necessary, cut down timber for the purpose of 
building mills, and making roads. Tythes of 
all the fisheries on his domain fikewise belong to 
him. 

Possessed of these advantages, seigneurs mi^ht 

in time attain to a state of comparative affluence, 

were their estates allowed to remain entire. 

But, by the practice of divisions among the differ* 

v2 



2o4i CANADA. 

ent children of a famil), they become, in a few 
generations, reduced The most ample bhi^re, 
which retains the nam^e o^ seigneur ie^ is the por- 
tior- of the eldest son. The other partitions are 
denominatedy^^oA. These are, in the next ge«. 
neration, again subdivided: and thus, in the 
course of a few descents, a seigneur is possessed 
of litde more than his title. TJiis is the condition 
of m.ost of those estates that have passed to the 
third or fourth sreneration. 

The inhabitants in like manner make divisions 
of their .small tracts of land: and a house will 
sometimes belong to several proprietors. It is 
from these causes that they are in a great measure 
retained in a state of poverty ; that a barrier to 
industry and emulation is interposed ; and that a 
spirit of litigation is excited. 

There are in Canada upwards of an hundred 
seigr.euries, of which that at Montreal, belong- 
ing to the seminary of Saint Sulpicius, is the rich- 
est and most productive. The next in value and 
profit is the territory of the Jesuits. The mem- 
bers of that society who resided at Quebec were, 
like the priests of Montreal, only agents for the 
head of their community. But since the expul- 
sion of their order from France, and the seizure, 
by the catholic sovereigns of FAirope, of all tlie 
lands of that society within their dommions. ihe 
Je.^uits in Canada held their sei^rieurie in their 
'^wn right 



CANADA. 23§ 

Some of the domiciliatv d savages hold, also, in 
the province, lands in the right of seigiiturs 

Upon a representation of the narrow circuni- 
staiices to which many of the noblesse and gentie- 
men of the colony were reduced, not only by the 
causes already assigned, but by others equally 
powerful, Louis the Fourteenth was induced to 
permit persons of that description to carry on 
commerce by sea or land, without being subject- 
ed to any enquiry on this account, or to an impu- 
tation of their having derogated from their rank in 
society. 

To no seigneiirie is the right of patronage to 
the church attached. It was upon the advance- 
ment of the pretensions of some seigneurs, found- 
ed on their having built parochial churches, that 
the king, in 1685, pronounced in council, that ihi% 
right should belong to the bishop, he being the 
most capable of judging concerning the qualifica- 
tions of persons w ho were to serve, and tlie in- 
comes of the curacies also being paid from ihe 
tythes, which belonged to him alone. The right 
of patronage was, at tlie same time, declared not 
to be reputed an honour- 

The salaries allotted to the officers of the civil 
departments in the French colonial governments 
were extremely moderate, and inadequate to sup- 
port their respective situations. In 1758, that of 
the VLiiquis de Vaudreuii governor and lieutenant- 
genersii of Canada, amounted to no uiorc than 



'2'^6 CANADA. 

272/. 15^. Sd. sterling ; out of which he was to 
clothe, maintain, and pay, a guard for himself, 
consisting of two serj cants and twenty five sol» 
diers, furnishing them with firing in winter, 
and with other necessary articles. The pay of 
the whole of the officers of justice and poUce was 
5 1 41. 1 Is sterling : and the total sum appropriated 
for the pay of the established officers, composing 
the A^arious branches of the civil power, exceeded 
not 380W Ss. sterling. 

At the period when this arrangement of pay 
w^as settled, these sums might, perhaps, have been 
considered as sufficiently ample To increase 
the salaries of the various officers of a government, 
when an augmentation of the value of the articles 
of life, disproportionate to their means, shall ren- 
der it expedient, is a measure of ministerial poli- 
cy, upon the whole not unprofitable to a state, 
A partial adherence to ancient regulations, with a 
view of conceahng the public expenditure, is a 
system of economy founded in error. This has, 
;in many instances, but particularly with regard ta 
the country of which we are speaking, been pro- 
ductive of a torrent ot general peculation, whose 
destructive course drew along with it embarrass- 
ments, which it required the strongest effiDrts of 
political wisdom to ren.edy and to overcome. 

The paper money in Canada amounted, in 
1754, to so large a sum. that the government was 
compelled to remit to a future period the payment 



CAI^ADA. . 237 

of it. Tlie quantity every day acquired an lu- 
cre ised accumulation : and this money fell at 
length into total disrepute. Merchandise rose in 
proportion as the medium of exchange became 
decried. The officers of government and the 
tr.)ops were the principal consumers : and the 
€vii of scarcity, and the discredit of the paper 
money, were chiefly derived from that cause la 
1759 the minister \^'as obliged wholly to suspend 
payment of the bills of exchange, whose amount 
was enormous. Considerable sums were, at the 
€o iciusion of the war, due by the government of 
Fr.mce to the Canadians : and Great Britain, 
whose subjects they were become, obtained for 
thcrn an indemnity of 112,0001. in bonds, and of 
24,0001. sterling in money. They therefore re- 
ceived in payment at the rate of fifty -five per cent* 
upon their bills of exchange, and thirty-four |;er 
cent, on account of their ordonnances or paper 
money. 

The derangement and defr.ult which we have 
stated, arose likewise in a great degree, from 'he 
mal-administration of finance, and from a total de- 
reliction of principle in those to whom that depart- 
ment was committed. 

From the foregoing facts it may easily be con- 
ceived, that when the English took possessiori of 
C i-!ada, they found its inhabitants to have made 
bur litrk pro?rrrss in commerce or in agriculture. 
The long continuance of warfare might have 



238 "CANADA. 

tended to depress the former ; hut the latter had 
never attained to any stage of improvement. 

One article of commerce the Canadians had, 
by their own imprudence, rendered altogether un^ 
profitable. Ginseng was first discovered in the 
woods of Canada in 1718. It was from that coun- 
try exported to Canton, where its quality was pro- 
nounced to be equal to that of the ginseng pro- 
cured in Corea or in Tartary : and a pound of 
this pl;;»nt, which before sold in Quebec for twen- 
typence, became, when its value was once ascer^ 
tained, worth one pound and tenpence sterling. 
The export of this article alone is said to have 
amounted, in 1 752, to twenty thousand pounds 
sterling. But the Canadians, eager suddenly to 
enrich themselves, reaped this plant in May, when 
it should not have been gathered until September, 
and dried it in ovens, when its moisture should 
have been gradually evaporated in the shade. 
This fatal mistake arising from cupidity, and in 
some measure from ignorance, ruined the sale of 
their ginseng, among the only people upon earth 
who. are partial to its use ; and at an early period 
cut off from the colony a new branch of trade, 
which under proper regulations, might have been 
essei^tially productive. 

The imports of Canada, during seven years of 
its most flourishing trade, previous to the con- 
quest of the country, amounted annually to about 
160.000/,, and sometimes to 240,000/. stening. 



CANADA. 239' 

The exports seldom exc^:;eded 80,000/. sterli^ig, 
and were irequeiitly less than that sui«. This 
deficiency was in a considerable degree supplied 
every year by theFi^nch government, which ex- 
pe ided large sums in bmiding ships and on the 
fortifications ; to which was added the payment 
of the troops, besides other disbursements. 
These, it has already been noticed, were settled 
by bills drawn on the treasury in France ; and, 
whilst they were punctually paid, sufficiently sup- 
plied ilie balance. 

The traders who emigrated thither from Great 
B itain found, for the first two or three years af- 
ter the reduction of the country, a considerable 
advantage in the great quantities of furs then in 
the colony, in bills drawn by those inhabitants 
who were determined to remain under the Bri- 
tish government, and who had money in France, 
in bills drawn on the paymaster- general of the 
forces, in London, for the subsistence of five or 
six regiments, and in what were termed Canada 
bills. But these resources became in a great de- 
gree exhausted : and commerce fell into a state 
of progressive languishment and decline. 

The inhabitants for upwards of a century had 
been accustomed to manufacture in their own la- 
milies, druggets, coarse liiiens, stockings, and 
worsted caps knitted with wires F;)r tiie men, 
a. id for themselves to wear during the suruiiier 
months, the women fabricated -hats and boiinets 



240 «ANAi>A. 

of Straw. Few European articles were at that 
time required b}' this people, who observed in their 
modes of iivmg the most rigid frugality. The 
wool produced from the breed of sheep is, from 
the coldness of the climate, of a nature too coarse 
to enter into the composition of fine cloths. The 
lint, tobacco, and hemp raised b} the inhabitants, 
are principally desigiied for the use of their fami^ 
lies. Liitii the arrival in the colony of some far^ 
mers from Great Britain, they were but little ac- 
quainted with the science of agriculture. No 
so ncr were the fields become exhausted, than 
the inhar.il oUts betook themselves to clear, and 
to cultivate new lands. They were igr.orant of 
the application of manure, and of the ameliora- 
tion which its introduction can effect, in the p-ro- 
ductive quality of soils. Their natural aversion 
to industry, their propensity to ease, and their 
disposition to vanity, induced a great part of the 
colonists to raise a larger proportion of horses 
than oi cattle ; the labour of the latter being found 
in tillage equally useful with that of the former, 
the sources of provision were thus unnecessarily 
stinted. 

The quantity of produce exported in 1769 
amounted in value to 63, 051 sterling; and 
was shipped in sevent} vessels belonging to 
Great Britah: and to her sul.jects in the difterent 
colonies in Norh America Rum, coffee, brt wn 
sugar, and molasses, were brougiit thidier from 



CANADA, -541 

the West Indies. Spain, Italy, and Portugal, 
supplied brand}^ wines, oils, and sail, in return 
for grain. Cloths, linens, muslins, silks, house- 
hold furniture, teas, refined sugars, tools, glass, 
utensils, colours, hard and crockery- ware, \vere 
•supplied by England. 

Not more than twelve small vessels were at this 
period engaged in the fisheries on the river Suint 
Lawi'cnce : and about six were sent to the West 
Indies. The construction of vessels was for a 
long time laid aside. This might, in some de- 
gree, be attributed to the scarcity of artificers^ 
and to the high wages which were consequently 
demanded. 

In the course of two or three years after the 
period we have now mentioned, the debts due to 
the colony were paid ; and paper money entirely 
disappeared. The commerce of Canada remain^ 
cd long in a state of fluctuation, caused by the in- 
crease or decrease of demand in European coun- 
tries, for the productions which it supplied. It 
seems, however, in a course of ten years, to have 
considerably augniented, and the nuniber of ves- 
sels employed in 1775 was ninety-seven, contain- 
ing ten thousand eight hundred and forty one 
tons. At tl^e end of ten years more, the trade 
appears not to have been so extensive ; fifty-seven 
ships only having been then entered at the port of 
Quebec. But the lapse of another period of ten 
years had contributed, ivs a great degree, to en^ 

X 



]arge it: and in 1795 not lev-, than abunrfred an(5 
twenty -eight vessels, amounting to nuietct.} thou- 
sand, nine hundred and fifty-three tons, navigated 
by one thousand and sixty-seven men, arrived in 
the Saint Lawrence. This increase may be at- 
tributed to the scarcity of grain which at that pe- 
riod prevailed in Great Britain, and in most of the 
other countries of Europe. Three hundred and 
ninety-five thousand bushels of wheat, eighteen 
thousand barrels of flour, and twenty thousand 
cwts. of biscuit, were that year exported from 
Canada. 

The advanced prices which were then given 
for wheat and other grain, tended to enrich the 
inhabitants ; and had an influence in augmenting 
the value of all the articles of life. Many of the 
Canadians, even at a distance from the capital, be- 
gan, from that period, to lay aside their ancient 
costume, and to acquire a relish for the manulac- 
tures of Europe. This revolution in dress has 
not a little contributed to the encouragement of 
commerce. 

The construction of vessels at Quebec had be- 
gun, in the course of the foregoing year, to be 
carried on with spirit and success, by a company 
of London*merchants, who sent to Canada an a- 
ge )c for conducting that branch. Several build- 
ers have since established themselves there : and 
from the demand which, in consequence of the 
war, has prevailed for vessels, they have reaped 
considerable profits. 



CAN- A DA. 24S 

A lar^e exportation of grain took place in 1 799, 
and = Ue three following year^. The quantity in 
1802 was one million and ten thousand bushels of 
wheat, thirty-eight thousand barrels of flour, and 
thirty-two thousand cwts. of biscuit. The num- 
bei- of vessels engaged in the export of these, and 
other productions of the colony, was two hundred 
and eleven. The quantity of tonnage was near 
thirty-six thousand : and the number of sailors 
was one thousand eight hundred and fifty. 

Tiie exports from Canada consist of wheat 
and other grain, flax-seed, beef and pork, butter 
and lard, soap and candles, grease and tallow, 
balsam, ale, porter, essence of spruce, salmon 
dry and pickled, flsh-oil, tin.ber, plank, boards, 
hemp, horses, cattle, sheep, pot and pearl-as^.^s, 
utensils of cast iron, furs of various descnpiionSj 
castoreum and ginseng. These articles amo'jirt d 
in value, in the year mentioi ed above, to live 
hundred and sixty-three thousand four hundred 
pounds sterling. 

The imports w^ere, wme of various kinds, rum. 
sugar, molasses, coiFee, tobacco, salt, coals, aiid 
different articles of the manufacture of Great Bri- 
tain. 

The colonial revenues in that year amounted to 
thirty-one thousand two hundred pounds ; and 
were derived from in posts, duties, lots et vents, 
and rents of property belonging to the king. The 
expenditures were forty-tiiree thousand two hun 
di'ed pounds* 



244 CANADA. 

The forges of Three Rivers and BattiscaH noi 
only supply the colony with utensils and stoves of 
cast iron, but likewise afford a quantity of those 
articles for exportation. At the former of these 
manufactories, hammered iron of the best quality 
is made. 

The fur trade had, for a long period after the 
settlement of the English in Canada, been con= 
dueled by a variety of individuals: and the inter- 
ruption which it experienced, during the war be- 
nveen Great Britain and her colonies, cut oif for 
a time the profits which formerly flowed into the 
province from that source. 

At length, about the year 17S4, a gentleman^ 
of Montreal, whose mind was active and enter- 
prising, formed an association of several mer- 
chants of that place, for the purpose of pushing 
this branch of commerce to a greater extension 
than it had ever before acquired. The associates 
-stiied themselves the Company of the North-west, 
as it is from that quarter that the objects of their 
pursuit are principally derived, and for W'hich the 
vast and immeasurable tracts of territory, yet un- 
explored by Europeans, seemed to present a pro- 
ductive and inexhaustible field. Several indivi- 
duals, actuated by a spirit of adventure and disco- 
very, as well as by the hope of profit, traversed 
an immense tract of wilds, to the westward and 
towards the north. One gentleman,! upwards of 

* Mr, Mactavish. t ^^^ Alexander Mackenzie. 



CANAI5A, 245 

twelve years ago, particularly distinguished him- 
self as the first who ever travelled across the con- 
tinent of America, in these high latitudes, to the 
shores of the Pacific (^cean ; an undertaking whose 
acco.npiis jment demanded the greatest stretch of 
resolution, prudence, firmness, and exertion. 
More than one attempt has since been made to 
perform the same journey, but without success. 

Although, previous to the year 1790, im nense 
quantities of furs were every year exnorted from 
Canada, yet the profits were not at that time by 
any means equal to those afterwards arising from 
this branch of commerce. A great proportion of 
peltry, particularly that of beaver, enters into the 
composition of some manufactures : but the price 
of furs is in a great measure influenced by fashion. 
By this standard, which constitutes the increase 
or decrease of demand, the market is principally 
regulated. The consumption of peltry for dress 
has, fortunately for the fur merchants, prevailed 
for many years past, and several have from this 
cause acquired independent fortunes. 

The company trading to the north-west sends 
every year, to the posts on Lake Superior, about 
fifty canoes loaded with raerchajidise. These le 
dispatched about the beginning of May, from La 
Chine, a distance of nine miles above Montreal, 
The canoes are formed of the bark of the birch- 
tree, and closely lined with thin ribs made of a 
tough wood. The seams are sewed with radical 
X 2 



24& CANADA, 

fibres, called watape: and they are afterwards 
carefully covered over with gum to exclude the 
water. The bottom of the vessel is nearly flat, 
the sides are rounded, and cither end terminates 
in a sharp edge. The price of one of these is 
about twelve pounds sterling ; and it is calculated 
to contain, on the perilous voyage for which it is 
destined, a weight equal to that which follows : 
Sixty-fi\e pieces of merchandise of ninety pounds 
each ; eight men, each weighing at least one hun- 
dred and sixty pounds ; baggage allowed to these 
men, at forty pounds each, together with the 
weight of their provisions. The whole cargo of 
a canoe is, therefore, not less than eight thousand 
diree hundred and ninety pounds, exclusive of 
two oil cloths to cover the goods, a sail and an 
axe, a towing-line to drag the canoe up the rapids, 
a kettle, a sponge to bail out the water imbibed 
by leakage ; Vv ith gum, bark, watape, and uten- 
sils for repairing any injury which may be sus- 
tained on the voyage. The men are - engaged at 
Montreal four or five months before they set out 
on their journey ; and receive in advance their 
equipment, and one third of their wages- Each 
man holds in his hand a large paddle : and the 
canoe, although loaded within six inches of the 
gunwale, is made to move along with wonderful 
expedition. The voyageurs, or navigators, are 
of constitutions the strongest and most robust : 
and they are at an early period inured to the en- 



CANABA. 24? 

Counter of hardships. The fare on which they 
subsist is penurious and coarse.* Fortified by- 
habit against apprehension from the species of dif- 
ficulties and perils with which they are about to 
struggle, they enter on their toils with confidence 
and hope. Whilst moving along the surface of 
the stream, they sing in alternate strains the songs 
and music of their country, and cause the deso- 
late wilds on the banks of the Outaouais, to re- 
sound with the voice of cheerfulness They 
adapt their strokes in rowing to the cadence of 
their strains ; and redouble their efforts by mak- 
ing them in time. In dragging the canoes up the 
rapids, great care is necessary to prevent them 
from striking against rocks; the materials of 
which they are composed being slight and easily 
damaged. When a canoe receives an injury, 
the aperture is stopped with gum melted by the 
heat of a piece of burning charcoal. Fibres of 
bark bruised, and moistened with gum in a liquid 
state, are applied to larger apertures. A linen 
rag is put over the whole, and its edges are ce« 
mented with gum. 

The total number of men contained in the ca» 
noes, amounts usually to about three hundred 
and seventy-three, of which three hundred and 
fifty are navigators ; eighteen are guides ; and 
five are clerks. When arrivc-rl it ■^h<^ '-^^n^ r|e- 

* Chiefly the grease of the bear, and a meal, or coarss floiM^ 
'Eaade from Indiani corn. 



248 <fANA»A, 

pot, on Lake Superior, part of these acend as far 
a-, the Rain\ Lake: and they are usjaiiy ai ^^nt 
from Montreal about five months. The guides 
are paid for this service thirty -seven pounds ster- 
ling, and are allowed besides, a suitable equip- 
ment. The wages of the person w ho sits in the 
front of the canoe, and of him whose offtce it is to 
steer, are about twenty -one pounds sterling each ; 
those of the ether men, about twelve pounds ten 
shillings of the same money. 

To each man, a blanket, shirt, and pair of trow- 
sers are supplied : and all are maintained by their 
employers during the period of their eiigagement- 
The advantage of trafficking with the savages is 
likewise permitted : and some individuals pro- 
cure by this means a profit amounting to more 
than double their pay. 

From La Chine, the voyagers proceed with 
the little fleet of canoes, to the parish of Saint Ann, 
where the river becomes so rapid and broken, that 
they are necessitated to take out a part of their 
lidding This situation containing the last church 
Tvhich is met with on the voyage, excepting those 
belonging to Indian missions, it is dedicated to 
the tutelar saint of voyagers : and the commence- 
ment of the route is reckoned from hence. 

The lake of the tvvo mountains is an enlarge- 
ment of the Grand, or Outaouais river, immedi- 
ately behind the island of Montreal ; and is ne. rly 
twenty miles in length, but of unequal width. As. 



CANADA. 249 

ill many parts it is not much above three miles 
broad, its boixlers are distinctly seen on each side; 
and present to the view fields in a state of cultiva- 
tion, intermingled with woods. Two gc tly 
swelling hills, which rise on its north-east coast, 
and have been dignified with the appellation of 
mountains, give to the lake its name. On a point 
of land stretching from under these, an Indian vil- 
lage called Canasadago, is situated, composed of 
two associations of domiciliated natives, one of 
the Algonquin, and the other of the Iroquois 
tribe. The village is separated by the church 
into tv/o parts, the Algonquins possessing the east, 
and the Iroquois the western extremity. The 
whole of the inhabitants may amount to about two 
thousand. Each tribe has its distinct missionary : 
and the rites of the Roman Catholic religion are, 
in the same chapel, regularly and alternately per- 
formed in the respective tongues of these natives. 
The tract of land on which the village is built, be- 
longs to the seminary of Montreal : and these 
Christian Indians are permitted by that communi- 
ty to retain it in their possession, A small por^ 
tion of it only is cultivated by the women : and 
they reap from thence a moderate supply of In- 
dian corn, tobacco, and culinary herbs. Like 
the other domiciliated natives of the colony, a 
considerable part of the men and women spend 
the winter in the woods, and in the occupation 
Gf the chace. 



^5Q CAN'ADA. 

Lake Chaiidiere ih distant about one hundreS 
miles from that of the two mountains. Here a 
waterfall occupies the breadth oi the river ; and, 
dashing over a rugged and irregular cliff, of i:b('Ut 
thirty feet in altitude, exhibits to the view of the 
traveller, in the midst of a territory where drei^ry 
solitude prevails, an object at once brilliant, en- 
livening, and picturesque. Part of the river here 
diverging into a contrary channel, assumes a re- 
tr<^)grade course ; and pours into a basin, whose 
waters entirely disappear, but have probabi}- a 
subterraneous communication with the channel 
ferther down. 

The river Rideau, directing its course from the 
southward, joins the Outaouais about a league 
below the fall now described, and presents a 
pleasing cataract. At a distance of forty miles 
up the latter, the falls of Les Chats disclose them- 
selves to the eye, where overhanging woods, 
rocks placed in perpendicular positions, and 
clouds of resplendent foam rolling down the pre- 
cipice, contribute, anud the gloom of desolation, 
to cheer the mind of the observer. On the left 
side the largest body of water ilovrs : and on the 
right there are several apertures en the summit 
of the clifF, through which the bursting ^vaters 
forjc a passage, a: id falling upon irregular pro- 
je •^•ions! are tossed outward's, .s if driven by the 
revolution of wheels. The stream swiitly sweeps 



CANADA. :^51 

jfrom the basin over broken a ?d shelving rocks; 
and iorais a variety of small cataracts. 

When, in ascending the Outaouais, the voy- 
agers approach the rapids, they draw the ca* ces 
to the shore, excepting one, which they join in 
dragging up, and lodge hi a place of secu-ity. 
Another is in like manner conducted to the head 
of the torrent, and they thus continue to drag un- 
til the whole are assembled. At the |x>rn.ges, 
where waterfalls and cataracts oblige them to un- 
load, tiie men unite in aiding each other to con- 
vey the canoes and goods across the i md, by c;ir- 
rying the former upon the shoulders of six or 
eight men, and the latter upon the back. A 
package of merchandise forms a load for one 
man; and is sustained by a belt which he places 
over his forehead. 

They form iheir encampments at night upon 
islands, or upon the borders of the river. The 
murmuring sound of the streams, the wildncss 
of the situation, and remoteness from the habita- 
tion'^ of men, added to the nocturnal gloom, pow- 
criuily inVite the imagination to indulge itself in 
a train of melansholy reflections. On the north- 
east shore, about sixty miles higher up than the 
falls last described, is the site of an old French 
fort called Coulogiie ; and six miles farther is 
tbit of another, named Defon. At a distance of 
severity -t\v^o miies from the latter, is point ati 
Baptkeme, so deaomiaatedj, because the rude cc- 



-252 CANADA. 

remony is here performed of plunging into the 
waters of :he Outaouais, such persons as have 
Bever before travelled thus far. An ordeal from 
which exemption may be j^urchased, by the pay- 
ment of a fine. The land here rises into hills, 
whose summits are conical, presenting a scene 
rugged and romantic. 

The torments inflicted by legions of musquitos 
and flies, in journeying through these wildernes- 
ses, are intolerable to an European. But the har- 
dy Canadians seem to disregard them, or to be but 
little subject to their attacks. At certain times 
the men put their canoes on shore, in order to 
cook their food; or, to use their own expression, 
four fair la chaudiere. 

The channel of this river is in many situations 
interspersed with a multitude of islands, and its 
course is interrupted by a great variety of cata- 
racts and rapids. About a hundred and tv/enty 
miles from point au Bapthemc, the great brand; 
of ^.he Outaouais flowing h'om Lake Tamiscam- 
inc. , is passed by the traveller on his right, and the 
car;oes proceed upwards by the smaller branch; 
havii'g ascei.ded tliis about thirty-six miles, the 
fall oi Paresseux opens on the sight. Although 
nf >t exceeding a height of twenty-five feet, it forms 
an object not less interesting than pleasing. Mas- 
ses of stone rise above the summit of the fall, and 
di.^close them^selves part of the way down it's 
course. 1 he rough convexities, and the ravines 



CANADA. ^53 

which liave been worn in tlie cliff, covered with 
boiling, restless clouds of foam, present a combi- 
nation of lustre, motion, and unremitting sound. 

Twenty-live miles from hence the voyagers 
walk along a carrying-place of eight hundred pa= 
ces, named portage premier musique ; pass up a 
small lake of nearly the same length ; and enter on 
a second portage mitsiqtie of t^^ elve hundred pa- 
ces. From thence to the height of lands, and to 
the source of the smaller branch of the Outaouais, 
the distance is thirty miles. On quitting this 
branch they proceed by a portage of twenty acres 
to the small and winding stream named Chaussec 
de Castor, some of whose sinuosities are avoided 
by a second and third portage of five hundred pa- 
ces each. They then enter Lake Nipissing, 
whose length is fifty miles, and whose discharge 
into Lake Huron, through a course of a hundred 
and eight miles, is called French river, on which 
there is one carry ing- place. After having thus 
encountered the toils of thirty- six portages, the 
voyagers navigate their canoes along the northern 
coast of Lake Huron ; and pursue their route to 
the cascades of Saint Mary, a description of which 
has already be^n given. 

In travelling to the north-west by the Outaouais 
river, the distance from Montreal to the upper 
/end of Lake Huron is nine hundred miles. I'he 
journey may be performed in a light canoe, in the 
space of about twelve days ; and in heavy canoe.s^ 



254 CANADA. 

in less than three weeks ; which is astoni^ingly 
quick, when we reflect on the number of portages^ 
and powerful currents to be passed. 

About one-third of the men we have mention- 
ed, remain to winter in the remote territories, du- 
ring which the) are occupied in the chace : and 
for this service their wages and allovv ances are 
doubled. The other two-thirds ire engaged for 
one or two years ; and have attached to them 
about seven hundred Indian women and children, 
maintained at the expence oi the company. The 
chief occupation of the latter is to bcrape and clean 
the parchm.ents, and to make up and arrange the 
packages of peltry. 

The period of engagement for the clerks is five 
or seven years, during wliich the whole of the 
pay Oi each is no m.ore than one hundred pounds, 
together v. 1th clothing and board. V\ hen the 
term of indenture is expired, a clerk is either ad- 
mitted to a share in the company, or has a salary 
of from one hundred to three hundied pounds 
per aimum^ until an opportunity of a more ample 
provision presents itself. 

The guides, v. ho perform likewise the functions 
of interpreters, receive, besides a quantity of 
goods, a salary of about eighty five pounds per 
annum. The foremen and stcerbmen who v»inU-r, 
have about fifty pounds sterling : and they vvho 
are termed the middle men in the canoes, have 
SL'jiA\X. eighteen pounds sterling per awiufu^ Vvitii 
their clothing and maintenance. 



CANADA. 255 

xhe number of people usually employed in the 
north-west trade, and in pay of the companyp 
amounts, exclusive of savages, to twelve hur]- 
dred and seventy or eighty men ; fifty of wliora 
are clerks; seventy- one interpreters and under 
clerks; eleven hundred and twenty are canoe- 
men ; and thirty. five are guides. 

The beaver skin is, among the savages, the me- 
dium of barter : and ten beaver- skins are eiven 
for a gun ; one for a pound of powder ; and one 
for two pounds of glass beads. Two martin skins 
are equal in value to one beaver skin , and twa 
beaver to one otter skin. 



ki56 CANADA.. 



CHAPTER X. 

Former state of colonial goveryiment — introduction of 
the criminal code of England — ^lebec Bill — new 
constitution — sketch of that system — division of Cu' 
nada into two Provinces — a'nd of these into counties 
— advantages of Canadian sett'ers'— state ef society^-' 
manners^— -character of the hah'^tants^ or Land-hold- 
ers — mode of clearing lands — acquisition cf proper- 
ty- — Seigneuries — produce of soils — agriculture — 
Upper Ca?iada — cold, and causes of its long domina- 
tio?i — travelling in ivinter — roads — houses, 

THE white inhabitants of Canada amountedj 
in 1758, to ninety. one thousand, exclusive of the 
regular troops, which were augmented or dimin- 
ished, as the circumstances and exigencies of the 
country might require. The domiciliated Indians 
who were collected into villages, in different situ- 
ations in the colony, were about sixteen thou- 
sand : and the number of Frenchmen and Cana= 
dians resident at Quebec was nearly eight thou- 
sand. 

Previous to the year 1660, the influence of law 
was altogether unkno\^ni in Canada. The autho» 
rity was entirely military : and the will of the go- 
vernor, or of his lieutenant, was submitted to 
without ever being questioned. The sole power 
of bestowing pardon, of inflicting punishment, of 
distributing rewards, of exacting fines, was vested 



CAKTADAo ' 2B7 

in him alone. He could imprison without a sha- 
dow of delinquency, and cause to be revered as 
acts of justice all the irregularities of his caprice. 

In the year mentioned above, a tribunal, to de- 
cide definitively on all law-suits of the colonists, 
was established in the capital. The coutume de 
J^ariSf modified by local combinations, formed 
the code of these laws. 

During the first four years after Canada came 
into possession of the British, it was divided into 
three military governments. At Quebec, and at 
Three Rivers, officers of the army became judges 
in causes civil as well as criminal. These impor- 
tant functions were, at Montreal, committed to 
the better order of inhabitants. An equal want 
of legal information appears to have been the lot 
of all parties : and the commandant of the dis- 
trict, to whom an appeal from their sentences 
could be made, was no less defective in jurispru* 
dence. 

The coast of Labrador was, in 1 764, dismem- 
bered from Canada, and added to the government 
of Newfoundland : and Lake Champlain, with all 
the territory to the southward of the forty-fifth de- 
gree of north latitude was joined to the province of 
New York. 

The extensive regions to the north, and west of 
Michilimakinac, in Lake Huron, v/ere left with- 
out any jurisdiction. The territory firom the 
T 2 



258 CANADA. 

mouth of the Saint Lawrence, as far as that islandj 
was placed under the authorit}' of one chief. 

The laws of the adnuralty of England were, at 
the same time, establbhed there : but these could 
only have a reference to the subjects of that coun- 
try, into whose hands the whole of the maritime 
commerce necessarily Howed. To this improve- 
ment, beneficial to the interests of the colony, 
another of yet greater importance was added. 
Tiiis was tlie criminal code of England. 

Before the introduction of this equitable mode 
of administering justice, a criminal, real or sup- 
posed, could be seized, thrown into coniinemxnt, 
and interrogated, without a knowledge of his 
crime or of bis accuser; without being able to 
call to his aid, or to the alleviation of his distress, 
tidier friends, relatives or counsel. 

He was compelled upon oath to declare the 
truth, or, in other words, to accuse himself, with- 
out any validity being attached to his solemn aiEr- 
mation. It was the province of the lav/yers or 
judges to embarrass him with captious questions, 
which could be more easily evaded, or more suc- 
cessfully answered, by effrontery and hardened 
villainy, than by innocence, involved and con- 
founded in a labyrinth of false accusation. The 
function of judge appeared to consist in the art 
of fmding out the greatest number of persons 
V, horn he might accuse. The witnesses who had 
nii.de depositions against the criminal were act 



CANADA. 259 

introduced to his presence until the instant before 
judgment v/as pronounced, by which he was ei- 
ther acquitted or dehvered over to immediate pun- 
ishment. In the former case, the person innocent 
obtained no indemnity : and a sentence of capital 
punishment was followed by confiscation of pro- 
perty. Such is the abridgment of the French 
criminal law. 

The Canadians readily conceived, and felt, in 
a lively manner, the inestimable advantage of a 
system of jurisdiction too equitable to admit of 
any of the tyrannical modes of procedure which 
they had before been accustomed to witness or 
experience. 

These people viewed not, however, with an 
equal degree of satisfaction the introduction of 
the civil code of England. They were prompted 
by habit and prejudice to give a preference to the 
anient system under which their property had 
been protected. The magistrates, and other ad- 
ministrators of justice, found it, therefore, expe- 
dient to depart from the letter of the law, and to 
incline in their decisions, to the maxims which 
had before prevailed. 

By an act called the Quebec act, passed in the 
British legislature in 1775, Canada was extended 
to its ancient limits ; and its former system of 
civil law, the coutiime de Paris^ was restored. 
The criminal and maritime regulations of England 
were retained^ free exercise of the Roman catho- 



260 CANADA. 

lie religion was allowed : and the profession of that 
fliith was declared to be no impediment to the 
rights of the subject, or to his holding any office 
under the colonial government. Ecclesiastical 
dimes, and fecdal obligations, resumed their va- 
lidity. 

A council formed by the sovereign might annul 
these arrangements, and exercise any power ex- 
cept that of imposing taxes. This body consisted 
of the heutenant-govemor, chief justice, secreta- 
ry of the province, and of twenty other members 
chosen indifferently from the two nations, and sub- 
ject only to an oath of fidelity. Each of these re- 
ceived a salary of an hundred pounds sterling a 
year. The expences of the civil government of 
the colony amounted, at that period, to twenty- 
five thousand pounds sterling a year, exclusive of 
the governor's salary. The amount of the colo- 
nial revenue exceeded, not nine thousand pounds 
sterling. 

This plan of vesting in the same individuals 
the executive and legislative powers was not, by 
any means, productive of satisfaction. The sub- 
jects who had emigrated thither from Great Bri- 
tain, and who had established themselves in the 
colony, were displeased to behold a portion of 
their most valuable privileges withdrawn from 
their reach : and the Canadians, who had begun 
to relish the advantages of a free government, and 
who were encouraged to look forward for the in» 



CANADA^ 261 

troduction of the English constitution, viewed 
with concern a barrier interposed to the accom- 
pHshment of their expectations. The system was 
not contemplated with partiality, even on the part 
of the statesman by whom it was originally framed. 
But its temporary operation was considered as 
expedient, on account of the symptoms of discon- 
tent which had then appeared in several of the 
British provinces on the continent of North Ame- 
rica. 

The country continued to be governed in this 
mode until 1792. By an act of the thirty-first 
year of his present majesty's reign, the Quebec 
bin already mentioned, was repealed, and all the 
advantages of the British constitution extended 
to this part of the empire. Agreeably to this 
law, Quebec was divided into two separate pro- 
vinces, the one called Upper, the other Lower 
Canada. A legislative council and an assembly 
were at the same time constituted to each : and 
these bodies were empowered, with the assent of 
the governor, to pass such laws as should not be 
repugnant to the act to which they owed their 
poUtical existence. The legislative council of Up- 
per Canada consists of not fewer than seven 
members ; and that of Lower Canada of not few- 
er than fifteen, subject to be augmented according 
to the royal pleasure. The members must be na- 
tural born subjects, persons naturalized, or such 
persons as became subjects by the conquest and 



262 CANADA. 

cession of the country. By a residence out of 
their respective provinces for a period of four en» 
tire successive years, without leave from his ma- 
jesty, or for the space of two continued years 
w ithout leave from the governor, or by taking an 
oath of allegiance to any foreign power, the seats 
of any members of the legislative council become 
vacated. These offices are otherwise held during 
life. The right of appointing or of removing the 
speaker of the legislative council is vested in the 
governor. 

His majesty reserves to himself the power of 
creating, whenever he may think it expedient, 
dignities or titles in these provinces, descendable 
to heirs male, vvho m.ay have the privilege of be- 
ing summoned, when of age, to a seat in the le- 
gislative council. But this, on account of cer- 
tain incapacities, may be suspended during life, 
and be resumed by the next lawful heir, on the 
death of the party who had been so deprived of 
his privilege. 

The governor, by the king's authority, is em- 
powered to call a house of assembly, whose mem- 
bers must be chosen for the counties or circles, 
by persons possessed of landed property of the 
clear yearly value of forty shillings sterling or up- 
wards. For the towns the representatives must 
be elected by voters whose property consists of a 
dwelling-house and lot of ground in the town, of 
the yearly value of five pounds sterling or up- 



CANADA. 26)3 

wards, or who have been resident in the town for 
twelve months next before the date of the writ of 
summons, and shall have paid one year's rent for 
a dwelling or lodging, at the rate of at least ten 
pounds sterling per annum. 

The council and assembly must be convoked 
once in tvv^eive months: and each legislature con- 
tinues for a term of lour years and no longer, sub- 
ject, however, if necessary, to be dissolved previ- 
ous to the expiration of that period. 

The king in council may declare his disallow- 
>:ance of any provincial act within two } ears h om 
the time of its receipt in England : and all bills 
reserved for his majesty's pleasure, are to have 
no operation or validity until the royal assent be 
commuaicated to the colonial legislature. 

A court of civil jurisdiction, composed of the 
governor with the executive council, for the pur- 
pose of hearing and deciding on appeals from the 
courts of law, v/as, by the same act, established 
in both provinces. From hence a furthxr appeal 
may be made to the king in council. 

The lands in Upper Canada must be granted 
in free and common soccage : and those in the 
lower province must likewise be bestowed ac- 
cording to the- same mode of tenure, if required 
by the grantee. 

The go'x'ernor of either province, upon being 
so authorized by his majesty, may with the advice 
of his couacii, erect parsonages, and endov; them. 



264 CANADA. 

He may also present incumbents, afl of whom 
must be subject to the ecclesiastical power of the 
protestant bishop 

The operation of this act of the British legisla- 
ture was, by proclamation of the lieutenant-go- 
vernor, declared to take effect in both provinces 
on the twenty- sixth day of December 1791 : and 
another proclamation was published on the se- 
venth of May in the following year, for the divi- 
sion of the province of Lower Canada into coun- 
ties, cities and boroughs. On the fourteenth of 
the same month writs were issued, returnable on 
the tenth of July. The names of the counties are j 
Caspe, Cornwallis, Devon, Hertford, Dorches- 
ter, Buckinghamshire, Richelieu, Bedford, Sur- 
rey, Kent, Huntingdon, York, Montreal, Effing- 
ham, Leinster, Warwick, Saint Maurice, Hamp- 
shire, Quebec county, Northumberland, Orleans, 
The cities, Quebec, upper and lower town, 
Montreal, eastward and v/estward divisions ; bo- 
roughs, William Henry or Sorel, and Three Ri- 
vers. 

An act was passed in 1 794 for the division of 
the province of Lower Canada into three districts, 
and for augmenting the number of judges ; in con- 
sequence of which, the courts of judicature at 
Quebec are now composed of a chief justice and 
three puisne judges ; those of Montreal of a chief 
justice and three puisne judges ; that of Three Ri- 
vers, of one judge ; and that of Gaspe, of one 
judge. 



• ANACA, 265 

Eveiy person in Canada may liave within his 
power the means of acquiring a subsistence. The 
necessaries of hfe are, in general, there to be pro- 
cured at a cheaper rate than in most of the other 
parts of North America. The chmate, ahhough 
frequently incUning to extremes, both in cold and 
in heat, is nevertheless favourable to human 
health, and to the increase of population. 

The number of noblesse born in the province 
amounted, during the French government, to 
more than that of all the other colonies. This 
circumstance originated from several families there 
having been ennobled by the sovereign, and from 
several officers of the regiment of Carignan-Sa- 
lieres having remained in the colony after the re» 
duction of their corps. The population thus con- 
sisted, in a considerable proportion, of gentlemen 
who found themselves in situations by no means 
affluent. They became, therefore, necessitated 
to avail themselves of the privilege granted by 
Louis the Fourteenth to persons in their condi- 
tion ; and had recourse, for their support, to the 
occupation of retailers of merchandise. 

The right of the chace and of fishing is here 
extended to all persons. The taxes, chiefly de- 
rived from wine and spirituous liquors, can by 
no means be considered as burdensome. 

The inhabitants of Canada may be divided in- 
to four classes— those belonging to the church 
and to religious orders ; the noblesse or seigneurs s 

Z 



^bO CANADA. 

the mercantile body ; and the land holders, stiled 
habit aiits. 

The Roman catholic clergy of the province are 
more distinguibhed by devotion, benevolence, 
inoffensive coiduct, and humility, than they are 
by learning or geiuus. They are regular and ri- 
gid in the praciice of tht ir religious ceremonies, 
and more devout, with perhaps less bigotry, th..n 
the ecclesiastics of any other country where the 
same religion prevails. 

The merchants are of two kinds, the importers 
and the retailers. The latter receive the mer- 
chandise on credit, and being settled in different 
parts of the province, give produce in return for 
their goods. 

In 17o3 an account was taken of the number 
of inhabitants in the province ; it was fecund to 
amount to one hundred and thirteen thousand of 
English and French ; exclusive of the loyalists 
who settled in the upper province, and ^^ ere in 
number about ten thousand. The population of 
Lov/er Canada may at present be admitted, by 
moderate computation, to be not less than two 
hundred and fifty thousarid persons ; and that of 
the upper province eighty thousand. 

The secular and regular priests in the country 
exceed not a hundred and eighty ; and the lium- 
ber of nuns of different orders ma} amount to two 
hundred and fifty. There are upv\ards of a hun- 
dred and twenty churches, and seven cou vents," 



CANADA. 267 

The habitants^ or landholders, are honest, hos= 
pitable, religious, inoffensive, Ui .informed ; pos= 
sessing much simplicity, modesty, and civility. 
Indolent., attached to ancient prejudices, and limit- 
ing their exertions to an acquisition of the neces- 
saries of life, they neglect the convemences« 
Their propensity to a state of inaction, retains 
many of them in poverty. But as dieir wants 
are circumscribed, they are happy. Contentment 
of mind, and mildness of disposition, seem to be 
the leading features in their character. Their ad- 
dress to strangers is more polite and unembarras- 
sed than that of any other peasantry in the Vv'orld. 
Rusticity, either in manners or in language, is 
u iknown even to those who reside in situations 
the most remote from the towns. They have 
little inclination for novelty or improvement ; and 
exhibit no great portion of genius, wliich may 
perhaps be in some degree attributed to the want 
of education, of examples to pursue, and of oppor- 
tunities to excite emulation, or to unfold the la- 
tent qualities of the mind. 

Their constitution, at an early period of life, is 
healthy and robust : and they can with patience 
and resolution encounter great fatigues, when ne- 
cessity calls for exertion. Both men and women 
frequently live to an advanced period of life : 
but they soon look old ; and their strength is not 
of long duration. Many of the v^^omen are hand- 
some when young : but as they partake of the 



i^Gd CANADA. 

labours of the field, and expose themselves upon 
all occasions to the influence of the weather, the j 
soon become of a sallow hue, and of a niasculine 
form. Each family can, from its own resources, 
supply its wants. They manufacture their own 
linens and woollen stuffs ; tan the hides of their 
cattle ; make shoes and stockings ; are their own 
carpenters, masons, wheelers, and taylors. They 
are sufficiently intelligent with regard to objects 
which relate to tl.eir own interest; and are "sel- 
dom liable to be over- reached. 

They are, with some degree of justice, taxed 
with ingratitude. This may perhaps proceed 
from their natural levity, which incapacitates the 
mind from receiving a sufficient impression of ob- 
ligations bestowed. They are bad servants ; be- 
cause indolence and a spirit of independence make 
the yoke of subjection, however light, appear ;^ 
them burdensome and unpleasant.* They who 
are masters are, on the contrary, kind and indul- 
gent to their domestics. Accustomed to concern 
themselves only in their own affairs, they are not 
remarkable for constancy in friendship. 

On the commencement of winter, the habitants 
kill their hogs, cattle, and poultry, for their own 
consumption, and for sale at market. The pro- 
visions are kept m the garrets of the dwelling- 
houses, where they soon become frozen ; and are 
thus preserved until wanted for use. Vegetables 
are deposited in cellars^ or in excavations of the 



CANADA. 269 

earth made for the purpose, beyond the influence 
of the cold. The whole of the Canadian inhabi- 
tants are remarkably fond of dancing ; and fre- 
quently amuse themselves at all seasons with that 
agreeable exercise. 

To clear lands in Lower Canada, they cut down 
the wood Vvdth a hatchet, heap it together, and 
burn it. The large roots are extirpated by dig- 
ging into the ground. The soil thus laid open be- 
comes covered with vegetation : and cattle arc 
sent to graze upon it. This mode is tedious 
and expensive ; and costs, including labour, a- 
bout thirty shillings sterling per acre. The 
Americans have introduced into the province a 
practice much more simple and economical, and 
attended with equal success. They cut down 
the trees ; burn them ; and sow between the 
trunks, after having turned up the earth with a 
harrow or hoe. A third method is by setting 
iire to the growing woods, and cutting around 
the bark of the larger trees, to prevent the sap 
from ascending : these dry up during the first 
year, and cease to re -produce their foliage. 
The farmer then sows his grain, and removes at 
leisure the trees that are dead. The cedar and 
spruce trees, whose roots are incorruptible, and 
long resist the ploughshare, it becomes necessary 
to eradicate before the land can be sown. 

An active and intelligent farmer will in the end 
find it more advantageous to take uncleared land, 
z 2 



270 V CANADA.^ 

or that which is half cleared, than to purchase 
such as has been long in cultivation. The latter 
is subject to have been exhausted by the bad 
mode of farming practised in the country. The 
fields are generally laid out with little taste : and 
it is certainly more agreeable for him to arrange, 
after his own plan, his house, his offices, his 
fields, and his avenues. 

In Lower Canada, acquisition of property of 
two kinds may be made ; the one in the depen- 
dence on a seigneur ; the other from government, 
in free and common soccage. Lands of the last 
description are divided into townships^ and each 
township into lots of two hundred acres each, re- 
ceding in depth from the front line. When a per- 
son obtains twelve hundied acres, he pays half 
the expence of the survey, and his proportion of 
fees : and two- sevenths of the land are reserved 
for the disposal of government. 

The borders of the great river, and those of 
most of the rivers which disembogue themselves 
into it, are occupied by seigneuries^ under the 
regulation of the French laws* The lands at the 
disposal of government, part of which are con- 
ceded, lie retired in the depths, between the ri- 
vers Chaudiere, Saint Francis, Yamaska, and 
Chambly, extending to the forty-fifth parallel^ 
and are subject to English rights. 

The usual conditions adopted in letting farms 
are, that the proprietor should furnish the cattle. 



CANADA. 271 

and incur the expence of clearing, of making 
new ditches and fences, and of supplying utensils 
of husbandry. The produce of every descrip- 
tion is afterwards equally divided between him 
and the farmer. The public charges are, a con- 
tribution of labour, or of money, for the repair of 
roacjs and bridges, and the payment of the eccle- 
siastical dime, at a twenty-sixth part on wheat, oats, 
barley, rye, and pease. 

The average produce of the soils in Lower Ca- 
nada may be estimated at fifteen to one for oats ; 
twelve for barley ; six for pease ; and eleven for 
summer wheat. The Canadian farmer general- 
ly allows after wheat, a natural layer, which is 
pastured on by cattle ; and consists of small white 
clover and grass. This mode is highly unecono- 
mical for breeding of these animals. In the fol- 
lowing autumn the land is ploughed, and in the 
spring sown w^ith wheat or oats. 

The twentieth of April is the usual time at 
which the sowing commences in Lower Canada ; 
and the whole of the seed is usually in the ground 
before the fifteenth of May. The season for be- 
ginning the harvest is early in Augusts 

The Canadians have, for several years past, a- 
dopted the practice of British husbandmen, by in- 
troducing manure into their lands, and they are 
now convinced of the utility and profit attending 
that mode of culture. 

A considerable proportion of the lands in Law- 



272 CANABA. 

er Canada is of a light soil : and it is an opinion 
generally received, that these are soon exhausted. 
The rains, which fi\ll heavily upon a mountainous 
country, will more readily carry away a sandy 
than a clayey soil, the particles of which adhere 
more strongly to each other. A soil may become 
impoverished by the loss of those earthy particles 
into u hich the plants which grow upon it are at 
length reduced, and of which it is deprived when 
they are not allowed to decay upon the spot where 
they have been reared. Plants do not take away 
any sensible weight from the soil : and it is the 
moisture with which the earth is watered that is 
the sole cause of vegetation. The soil, it ap- 
pears, is nothing more than a matrix in which the 
germina of plants receive their growth, and which 
they seem only to derive from heat and moisture. 
Water alone may contain all the salts, and all the 
principles that are to concur in producing this 
growth. A light soil is tilled by the most trifling 
labour; and is easily penetrated by rains. But 
a heavy rain will press it together, and thereby 
prevent it from imbibing moisture to any consi= 
derable depth. In this state, if wet weather be 
soon succeeded by sunshine, the humidity is eva- 
porated : and it is deprived of the nourishment 
which it should have otherwise supplied to its 
vegetables. Prejudice then determined the soil 
to be exhausted and ruined. It was abandoned, 
when nothing;^ more was wanting, to j*eward with. 



CANADA,. 273^ 

ample returns the proprietor by whom it was ne- 
glected, than the appUcation of a proper mode of 
agriculture. 

A somewhat less degree of friability constitutes 
what is termed a strong soil, which requires till- 
age of a more laborious nature. But this species 
of land, when once prepared, manured, and water- 
ed, preserves for a much longer time its mois- 
ture, which is a necessary vehicle of the salts, whe- 
ther they be conveyed and successively renewed 
by rains or by artificial watering. Manure sepa- 
rates the soil, and raises it for a time, either by its 
active particles, which, in compact soils, can only 
unfold themselves by degrees, or by its oily par- 
ticles, which fattening land of the former species 
render it capable of retaining, for a longer time, 
the moisture, which its too great laxity, and the 
incoherence of its particles would otherwise soon 
allow to escape. 

Manure, therefore, properly applied, supplies 
in a certain degree, and according to its quality , 
the deficiency of tillage. But no expedient can 
be an equivalent for rain. In America there is 
no rainy season which is not fruitful ; whilst, in 
a dry season, the income diminishes sometimes 
one-half. 

From the position of the settled part of Upper 
Canada, the climate is comparatively mild in win- 
ter, which is there but of short duration, and frc« 
quently without much frost. It sometimes ii> 



274 Canada. 

deed happens, that in the course of that season 
there is h.ardly any snow. Neither Lake Onta- 
rio, Lake Erie, Lake Huron, or Lake Michigan, 
are subject to be frozen at any great distance from 
their coasts. But Lake Superior, from its north- 
erly situation, is usually covered by a solid body 
of ice, for an extent of seventy miles from land. 

To attribute the predominance of cold in Cana- 
da to the multiplicity and extent of its rivers 
and lakes, appears to be an hypothesis not altoge- 
ther correct. The humidity ci the earth, and the 
abundance of water every .where diffused through- 
out its surface, contribute, doubtless, in the 
summer months, to produce a coolness, by the 
evaporation which then takes place, in conse- 
quence of the dry and warm state of the atmo- 
sphere. But, in winter, w hen the degree of cold 
has once attained the freezing point, it can re- 
ceive no augmentation from water ; that element, 
considerably warmer than the part of the atmo- 
sphere to Vi^nich it is contiguous, continues to emit 
warmth until its surface becomes congealed. 

The energy of heat, and that of cohesive at- 
traction, acting in constant opposition to each 
other, enter intimately into every operation, by 
which changes are produced in the properties 
of substances. These mutations of capacities 
seem essentially requisite to the preservation of a 
more equal temperature, than otherwise might 
take place in the elements, of which our bodiej^ 



tANA'BA. 2/5 

form a part, and by which we lire environed. 
The evaporation from water mitigates the solsti- 
tial warmth : and the quantity of heat which es- 
capes previous to the congeiation of that b(3dy, 
restrains the domination of frost ironi attair iig 
that degiee of exacerbation, at which ii might 
otherwise arrive. 

Were the power of cold capable of per\^3ding 
with a velocity equal to that of light, every p^rt 
of an immense body in a liquid sti.te, the consoli- 
dation not progressive, and in a great measure 
superncial, would take immediate effect, when- 
ever the whole could be brought to the tempera- 
ture of thirty-two degrees of Fahrenheit's ther- 
mom.eter. The thawing of mountains of ice and 
and snow, were heat to act in the same manner, 
would with equal rapidity take place. 

The long continuation of frost and snovvs, 
which for a period of near six months in the 3'ear 
prevail in Lower Canada, may be attributed to 
the immense and desert regions which stretch 
towards the north. The snow seldom fails in 
any quantity in that province, unless when the 
wirid blows from the north-east, which is the 
quarter of the mountains of ice. In passing over 
the unfrozen pirts of the sea, the current of cold 
air drives before it the vapours emitted from 
thence, which become immediately converted in- 
to siiow. Whilst the wind continues in that di- 
rection, uiid wiuist the snows are falling, the de- 



27B CANAftA. 

gree of cold is diminished ; but no sooner do^s 
it change its position to the north-west, than the 
cold is considerably augmented. 1 he evaporation 
of the snows contributes much to render so keen 
the winds of the west, and north-west, which, 
previous to their arrival in Lower Canada, tra- 
verse immense countries, and a prodigious chain 
of mountains enveloped in thai fleecy covering. 

The elevation of the earth is not the least im- 
portant cause of the subtilty of the air, and of 
the severity of cold in this part of America ; as 
the regions to the northward probably extend te 
the pole. The winds in Lower Canada general- 
ly proceed from the north-west, or north-east. 
When blowing from the former quarter, they 
pass over a long tract of territory : and the sur- 
face of the earth within the limits of their course, 
becomes deprived of a portion of its heat to miti- 
gate the air. But on continuing to blow in the 
same direction, they will sweep over a surface 
already cooled, and will thence receive no abate- 
ment of their severity. Advancing in this man- 
ner, they produce in their course the intenseness 
of frost. When the winds pass over large collec- 
tions of water, the surface becomes cool, and the 
air proportionably mitigated. The colder water, 
more weighty than that beneath, descends. Its 
place is supplied by that which is warmer : and 
a continued revolution thus takes place, until tlip 



Canada.' 27? 

Mifface becorses solid, and the further develope-^ 
Blent of warmth is restrained* 

The vast and immeasurable forests which over- 
spread the face of Canada, essentially contribute 
to the domination of cold. The leaves and branch- 
es of the trees are thickly intervi^oven with each 
other : and the surface of the ground, particular* 
ly in the northern parts, is covered by shrubs, 
brambles, and the more rank productions of ve» 
getation. Into these gloomy recesses the rays of 
the sun can with difficulty penetrate, and can vi- 
sit them but during a transient portion of the long 
summer's day. The earth overshadowed during 
the prevalence of heat, and covered by snow in 
winter, can emit but a small degree of warmth to 
temper the piercing winds : and the leaves of the 
trees which are exposed to the sun, possess not a 
Sufficient quantity of matter to imbibe, or to re- 
fain the effect of his rays. The winds, in passing 
over these forests, can therefore undergo but lit- 
tie alteration in their temperature. 1 he snows 
are there retained in the spring, to a much later pe- 
riod than on the cleared grounds, and tend to the 
prolongation of cold. 

The clearing and cultivation of lands have much 
contributed to the amelioration of the climate of 
Canada : and the number of fires kept up in the 
habitations in different parts of the country, may 
Ekewise have a share in producing this change, 
A A 



278 CANADA^ 

Certain however it is, that the winters in those 
parts of Lower Canada, in the vicniity of Que- 
bec, have remitted several degrees of their former 
severity. An intelligent priest in the island of 
Orleans, kept for half a century,, a correct meteor- 
ological table: and his successor continued it 
for eight years longer. The result of their obser- 
vations tended to prove, that the medium of cold 
in winter had diminished eight degrees withia 
that period. 

The mercury in the thermometer sometimes 
descends in winter to the thirty-sixth degree be- 
low zero in Fahrenheit's scale. But the atmo- 
sphere rarely continues long in that dry and in- 
tense state. 

The river Saint Lawrence is seldom frozen so 
fer down its course as Quebec, although immense 
bodies of ice crowding upon each other, continue 
to float up and down with the tides. The win- 
ter of 11 9 \) was the last in which what is called 
the Pont was formed, and when carriages passed 
across the ice from Quebec to Point Levi. The 
ice in these regions is of a much harder nature 
than that of climates less subject to the influence 
of severe frost. It contains more air and its con- 
texture is much stronger, from the great degree 
of cold by which it is congealed. Being sudden- 
ly formed, it is less transparent, as well as harder, 
than that which is more tardy in its formation* 



CAJ^ADA. 279 

Although the congelation of water be rapid in its 
process, a considerable time is required for its so- 
lution when congealed. If ice, formed in the 
space of six minutes, be placed in such air as has 
acquired the temperature of forty-five degrees of 
Fahrenheit, it will be some hours in resuming its 
fluidity. In weather perfectly calm, water will 
frequently acquire a degree of cold beyond what 
is sufficient for its congelation, without any 
change in its liquid state. But if a breeze ruffle 
its surface, it becomes immediately solid. 

The ice on the rivers in Canada, acquires a 
thickness of two feet and upwards ; and is capa- 
ble of supporting any degree of weight. That 
on the borders of the Saint Lawrence, called the 
iordage, sometimes exceeds six feet. The ice 
on the centre of the stream, where it is frozen 
over, is the thinnest part, occasioned probably by 
the convexity of the river. In great bodies 
of water which run with rapidity, the centre 
is higher frequently by some feet than the sur- 
face towards either of the shores. 

Horses and carriages are driven with great ra- 
pidity along the ice : and an accident seldom hap- 
pens, except sometimes towards the spring, when 
it becomes rotten and insecure. 

The accumulation of snow in the woods, where 
it is not subject to be drifted by the winds, is u- 
suaiiy six or seven feet in depth about the end of 



26G CAJSTABAo 

Februan^, Mheu it has attained its greatest quan- 
tity. The iniiaence of the sun, after that period, 
gradually consumes it, although fresh supplies 
continue at intervals to fall, sometimes for six 
weeks after that period. The relative proportion 
of the snow to water, may be ascertained by means 
of a long cylinder closed at one end, and immer- 
sed until it reach the surface of the ground. It 
will thus contain a column of snow equal to the 
depth that has fallen ; and on its being dissolved, 
will shew the quantity of water to which it is equal. 
The mode of travelling in winter is no less ra- 
pid than convenient. A vehicle, called a cartole^ 
is drawn by one or two horses, which are harness- 
ed in the same manner as for any other carriage. 
The body of the more fashionable kind is like that 
of a curricle, and is fixed upon a sleigh shod Vvdth 
iron. It has an apron of bear-skin or leather : 
and within it is placed a bulililo-skin, called a 
robe, with which the legs and feet are kept warm. 
A person may thus travel, or drive about for his 
pleasure, vrithout much inconvenience from cold, 
particularly if he employ a servant to drive the 
horses. In bad weather, sleighs with tops or co- 
vers made of leather, are in use. When the roads 
are level and good, the draft of one of those car^ 
riages is very little fatiguing for a horse ; as a 
small degree of impulse is then required to retain 
it in rapid motion. 



CANADA. 281 

After a heavy fliU of snow, the loaded sleighs 
t^hich pass along in the vicinity of the towns, al- 
ternately take up in their front, and deposit a 
quantity of snow, and thus form in the roads fur- 
rows and ridsj^es in a transverse position, which 
are called cahofs. Until these are filled up, tra% 
veiling becomes fatiguing and unpleasant. 

There is scarcely a habitant in Lower Canada 
who possesses not one or two sleighs : and much 
time is consumed during the winter season in 
driving from one place to another. The horses 
are of the Norman breed, and are rather small, 
but stout, hardy, fleet and well calculated for draft. 
>fotwithstanding the little care that is bestowed 
on them, and the ill treatment which many of 
them experience, they in general possess their 
strength to a great age* 

The houses are kept warm in winter by means 
of cast metal-stoves, in which wood is burnt, and 
which, through pipes formed of sheet-iron, com- 
municate an equable portion of heat to every part 
of a chamber. By this mode, and by the precau- 
tions which are taken on the part of the inhabi- 
tants, in wearing suitable clothing when they ex- 
pose themselves to the air, the severity of the cli- 
mate is but little felt or regarded. 

The dry cold, by contracting the pores of the 
skin, seems in some degree to present a reme-» 
dy for its own intenseuessj and to counteract those 



282 CANAPA, 

impressions, of which the human frame would 
oihcrwise become more susceptible, and be per- 
haps unequal to sustain. 

I'he French language, which is that of ^e in- 
habitants of Lower Canada, is spoken without 
any provincial accent. The proceedings of the 
legislature, and also those of the courts of law^ 
are both in the English and French tongues* 



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